Hello!

Apologies for not updating for a while, but we are touring around Coromandel, a night in each place and have found that Internet access here is both expensive and slow! Anyway, I've uploaded a selection of photos from the first part of this mini tour and will write a brief blog and once we are settled somewhere again I'll probably add a little more of each. (Updated 21 & 22 June)

Coromandel - what an amazing place! And what a fantastic time to visit - it is the beginning of the New Zealand winter and Coromandel is almost deserted, we have had beautiful white sandy beaches and backpackers all to ourselves, or had to share them with a handful of others. We've been pottering around, moving on each day in trusty Shadowfax and admiring the outstanding views, and once again we've been accompanied by lots of birds of prey at the side of the road, and an unbelievable amount of kingfishers - they line up on the wires like bee-eaters!

Anyway, a brief overview of our travels:

We started at the Karangahake Gorge, originally a gold mining area at the base of Coromandel where we stayed for one night at the delightful homely Golden Owl Backpackers. During our stay we had a couple of walks around the gorge, one track which took us through an old railway bridge, 1 kilometre long, cut into the mountain which was freezing cold and rather dark in places, and a second walk that took us up along an old rail track where gold was extracted - again a torch was needed but the views were amazing. The stay was topped off wonderfully by our host, Judy, who took us plus her other lodger, Hella, back into the railway tunnel at night which was lit up by glowworms - it was so, so magical. And the next morning the sun came out properly so we popped back to the gorge to take a few more photos, as it looked even more spectacular in the sun.

Then we moved onto Whangamata, a surf town further up the coast where we stayed in a backpackers that we couldn't wait to get out of - we both felt it was haunted, it was so creepy. But the real winner here was the beach, a beautiful long white sandy beach with Pacific waves rolling in, which swept around into a gorgeous little harbour. We spent a lovely relaxing day just chilling, appreciating the amazing scenery and even allowing ourselves a little doze on the beach!

Before we moved on the next morning, poor old Su had to take a trip to the Doctors as her cough hadn't improved since the packhouse, and it turned out she had developed asthma plus had an infection in one of her throat glands (apologies, the ex-nurse isn't sitting next to me right now so I don't know the correct term...) Anyway, full of medication we moved on to Opoutere, just up the coast where we were hoping to spend the night in a backpackers close to a beach reserve where rare NZ Dotterel nest and glowworms line the paths at night. Sadly when we pulled up we found that the delightful little backpackers was closed for the winter, but we were lucky as the caretaker was there doing some work and he let us into his grounds where there was a beautiful little bush walk full of birds, including our first sighting of kaka, wild parrots. We had a stroll and were so sad that we couldn't stay longer as it was such a peaceful place with a very spiritual feel to it, and full of birds and intense greenery, absolutely beautiful. Anyway, we moved on up the coast to Tairua where we bedded down for the night, the only people in a cosy little lodge, and we settled into a comfortable chair, blankets over us, heaters on, hot chocolate with marshmallows in our hands, and watched the second Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers - it was the perfect evening for us!

Before we moved on the next day we went over to Mount Paku, an extinct volcano which we looked over while having breakfast at our backpackers (where we were joined by some beautiful and highly coloured parakeets). We climbed (actually drove!!!) to the top and had a wonderful 360 view over the area - deep blue sea full of tiny islets, wonderful deserted white sandy beaches, and the interior of Coromandel, a backbone of mountains and forests. And then we sped off to Hahei, a highlight of our tour (well until this morning!) Hahei has the most perfect beach, stunning white sand fringed with coastal bush, again almost deserted, and from there we walked to Cathedral Cove. Now, this is one of THE tourist spots to visit on Coromandel, and we were wondering if it wasn't just a little over-hyped, as so much of it is beautiful and much less crowded. But you know what, it wasn't. The walk to the cove alone was amazing, full of coastal bush and a different stunning view at every corner, and then you reach the cove, and even though it had more people than any other place we've visited (still not that many), it didn't detract from the beauty of the place; white sandy beach, deep blue sea and sky, coastal bush hanging over the cliffs and a natural cathedral cut into the rock. It was breathtaking.

But then there was this morning, what can I say? We decided to do the other 'not to be missed' experience of Coromandel; Hot Water Beach - a beach which has thermal springs underneath certain areas where at low tide you can dig your own spa pool. Low tide this morning was c.7am so we made breakfast before we went to bed, and set our alarms for 6.30am!! We drove, bleary eyed, to the beach and found that we were alone. We found the natural thermal area and dug our own little spa while watching the sun rise out of the ocean in front of our eyes, still alone. And then we stripped off, pulled out our bacon butties and flasks of tea and sat in our spa enjoying the view. It was simply incredible. A lady walking her dog passed at the appropriate moment to take a couple of photos for us, and we were eventually joined by 4 more people who just came for the view (of the beach, not us!) but I can't think of a more perfect morning, ever!

And then we moved on again to Whitianga, from where I'm trying to quickly type this blog. Once here we caught the little ferry over the harbour and went in search of Lonely Bay, another perfect little white sandy cove that we had all to ourselves. Here we sat on the beach, ate our lunch and watched gannets diving into the sea, catching fish, before climbing to the top of Shakespeare's Cliff to look out over Lonely Bay and Cook's Bay beyond. Tomorrow it's off to Coromandel Town.

Before I go, Su and I would like to send our congratulations to Em & Michael who have just had a baby son, James William, and to Emily and Sophie, his two older sisters - we've raised our glasses to you tonight! And of course a happy birthday to Em, whose birthday is the day after young James was born!

Lots of love, Jo & Su, xxx