Due to the fact that I spent an extra half day in Kyoto, I arrived at Nagano later on that I had hoped. And then I still had a 40 minute train ride to Yudanaka - out in the Japanese Alps. I had also failed to take in to account the infrequent nature of trains to these smaller towns, having grown accustomed to the abundance and regularity of transport in the cities of Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto. When I finally arrived in Yudanaka, the very last stop on the Nagano Dentetsu line, it felt a little eery and as if I was out in the back and beyond.

When I arrived at my hotel for the next four nights - Shimaya Ryokan - my mind was put straight at ease mostly thanks to the warm welcome that I received from the owner, who I had already heard great reviews about from several online hostel review sites. The owner showed me to my room, which looked and felt more like a suite and was already being warmed up with a portable heater and electric blanket! Such simple luxury after the hostels I have been staying in so far.

The owner also suggested I use the Ryokan's own hot spring bath (onsen) before going to sleep. He explained that the hotel was not busy today so I could take a private bath, whereas there were lots more people due the very next day. I took his advice, slipped in to the Japanese dressing gown hanging up in my wardrobe and went down for a private bath and then retired to my room where I slept like a baby.

In the morning, the Ryokan's owner drove me to the Monkey Park. Set in a National Park, Jigukudani Wild Monkey Park is home to around 200 Japanese Macaques (also known as snow monkeys, but no snow was present the day I visited), who have become world famous for their hot spring bathing habits. They are also the only known breed of monkey to live in a cold climate. The park was absolutely amazing. I had no idea just how close you would be able to get to the monkeys, who seem totally uninterested in humans (since you are not allowed to feed or touch the monkeys they have no relationship with human beings). I watched them for ages, particularly the youngsters who, it seemed, were constantly looking for trouble!

I got back to the Ryokan early afternoon, and took a little nap. It was really nice to have a change of pace and a chance to relax, as I have been pretty much on the go, constantly walking and sight seeing since I arrived in Japan. Although Yumoto-San didn't really understand, and kept asking what my schedule for the day was!!

In the afternoon, Yumoto-San (the Ryokan's owner - a stereotypical-looking, short, Japanese man with thick lens glasses) drove me to a nearby outdoor onsen - and thus more nudity ensued. It had just begun to snow as I arrived at the onsen, and yet whilst bathing in the hot water, you are blissfully unaware of that fact and you can begin to understand why the Japanese monkeys favour a dip once the temperatures plummet.

Yumoto-San had suggested I visit the onsen at 4.30pm to watch the sunset. And again his recommendation was spot on! The beautiful mountainous backdrop was quite simply breathtaking and hard to describe without seeing it for yourself. Obviously no photography is permitted due to the nudity I mentioned earlier.

For dinner, I went to a nearby noodle restaurant, again on the recommendations of Yumoto-San. And again he was not wrong! When I came to leave, the restauranteurs gave me a small gift, which was a painted block of wood featuring the snow monkeys. In return I gave them a Bournemouth postcard and when I explained it was from England, the girl exclaimed "Harry Potter!" and then laughed, and thanked me for the gift. Yumoto-San had dropped me off at the restaurant, but I had to walk back to the hostel (the only problem being that I didn't really know the way). After I had this exchange with the restauranteurs, I asked for some directions, and the young waitress kindly offered to walk me back to the Ryokan.

The next day I woke at half 7 for an 8 o'clock breakfast. I opted for the Japanese style breakfast as I wanted to give it a try - and whilst not everything was to my tastes on the whole it was pretty good, and I tried absolutely everything! In the background was piano music, and as I looked to find where it was coming from there was a self-playing piano in the corner of the breakfast room. I have loved these funny little touches throughout my time in Japan.

After breakfast, following the Ryokan owner's recommendations again, I headed to Obuse (pronounced oh-boo-say) about 40 minutes from Yudanaka. The town is famed, here in Japan at least, for its chestnuts, fruit-growing, and art. Despite the rainy forecast, the sun was shining and so I walked from the station to the Ganshoin temple. The route to the temple was lined with fruit trees, and tourist hotspots, such as a glass blowing workshop and gallery. On arriving at the temple, local fruit growers had set up stalls and I purchased some grapes (which incidentally are the size of our plums!) and a bottle of apple juice - the most delicious juice I have EVER tasted. I am told that the soil here in Obuse is very acidic, making for perfect fruit growing conditions and particularly sweet apples.

I then made my way to Hokusai Museum via a floral garden, lots of chestnut-flavoured food produce stores and souvenir shops, and some other temples and shrines (you seem to fall over them here in Japan). En route I samples some of the chestnut products, some of which were the most bizarre things I have ever tried, but at least I can say I have been very adventurous with food these past couple of weeks.

For lunch, a famous restaurant, serving chestnut rice had been recommended to me, but I was advised to be there by 11.30am in order to get a table. By this time, there was already a queue nearly out of the door. So I gave up on that idea and found a distinctly average udon noodle restaurant.

Overall, Obuse was a little disappointing for me. I had already been forewarned that the 23rd November is a Japanese holiday and therefore everywhere would be busy over this weekend, but it made for a less enjoyable experience in the over crowded town.

On Monday I made my way to Matsumoto via a quick stop off in Nagano. I was really pleased that I did venture in to Nagano, ignoring other people's negative reviews of the place as I thought it had a nice feel about it. Perhaps I was lucky as it was a Japanese holiday and the sun was warm and bright, probably bringing out more people than usual. I walked straight to the Zenkoji temple, where I was lucky enough to see lots of children dressed in beautiful traditional garments ready for a ceremony at the temple. It seems that wherever I have gone in Japan I have stumbled upon something unexpected but altogether making for an incredible experience.

Still in Nagano, I mooched around some of the shops, laughed at their persistent reminders that they were the Winter Olympic hosts back in 1998 ("OK, get over it!"), and tried a mushroom and vegetable dumpling (okinami), which was tasty, but had an unusual sticky texture and so clung to the roof of my mouth.

I didn't spend too long in Matsumoto, as I had already decided the things that I wanted to see before I got there and so quickly set about viewing them before sunset. I went to Matsumoto Castle (the main tourist spot here), a former Kaichi school and a couple of locally-famous department stores. Then I headed back to Yudanaka on the tediously long local train, repacked my bag ready to go back to Tokyo and then catch my flight on to Perth.