Hello again. This is likely to be my last entry from Vietnam as I'm moving on to Cambodia on Monday. It must seem to you guys that I'm moving really quickly but to me it seems like I've been in Vietnam for ages, absolute months really. There's just so much happening etc. it feels like a life-time. I did enjoy Vietnam immensely. If I had to sum my experience here up in once sentence it would be 'Hello, Madame, motorbike?' which I got asked every second of the day. But it's been amazing and beautiful and great fun. So today I went to see the Cu Chi (spelling?) tunnels which the North Vietnamese army was busy digging underneath the South during the war. Holy s***, there are hundreds of kilometres and approx. 16,000 soldiers spent months and months under ground. I tried it for a maximum of two minutes and it almost killed me. The things are 1.20m high and 0.8m wide. I hesitated about going down at first; by the time we got there I was feeling tired and dizzy etc. plus I am a big baby when it comes to these things. But then I decided to give it a go... and regretted it almost instantly, as did a lot of people around me. Thank god I was right behind two girls who wanted to get out of the next exit again as quickly as I did. I don't think we can have been under ground for more than 2 minutes, we were crawling a mere 30m until the next exit - but oh my god, I've not been scared like this for a long time. First of all, the air's not great. And then there really is not a lot of space down there. Try climbing into your oven at home, it's probably the same sort of dimension. And then people in front of us kept stopping for what seemed like ages to take photographs... it took literally all the discipline I could muster to not: scream, panic, faint. I immediately thought I wanted to turn around but there was no way back really, just more people waiting behind me. And then the slow advance at times... and then sometimes I couldn't see the next person in front of me, so I panicked and wondered whether I'd got lost. And at times it was completely and utterly dark, and I was just feeling my way along the wall. Just to say - never again. It must be related to those fears of being buried alive. It was utterly awful. I'm sure if someone had shown the Americans these tunnels, to show what the North Vietnamese were prepared to endure, they would never even have contemplated entering the war. And I also had my last bowl of proper, authentic, Vietnamese pho (noodle soup) today. Sigh. I will miss you so much... Tomorrow I'm off early to tour the Mekong Delta. I probably won't be back until late and Monday morning I'll be off early again to get to Cambodia... so don't worry if you don't hear from me for a while. Hope you're all well and take care, lots of love Jn x