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I arrived in Darwin on the 4th of May after a very long 28 hour bus journey from Broome. I was disapointed not to be able to tour the Kimberly's but the trip was very expensive and really the easiest way to see the region without your own 4x4. I did catch a glimpse of them from the bus and they did look very beautiful indeed. Darwin itself is much bigger than Broome but still tiny in comparison to Perth. There is a much larger backpacker community which made a nice change and some proper shops too! Having arrived late on the 4th i caught up with friends from Perth and then the following day some of my group from the Perth to Broome trip who had already arrived in Darwin. The 6th i explored Darwin a little to find a pretty little harbour and a small park on the edge of the town itself. There were some lovely aborigional shops to look around with very detailed and unique pieces.
On the morning of the 7th i set off on a tour around Kakadu National Park. The first day we actually spent in Litchfield National Park. Here we spent time exploring the pretty waterfalls of the park before heading to Mary River Wetlands. Unfortunetly we weren't here just to look at the many birds living here.....Down by the riverside was out riverboat for a cruise looking for crocodiles. I nervously boarded the boat hoping we wouldn't really find any! Within minutes we saw our first crocodile. The driver happily drove the boat right upto the bank so we could get a close look. 2 types of crocodiles inhabit the water, freshwater and saltwater. The freshwater crocodiles are usually smaller and have long, thin mouths whereas the saltwater are the big scary ones with giant mouths and huge teeth. We were lucky enough to see both kinds and by the middle of the trip i was feeling a little more comfortable. However i was made to jump several times as the crocodiles hurridly scuttles into the water as we drove closer to shore. Nearly back on land and a huge salt water croc began to circle our boat - much to by horror! The driver was thrilled poining him out and showing us how quickly he could move. I on the otherhand was hoping he wasn't going to jump on the boat and was desparately looking forward to being back on dry land! Finally off the boat and we drove to our camping spot for the night at a place called Stuart Point, just outside Kakadu.
Day 2 and we head to Mamukala wetlands. Here we learnt about the different seasons in the Territory and how they affect the wetlands and the different birds you see throughout the year. Next we had a quick stop at the Bowali Visitor Centre, the hub of the National Park. Excited we now drive off to fully explore Kakadu. First stop is Nourlangie which features a walk that takes you past ancient Aboriginal shelter and several art sites. A walk to Gun-Warddehwardde provided an impressive view of Kakadu's escarpment and Nourlangie itself. We were also able to see across to Arnhem Land, another Aborgional area. To see where the Aboriginals lived was staggaring really and very hard to imagine how people lived this way for so long. There "living rooms" were simply flat rocks underneath an overhang which could provide shade but also shelter from the rain. Surrounding this would be art work telling stories or giving thanks or memory for something significant. Art works were often painted over however as the artwork itself was not important, it was the significance of the drawing and its meaning that was important. After a quick stop back at camp, Jabiru tonight we headed to Ubirr, possibly my favourite place in Kakadu. Another Aboriginal Site, we saw again lots of artwork and heard many stories from these. We as tourists will never know the full meaning or detail of these stories. You must be part of the Aboriginal community, earn the right or be inniciated to hear the full meaning behind many stories. This is to keep them sacred. A walk through the galleries and living accommodation lead to a climb to the stop of Ubirr and a look out across the land. It was so beautiful. We arrived in time for sunset and the changing colours of the sky with the hills in the backgound and the Nardab Floodplain in the foreground was just breathtaking. I could have happily sat there for hours. The Floodplain below was actually the setting for the Crocodile Dundee Films.
Day 3 and we were lucky enough to find the Jim Jim Falls had opened that day for the season. During the wet season some of the most favous falls, including Jim Jim are closed to the public. This is due to the high waters rising which enables saltwater crocodiles to move around the lands and often into the water at the bottom of the falls. As the water begin to subside, rangers carry out what is known as crocodile management. Here they use several techniques to search for crocodiles in the water. These include putting pig legs on rope inside the water and checking the teeth marks left by any crocodiles. Just by the teeth marks left rangers can identify the size of the croc and make and set an appropriate trap to catch the croc and then move them into areas the public do not go to. Other techniques involve shining a light into the water at night and looking for the red glow of their eyes looking back at them. Once the rangers have carried out the management and believe there are no more saltwater crocs there (freshwater ones may still be there but they do not harm humans unless they are disturbed or angered by poking them, pulling their tail etc) they will reopen the falls. So lucky for us Jim Jim opened that day. The journey to the fall itself involve a 60km track of rocks, sand and water holes, so a brilliant 4x4 track to go along and even better to view it as i was sat right in the front of the truck. Once we arrived we had about 1km walk along rocks until we reached a small sandy beach benethe the falls. The water was not flowing as much as it would due us now moving into the Dry season but it was still very impressive and very beautiful. Definitely glad we didn't miss this. After a morning spent swimming at the falls and exploring the surroundings we drove back to Darwin to arrive early evening.
The following morning (10th) i took a bus down towards Alice Springs. On the way we stopped off at various points, firstly Eidth Falls, just outside of Katherine. One of the most beautiful spots i've been to in Australia. A stunning wide waterfalls into two big pools and a small waterfall towards the other end. Climbing to the top of the waterfall we discovered another smaller waterfall and two more plunge pools. Smooth rocks sat opposite the falls, so comfortable to lye down on and just listen to the sound of the water crashing over the rocks and into the water below. Very peaceful. Next we stopped in at a cultural centre and got to meet a couple of Aboriginals. Here we were also given the opportunity to watch how Aboriginal art is created and try to create our own (mine was rubbish). Tonight we camped just outside of Katherine Gorge. A very early rise this morning gave us the chance to head to Katherine Gorge for sunrise. The Gorge itself is closed for swimming and canoeing at the moment, again due to crocodiles. The Gorge is made up of 13 differnt gorges, each separated by rocks. During the wet season the waters rise above these, allowing for the movement of crocodiles between the Gorges. We climbed to a lookout above Katherine Gorge itself and watched the sun rise. The Gorge was pretty but not as beautiful as i was expecting after hearing so many wonderful things about it. I would have liked to have explore the area a little more but unfortunetly we weren't able to do so. A bit of a drive until our next stop, Bitter Springs. A gorgeous little stream of very warm water surrounding by lilly pads and lush tropical forest. Within the stream there ran a very gentle current which meant you could just lye back in the water and slowly float downsteam taking in the beautiful senery. Our final stop of the day was Daly Waters. The oldest town in the territory and now famous for it's pub. I was extreamly excited to be here as 2 friends i met on the start of my East Coast trip were now working here and so we managed to have a quick catch up before moving on to Tennent Creek where we spent the night. Our final day and with just one stop at the Devils Marbles. A lot bigger than i was expecting the marbles stretched for miles it seemed across the land. I was expecting just one or two boulders. They were stunning really, and so very random. Literally there is nothing else around but these striking very round, very red boulders. The Aboriginals belive that one of the creation ancesters, the Rainbow Serpant left her eggs here, which are known to us as the Devils Marbles. A very long drive and we finally arrived in Alice Springs early evening. I have spent today (13th) exploring Alice before i leave for a tour around Kings Canyon and Uluru tomorrow. Alice itself is very small with not a lot to do really but for some reason i actually really like it. It's very quiet and cosey and the hostel i'm staying at is very chilled out and i've been able to catch up on some sleep and just chill out which has been lovely. The temperature is much cooler here however which means i'm back in jeans, jumpers and shoes, a big change indeed but something i must get used to for the comming months in New Zealand. It's so very cold at night though, below freezing so last night i was bundled in sheets, jumpers and 2 douvets, however will i cope back in England!- comments