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Hey hey from Cambodia... land of Killing Fields, Wats and 'Tomb Raider'! At this exact moment in time I am in Siem Reap, expectantly anticipating a good few days of what I envisage to be tomb raider-esque escapades through jungle covered Angkor Wats and such... alas I highly doubt that the hussle and bussle of the tuk tuk drivers and tourists will make my fantasy a reality. Oh well. Right... better hop to it and tell you about the past few days in Phnom Pehn!
April 25th- Arrival in Phnom Penh
Today we had a flight from Vientianne and Phnom Pehn. I awoke with a nice feeling in my tummy- partly thanks to finally getting rid of my stomach bug and partyly as I got to chat to a lot of people on skype the night before. The flight was nice, we enjoyed the air conditioning and free drinks- never again am I going to take just one pitiful glass of coca cola on a flight... they are free... take 6!! Argh, perhaps travelling is taking its toll on my manners.
We arrived at the airport and were quickly harrassed by 10's of tuk tuk drivers, before teaming up with an american girl and getting one together. It was still $7... what a rip off! Though, Cambodia as a whole does rip you off as they use a combination of Dollar and Riel, so everything is $1, and with current economic crisis degrading the dollar so much the exchange rate is like 1$-70p or something stupid. It is like a dollar for water and coke... excuse me!? Anyway, wemade our way to the lake, but the accomodation proved too basic for me in particular, I was feeling the need for a nice room with A/C. I the end we went to a n9ice hotel near the river, which was right nest to the royal palace and museum so saved us tuk tuk money. We got a fridge, AC and hot water for $6 each a night... I was well chuffed, despite it being a tad more expenisive than usual.
During the evening, we decided to walk to 'Capitol' guesthouse to book a tour to the Killing Fields for the following day. The map made it look so close. As it turned out, it was blooming miles away, and we practically were staggering by the time we got there. I dont quite know why, perhaps due to both our stubborn ways, but we were adamant that we were gonna walk back... we made it, granted sweating like nothing else! I have never been so relieved to walk into a freezing shower and frost under the AC!
April 26th- Day of sobering thoughts
After an excellent night sleep, Amos and I boarded our bus to the Killing Fields. It was a bit further than we were expecting, but we busied ourselves with killing the multitudes of mosquitoes that had invaded our bus. The little b******s. I have got well good at aiming for them. Miss Paver would be proud.
Our walk around the Killing Fields was a touching experience which I sdhall never forget. Like with the Holocaust concentration camps, you really do get an overwhelming feeling that something monstrous happened there. It was, in a typically asian way, more in your face than the holocaust fields. I was shocked to see one of the tree's was labelled the 'Magic tree- the tree on which the children were bludgeoned to death on'. Many of the mass graves have been left untouched, but those that have been excavated are huge. The Skulls of the millions who died there are stacked in a huge, beautiful monument in the centre of the killing fields. I thought it was excellently designed. It had a simular ornate roof to a wat, but the main body of it was a stark, white tower, almopst reminicient of a bone. We spent the entire bus jounry back in silence.
We got dropped off at the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum. Before 1975 when the Khmer Rouge coup, this building was a school. The Khmer Rouge turned it into their main prison called 'S21'. The tortures committed here were unbelivable... And they were graphically depicted and described. The most touching part of the museum was the rows and rows of photographs of those who had died, taken by their executioners. It was unbelievable to see so many children and women. I thought that it was very interesting, and an amazingly weel done homage to the whole event... it also had writings from the security guards and the prisoners that surivived, each giving their side of the story, which was a nice touch. After the museum we had an AMAZING lunch at this cute place called Bodni Tree (I know that it is irrelevant and out of context, but it is worth remembering!)
After our rather heavy day, we enjoyed a nice glass of wine at the river front, and played cards. It was a lovely, relaxed evening!
April 27th- Museums and Palaces
Sara informed me that I was shouting, rather violently, in my sleep last night... which is ironic as just the other day I was saying how pleased I was that it had gone away! Oh well...
Today we had lunch at a place called Bojangles, after a lovely lie in, and played an epic game of scrabble. After this we went to the National Museum, which was somewhat of a disappointment to be honest! The archefacts were all mal-described... I think it needs more work. We then went to teh Royla Palace, which was also a bit of a disappointment. Granted... it was beautiful. But as it is still the king's residence we were really limited on what we could see. We also visited the Silver Pagoda, which was pretty.
In the evening we drank more wine and played more cards... I like relaxing!
April 28th- Day in Phnom Pehm
Today... well.... we could not be bothered. So we bought a movie and then read up in Lonely Planet where shows DVDs and we went and ask to use their DVD player. Uncultural- Maybe. The perfect day- exactly.
On the way to the guest house I was disgusted to see a motorbike with about 30 aliuve ducks hanging upside down by their legs off the back of a motorbike... it was SO gross.. They were all quacking and looking terrified. I wanted to throw up.
I managed to put it to the back of my mind tho as we induldged in Birdget Jones- The edge of reason, and Wanted...both were very good, and we enjoyed an Angkor beer with them. I like it- so I am gonna buy uyet another singlet with it on... I am becoming obsessed!
In the evening we drank cocktails, ate chips and watched the busoiness people wander by.
All in all I did not like Phnom Pehn as a city at all. The continuous harassment of the tuk tuk drivers was sometimes a little too much to bear. However, the history was incredible. We have arrived in Siem Reap now, after a long 7 hour bus ride, but I like this city much more! Will update soon!
Love to you all- and great convo the other day mum... I miss you!
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