Monday, November 9, 2009 My last day in Rome

Well, this is my last night in Italy, tomorrow I fly to Paris. I have to say that Rome met my expectations, although I didnt and couldnt do everything there was to do.

Backing up to my last entry from Naples.

Tuesday, November 3

So the Baryshnikov performance was not at Teatro San Carlo, the Opera House, but at Teatro Politeamo, a smaller and plainer venue nearby. I guess I will just have to return during Opera Season in Italy and make the circuit to see and hear Opera in the proper locale.

The Baryshnikov performance was more modern dance than ballet. MB, as I will call him, cannot leap and jete like he used to. In fact, there was a piece he created just on that idea - very tongue in cheek and humble. He danced with a woman who was in her golden years as well. You could say the dances were nuanced, but not athletic, more like something Gene Kelly or Fred Astaire would do. I'm glad I got to see it as I dont think he will be touring much longer. The theatre crowd was very mixed, rich dowagers and young people in jeans. They got several curtain calls, as they should.

Wednesday, November 4

I was having breakfast in Six Small Rooms and discussing the educational system in Italy with Jenny, owner of the hostel and mother of a 9 year old girl. Apparently, the system is poor in both public and private schools with all the advantage weighted towards the teachers, who arbitrarily no show and flagrantly show favoritism. Not much chance of change either as the parents wont rock the boat.

While breakfasting, I got a call from Fabio, who wanted me to connect with a New Yorker who would also be taking the train that morning to Rome. I made arrangements to meet Mykel near the ticket window at the train station. I ran a bit late and when I arrived Mykel had already purchased his ticket. No problem - the ticket machines let you punch in the seat number of someone you want to sit near and if its available, you have it.

We boarded the train and had a pleasant jouney. Mykel shared his travels in Albania " like Italy but without the tourists" and his work as an instructor of English to Japanese in NYC. When we got to Rome, we headed straight for The Beehive, the hostel where I had reservations but Mykel didnt. He was able to get in, but only after paying 70 Eu for a private - all they had left. Met a lovely Australian family, Mum, Dad two boys and spent the evening conversing with them while having happy hour at the organic restaurant connected with The Beehive. After two wines, I was ready to turn in.

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Went to the cafe across from the Terminal and decided to get a 15 Eu ticket for the hop on hop off bus. Glad I did - it was cold, but bundled up I sat on top of the double decker and got a few good shots and the lay of the land. Trip took about two hours to cover 12 locations. I jumped off at the Trevi Fountain, had some pizza and walked around a little bit. Saw a church but peeked in only (saving my luck for St. Peters). Got back on, finished the tour and then went around again, getting off this time close to some ruins. Did a fair bit of hiking and then found the entrance and times for the Forum/Palatine Hill/Colleseum. Save that for a warmer day, probably Saturday. Back to the hostel where I had a lovely bowl of pumpkin soup and some pasta, and wine of course. Talked a good bit with Suzanne, the Australian mum and also physiotherapist. Shout out to Suzanne!!

Friday, November 6, 2009

Beehive didnt have room for me so I am spending the next three nights at Orsa Maggiore, a women only hostel in Trastevere, the trendy area on the west bank of the Tiber river (called Tevere in Italian). Got checked in, and as it was a rainy day, decided to take the short trip up to the Vatican and see what the fuss is all about.

The Vatican Museum- ok and 14 Eu

St. Peters Basilica - worth the fuss! (and free)

So the museum is a long hike around the back of St. Peters and then a wait in line, but not too long today as it is raining. Got in and then its a long systematic trail thru museum, room after room of frescoes, statues and religious paraphanalia until you get to the Sistine Chapel. Huge room, no photo!, crowd of people. Light was not so good. Scale is enormous, but there is better detail to be seen in all the books out there. Eh..

St. Peters was a different story. Very awe inspiring. And The Pieta! Photo ok but no flash, which was fine as I hope you will see. Stayed to Mass. There was actually some singing in Latin, which brought me back to my pre-lapsed Catholic days. I have now been to Mass in Italy about 4 times which is 4 times as many masses as I have attended in the US in the last 4 years. At the end of mass, about 6 pm, it was a very long day, and my feet were cold and wet. Got back to the hostel and then went off in search of food. I guess trendy people eat late. Restaurants dont open before 8pm, so I settled for pizza to tide me over, then just had soup and wine at a restaurant near the hostel. I'm loving the soups here.

Saturday November 7, 2009

A sunny day, at last, perfect for the Forum and Colliseum. Tried to carry the minimum in the daypack but it still got heavy after a while, esp as I had to throw in my jacket and sweater as the sun got brighter and warmer. Listened to my Rick Steves podcast as I walked around,. There is a lot to see and a lot of ground to cover. Even though I ate two big apples and a protein bar during the day, I was famished as before. But no time to rest as I planned to see La Traviatta that night in a church near the Spanish Steps. Got there, got my ticket, and then killed time in the big square where a concert was being set up, then walked up and down the trendy shop lined streets (Gucci, Fendi, D&G, Dior) looking for a non pizza place that served before 8. Had a light meal, then made it back to the Anglican Church where the Opera was performed. had never heard La Traviatta before - the singers were good and delivered emotionally, but I wasnt crazy about the music. It was late by the time I got back to the hostel from across town. I am now a successful survivor of both metro and bus in Roma!

Sunday November 8, 2009

My plan today is to see the big open air market in Porta Portese, south end of Trastevere. I was glad I brought my umbrella as the showers came and went. It seemed like an acre or more of stalls of clothes, antiques, purses, belts, shoes, shoes and more shoes. Only the occassional food booth. I saw a lot of 'ivory' and was tempted but knew US customs would require paperwork documenting it was antique or it could be confiscated. After a couple of hours, I was ready to move on and walked along the riverbank looking for the bridge that would bring me to the Jewish Quarter, formerly the Jewish Ghetto.

The Catholic Church has done a number on the Jewish community over the centuries, but in the 15th century one of the Popes took away most rights, allowing only the occupation of rag seller, forcing all jews to sell their property to Christians and then making them pay rent on property they formerly owned. They were kept in a walled ghetto in the lowest area of Rome that flooded regularly and locked in at night. They had to wear identifying clothing (four hundred years before the Nazis did the same thing). Depending on the Pope, The Jews had more or less civil rights, but were never considered citizens until Garibaldi united Italy in the 1870s and took Rome back from the Pope. They enjoyed some real independance then, being free to move from the ghetto but they decided to rebuild their synagogue in the same location as a reminder of their past. The museum and synagogue were fascinating, and as the building was built in the Belle Epoche, the stained glass windows are Art Nouveau. Later, I had a meal at a kosher restaurant, soup again and fried artichoke, done in a way that sort of tasted like home fries. plus some ricotta cheesecake, not as sweet as the usual but a more substantial texture.

Got back to the hostel at a decent hour and took it easy, reading a mystery until falling asleep.

Monday, November 9, 2009

Back at The Beehive again, as it will be closer to the airport transportation for tomorrow. Downloading my Rome pics, and will soon go out into the rain to score some more gelato while I still can. Today is the 20th ann of the fall of the Berlin wall and there is to be a concert at The Spanish Steps tonite. Will try to make that and see what else I can get into on a Monday.

Tomorrow - Paris!!