I didn't sleep very well the previous night. I think the altitude was affecting me a little as I felt like I constantly needed to breathe deeply to get enough oxygen into my lungs, similar to what I often experience on planes), plus the 1cm foam mattress isn't particularly comfortable and is really hard! I just couldn't seem to figure out how to get into the sleeping bag properly or what position to lie in to be comfortable. I hoped the next night would be better.

It wasn't raining for most of the night but started again at about 5.30am. Awesome! The rain poncho would definitely get a good workout on this trip!

Even with my beanie pulled down over my eyes (a pretty good eye mask actually), I couldn't block out all the light so I couldn't get back to sleep.

We got up, packed up everything in the rain, and had breakfast around 8 am, then started out on the day's trek.

If I had to describe the day's trek, I could easily sum it up as rain, mud and crap! It pretty much rained all day and since the track is also used by a wide variety of animals (sheep, goats, cows, mules etc), it was really churned up ... plus it was covered in lovely presents they'd left behind for you to try & avoid! Yeah sure.

By now, I was seriously beginning to question the wisdom of doing a 5-day trek in monsoon season!

The section we covered was the longest uphill day and was a really good test of both physical and mental resolve: for all of us on the trip.

The support guys left the camp quite a while after us but they passed us like we were standing still. They're amazingly fit! I guess I'd be a lot fitter and faster if I didn't sit in front of a computer all day too! They're also doing the trek in little more than thongs, shorts, & t-shirts! Although by the end of the day, they'd upgraded to a jacket as well. Meanwhile, I have about 3 layers on and I'm still cold!

Indrajit was telling me that many of the tracks we now go trekking on in this state (Himachal Pradesh) were first formed by shepherds taking their flocks up to escape persecution many years ago. This is different to Uttarakhand, where many of the tracks were developed mostly for religious reasons like a pilgrimage to a sacred site or a temple.

Apparently, we made good time as we arrived at the next campsite about 1.30-2.00pm, which was much better than a previous group of Indian trekkers he'd taken up about a month ago. They didn't arrive until 4.30pm!

We had already reached the end of the valley, and what a valley it was! There were 3 waterfalls flowing down into a river that winds its way across an almost perfectly flat grassland where wild horses were grazing, their foals frolicking across the field. When the clouds parted, you caught glimpses of the snow-capped mountains above, glaciers and green meadows.

OK ... all today's hard work was totally worth it! If only the bloody rain would stop for a while!

The support guys had already pitched our tents (they did an amazing job) so we went into the kitchen tent to warm up around the gas burner stove. Normally, trekkers aren't allowed inside the kitchen tent but since it's just me, I can do pretty much whatever I want!

We had an afternoon snack of some rice mixed with dhal and chillies (everything needs chillies of course). It was surprisingly tasty!

As it was still raining and I was feeling quite tired from the trek, I went and had a nap for a while. There wasn't much else we could do anything. I took off my soaking wet socks, put on a fresh, dry pair, then got into my nice, warm sleeping bag (yes, I got it figured out today) and fell asleep.

I went back to the kitchen tent a little later and chatted with three Indian guys who are doing an independent trek, up to the same place as us. I was standing there in my down jacket, fleece jacket, long sleeve t-shirt, thermal pants and normal pants ... while one of the guys basically just had a thin cotton shirt, some jeans and runners ... not surprisingly, he was shivering in the cold and rain!

Indrajit gave them some pointers about where to go and we watched them head off across the grassy plain, then slowly go up the side of the mountain and disappear from sight.

I refilled my water bottle from the river we're camped next to as I have done several times on this trip already. We don't carry drinking water from the town as they would be much too heavy.

Drinking from the rivers is a bit of a concern given all the animals around, however. I no doubt ingested all kinds of god-knows-what but had to hope that those pro-biotics I was taking every day would do their job and keep the squirts away! Definitely, do not want anything like that when you're out trekking as it's a long way to the closest toilet.

Still, I'd been eating in local restaurants, drinking water from the tap and eating naan bread with my hands and I hadn't gotten sick so far. So either the pro-biotics have turned me into Superman on the inside or I'd just been really lucky.

While waiting for dinner, I took the opportunity of a few hours without rain to go out & take some photos of the wild horses nearby. They didn't seem to care that I was there at all so I took some cool photos and videos of them roaming around.

Like guests at your house, we all made our way into the kitchen tent and watched our cook make our dinner for the evening, including a really interesting dessert made from grated carrot, sugar, & dried fruit which is then fried and has some milk added. I can't remember the name of it now but it was really good!

While eating dinner, I tried to learn some Hindi words from the guys. I'm not sure when I'll get to use these but I always like to learn a few words as it always helps you make friends plus I like to learn new things. Everyone you meet knows more about something than you so you can always learn.

On the way up, we discussed quite a few things including pay rates. I found out that a trekking guide earns about AUD30/day, which is only paid when actually leading treks. In between, they get their meals and accommodation covered but nothing else. The support guys get about $10-15/day. Wow! Apparently, this is still enough to survive on in India.

After dinner, I showed Indrajit some photos and videos of my previous Valley of Flowers trek. He knew all the places as well as the trek leader we had (Sandeep) since Indrajit used to lead treks for India Hikes. He quit after they made him do 8 successive Valley of Flowers' treks. He was actually in the VoF at the same time I was last year & could also remember Hasneet! Small world hey.

The VoF is a beautiful place but I don't think I'd want to do it 8 times in a row either! Funnily enough, our cook also used to work for India Hikes.

Before heading off to bed, I tried out the toilet tent. I'll spare you all the details but let's just say that we had the luxury toilet tent ... it had a seat! Apparently, the normal toilet tent just has a hole you squat over to do your business. Ours should be renamed the "Throne Room" then!

We finished up everything & went to bed at about 8.30pm