We headed up to Gdansk from Krakow. It had got positive reviews in the guide books we'd read, and sounded really interesting on account of the city's key part in Poland's not that distant struggle against Soviet imposed communism, another piece of the 20th century Eastern European jigsaw we've gradually been putting together. Also, I really fancied seeing the sea again after an absence of a few weeks, since we left Croatia. Upon arrival it transpired that, althou...

Poland is brilliant! I love it here, Poland and I just gel, and despite having visited the country for a couple of weeks before, in 2003, I was by no means looking forward to coming here less than any of the previously unchartered territories we've passed through. Without being able to put my finger on a common thread, Poland continues to provide a stream of positive experiences for me. Spent our first afternoon in Krakow in a small, cosy, coffee and cake-selling...

A quick day and a half in Bratislava on the way through to Poland and beyond, and also two nights at our favourite hostel to date, Hostel Possonium, which despite being decorated to the theme of the film "Hostel", about backpackers who get kidnapped and tortured by wealthy, mentally deranged businessmen, was not scary at all and is our new number one by virtue of its cosy cellar bar, great music, friendly and funny staff and hotel-like facilities. The ...

Alex Burman and Mike Gurney are heroes! Thanks to these highly gifted, generous individuals I now have my mobile phone back, complete with full compliment of contacts (although thanks to both of you who kindly emailed me your numbers when I thought I'd lost it), a bank card that will grant me access to a previously unaccessible yet fairly healthy and therefore very useful bank account, and this morning Paula and I each enjoyed a belly warming, tastebud massaging ...

Transylvania, birthplace of Dracula, home to quaint medieval villages, spectacular mountains, dark, densely wooded forests of bears and wolves! So, we were really looking forward to coming here, probably more than anywhere else on our European leg, but alas it turned out a bit rubbish. Day one, much to the amazement of our hostel hosts, with the sun shining on the unexplored town of Brasov outside, we stayed in the hostel virtually all day. Brilliant day, actu...