A sea taxi and a tramp...and other adventures on the South Island

Back on the South Island for our last ten days in NZ, we headed straight to Abel Tasman National Park. Famous for secluded coves and spectacular sea views, most parts of the park can only be reached from the sea or on
foot. We booked a sea taxi to take us to Torrent Bay, for a tramp along the
cliffs to Bark Bay. The taxi turned out to be a small speed boat, which whisked us along for a very bumpy bum-pummelling twenty minutes and dropped us, not on the beach, but several metres from it, leaving us to wade the last bit as it disappeared into the distance. After tramping around in a circle for twenty minutes looking for the only toilet in the bay (a hole in a hut), we set off on a very lovely three hour walk through the forest that perches on the cliff top, stopping at various intervals to enjoy the views over the bays and the sea below. The sun shone down through the trees and shafts of light danced over the path as we made our way to our pick up point where we waded back out to the taxi and climbed in for the journey home. Back in town we were towed out of the water and pulled up the road to our campsite by a tractor - now that's service!

Our next adventure on the South Island took place in Fox Glacier, a town half way down the west coast (as in Fox Glacier mints). We stopped at Punakaki on the way to see the famous pancake rocks and were delighted to spot some dolphins frolicking off the coast, which was an added bonus! Arriving in Fox, we wasted no time in booking our place on a glacier hike - the reason tourists flock here in the summer. Fortunately, as we arrived off season, the town was pretty peaceful, and we propped up the bar that night with only a few locals for company. The next morning we set off nervously with about twenty other adventurous sightseers, on a small bus to the base of the glacier. It loomed above us, a harsh, craggy face of ice, filling the valley between two mountains and we felt a little daunted! Kitted out with boots, waterproof trousers, warm socks and crampons, we were led by our guide across and up, across and up, zig zagging over the ice to find the safest path up the glacier. We followed him closely in single file, pausing now and then so that he could hack foot holds for us with his pick axe. All this was pretty tough going and, when we stopped for lunch, we got very cold very quickly (best to keep moving!). But it was all worth it to experience the vast peace and fragility of such a wilderness, to feel like you are standing, almost alone, on top of the world, and to be reminded that mother nature holds all the cards. It was something we will remember for a long time and something that most people will never have a chance to do (only three accesible glaciers exist in the world). We felt very lucky - to see it and to get back down in one piece! (An avalanche on the neighbouring Franz Joseph Glacier the day before meant the glacier (including all hikers) had to be evacuated by helicopter).

Lake Matheson, a short drive from Fox Glacier, was to put the icing on the cake of our alpine experience. It was such a beautiful spot, we went twice in two days, taking the one hour track around the lake and eating in the very good coffee shop on the access road. The reflection of Mount Cook in the lake is an absolute beauty on a perfectly clear day. Unfortunately we didn't have the right conditions either day. But the reflections of the surrounding mountains and pine forests in the misty, rippling lake, still took our breath away! The west side of the South Island surely is up there as one of the most scenic places in the world.

Having loved Fox Glacier, we drove south towards Queenstown, preparing ourselves for a bit of an anti climax. We feared the 'thrill seekers' capital of the world' would be full of young, loud, obnoxious gap yah students, busy bungee jumping and boozing in bars teeming with tourists. We were pleasantly surprised! The mountains are reflected in the lake, the gondola trundles silently up the hill and paragliders drift over town peacefully. Despite the endless ways to spend 300 bucks jumping from a plane/off a mountain/into a river, there's a friendly, 'everyone's welcome' atmosphere that is infectious. So much so, Neil decided that when in Rome..... jump off a mountain with a complete stranger, strapped to a large kite. (He went hang gliding!). We stayed in nearby Arrowtown, an adorably quaint old mining village, complete with cosy pubs, little boutiques and galleries. After a bottle of wine and the Wales vs France match, we joined the locals who were dancing the night away to a live band in the little hotel in the centre of the village - our kind of party!

Our final stop on the South Island was at Doubtful Sound in Fiordland. The guide books wax lyrical about Doubtful, so we were looking forward to floating along the tranquil waterways between looming mountains and hills, populated only by penguins, seals and dolphins. We decided to take a day cruise on Doubtful Sound as opposed to the more famous Milford Sound because we were reliably informed that it was larger, deeper and less busy. Unfortunately, the rain and mist didn't make for great viewing conditions, but initial thoughts of being unlucky with the weather were dispersed by the guides who advised that it rains on two of every three days on the Sounds. Although we did see most of what was promised, we couldn't help feeling underwhelmed by Doubtful Sound. The scenery is impressive and it is one of the quietest places on earth. But unfortunately, we were on a chugging ferry accompanied by tens of fellow tourists all trying to brave the elements to get a peek at penguins/seals in the far distance. We were glad we went, but it didn't quite live up to our expectations. Hey ho, you can't win them all!

Overall, we had an amazing time in New Zealand. The scenery alone makes it a worthy destination on any travaller's itinerary, but there is so much more besides. The people, the food, the culture and the wildlife all impressed us immeasurably and made for a fabulous trip. So long New Zealand - thanks for the memories!

Joss and Neil