Campspot right on the road meant waking up a fair bit with passing lorries in the night. Woke up to a frozen tent and bike. No matches meant no hot dinner and no tea! Overnight oats worked well though! Tried to wake up and pack up early, spent ages trying to scrape ice off the tent. Just as I was trying to leave farmer turned up to fill some Jerry cans with water. I hid in the bush for a bit but decided just to confidently walk out. He didn’t say anything! Q...

Utterly freezing leaving Agoudal, wish I had checked the temperature. Must have been at least -5, colder with the wind chill. Had to stop and put my ran on. Arrived in Imilchil at 11ish, just starting to warm up. Bustling town. Too early for lunch though. Grabbed a few supplies and pushed on looking forward to a day of descending. One massive steep drop then fairly flat descent with an annoying head wind. Made such a nice change to see green trees on the northern...

Another chilly start. Livid with the soot coming off the trangia. White spirit is not the right stuff!! Kept stopping to add layers. First outing for the gloves and coat. Stopped for snacks in M’semrir. Hoped to stop for lunch before the enormous climb but everywhere closed. Last chance was the cool looking backpackers gite at the foot of the climb. Car there but door locked. Up the climb I went. Popped the Swiss gel, didn’t do much! Had to stop and break o...

I was looking forward to the ‘buffet’ breakfast at the hotel. It was terrible. Good WiFi though so caught up on 6 nations highlights. Asked around in about 5 hardware shops for alcohol, eventually found white spirit. Amazing! Stopped at a modern looking motorbike workshop, asked for some lubricant, he gave my chain a good spray, no more squeaky jockey wheels! Not much climbing today, fairly boring main road, made good time so early lunch stop in Scoura. M...

Frosty morning when I woke up on the dry river bed, nice sunrise over the mountains. Earliest departure yet despite tailpack faff. Took wrong turn and cams off dirt track back onto main road. Nice and fast. I’d ridden further than planned the day before so would Make ouzarett in good time so I wanted to ride on some dirt roads. Tried to cut across on some tracks back to the old dirt road. Ended up walking for 20 mins along dry river bed, then clambering throu...