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We flew into Laos instead of taking the popular two day slow boat trip down the Mekong because the mighty Mekong had low levels and we didn't want to take three extra days (one by bus across part of Thailand) to travel into Laos. Laos is an intriguing country because it is one of the least developed countries, and is one of the few communist countries in the world. Laos was also bombed more than Vietnam during the Vietnam War, and still has many unexploded bombs that kill farmers every year.
Flying into Luang Prabang made the entire place look like a big village rather than a city. We found our guesthouse and settled in. Laos was also in the middle of their new year, Songkran, just like Thailand. That meant that we would be getting doused with water and worse over the next few days as we walked along the streets. That first night we had dinner along the Mekong River and tried some local seaweed, buffalo stew, and the only beer they drink in the country, Beer Lao. On the way back to our guesthouse we took a different route and found their amazing night market. One of the best markets around; they sold locally made clothing and products. We also had our first black out since electricity often comes and goes in Laos.
The next day we checked out some local sites all within short walking distance. This wasn't easy because Songkran was in full force this day. Every fifty yards there was a group of young Lao people that were drinking, dancing, and soaking anybody who would cross their path. Most times you could see the inevitable coming but other times you just felt the gallons of cold water thrown in your face - sweet, thanks guys. We saw the royal palace that had been turned into a museum, and a famous wat, or temple, which were all along the Mekong. On the way back we stopped to eat at an Indian restaurant that was on a quiet street away from the water works. As we finished eating, there was a non-stop procession of water armed pick-up trucks that had been directed down this narrow street for some reason. Trucks battled each other and the children that were on the street with water hoses and buckets of water. The unique thing about Laos is that they also used white talcum powder and some black wax as part of the celebration. There was no escape. As friendly as they could do it, someone jumped out of the truck and threw powder on us or smeared black stuff on our faces - sweet, thanks guys. It was all in fun and celebration so it was hard to get mad.
The next day we went to Kuang Si Waterfalls after an English couple told us we had to. Since it was a national holiday, there were thousands of Lao people there having picnics and swimming. It was an amazing waterfall park with many different swimming pools, and a large waterfall at the very top.We climbed to the very top, and enjoyed the scenery before finding a small pool towards the bottom where we could swim. On the way home as usual, Songkran celebrators threw buckets of water into our tuk tuk and smeared our faces with the black wax.
That same afternoon we decided to take a boat onto the Mekong for a sunset stroll. For a few bucks, we had the boat all to ourselves. The driver slowly made his way along the river as the sun slowly dropped. It was quiet and relaxing, and we could observe how dozens of people used the river to bathe themselves, wash their clothes, and cool off from the heat of the day. On the walk home we found a jar of drinking alcohol full of strange creatures like snakes, millipedes, and some other thing we couldn't even identify. I (Joey) went from sober to buzzed in minutes, and stayed like that for hours. It was definitely one of the most potent things I've had.
The next day we took a packed mini bus from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng, which took about 5-6 hours. The drive went through Lao countryside that was made up of mountainous terrain. The drive was slow but the landscape was stunning, and gave a glimpse at Lao village life. Wood, bamboo, and palm leaves remain the primary building materials for people in these villages that cling to the mountainside. We got to Vang Vieng in the mid afternoon but didn't want to stay there; we wanted to keep moving to the capital Vientiane. The only available transportation at that time was a song teow, a covered pick-up truck with benches in the back. We have taken these before because they are cheap, but never for long distances-Vientiane is three hours away. Except for the occasional cold water bucket (yes, Songkran is still going), the ride wasn't as bad as expected because we had room to move, got fresh air, and I was even able to hang out and stand on the back of the truck for a while. We finally reached our hotel in the country's capital, Vientiane, at night after a long and dirty day of traveling down Laos. Our hotel guys were so drunk from celebrating the final day of Songkran they barely knew how to check us in.
Vientiane is supposed to be the sleepiest capital in the world, and it seemed so. We took the next three days to rest and recover from Songkran and long bus trips. The only thing we did in this place was enjoy some good food, and went to Buddha Park by local bus, which is always an adventure. The park was full of stone statues that were really odd and really cool. They looked more Hindu than Buddhist (although our guide in India told us that Buddhism is derived from Hinduism, so….). We relaxed up until our final day when we caught our 2:30 flight to Hanoi, Vietnam.
We had high hopes for Laos and we weren't disappointed. We only spent a week there but it was clear to see why travelers love going there. It's a very beautiful and relaxing place to visit, as life resembles the tranquil waters of the Mekong.
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