Our first impression of Laos: as our boat pulled up onto the small landing beach at the tip of Don Det, one of Si Phan Don (translation: four thousand islands), jostling for position to sell us food, transport and accommodation was... absolutely no-one! Incredible! For the first time since we were in central China, so including Yangshuo in southern China, seven weeks of Vietnam and three weeks of Cambodia, there wasn't a single person waiting to hassle us into bu...