We spent a sizeable portion of our penultimate day in Korea at the magnificent War Memorial Museum. We spent hours reading about the Korean War and browsing various exhibits and watching short video clips. I even chatted with one of the many soldiers who were looking round. We were thoroughly absorbed in the fascinating history and came away feeling moved sad by the division of a country and its people, the awesome coalition of UN forces against the might of Nor...

This afternoon we saw FC Seoul. This was an altogether different experience from watching footy in England. Before the match the area around the ground was like a fair: a band was playing, there were loads of games to play, kids were hula-hooping, loads of souvenir stalls... At the match an mc orchestrated the crowd's chanting, which was never anything other than pleasant. The cheerleaders occasionally diverted people's attention away from the on-field action! ...

We are now enjoying the very modern and exciting city of Seoul. I'm not too sure what sights, if any, we'll see but we definitely plan to do some shopping to replace our badly depleted wardrobes! Currently staying with Zach, an American guy teaching English here. He's got a small place with a lovely dog. They're both very nice but it's a bit cramped and full of dog hairs so we'll probably check into a hostel in a day or two. Already had quite a few Korean dishe...