Morning flight by Air Vietnam. Afternoon at the National Museum (excellent display) mugging up on Cambodian culture & rather complicated history, as well as a crash course on Hindu gods and their avatars - all good preparation for Ankhor Wat tomorrow.

Our last day in beautiful Luang Prabang. We had signed up for a visit to an elephant conservation project. Not sure what we expected but par for the course would have been to have a short, token ride and then to be taken to the river to 'help' scrub them down. The day proved to be much more than that. It started as anticipated with a circuit - though this included an alarmingly steep downhill track to the river. The Mahouts genuinely seemed at one with their elep...

Ventured out on bikes to find a recommended restaurant serving Lao fondue, a 'must' we were told. We were also given directions which didn't include the fact that road was unlit and under construction. However the goal was worth the dust, potholes and deviations. Lao fondue consists of cooking meat or fish on top of dome with a gulley of soup to which you add veg (and a whole egg!) all over very hot coals - delicious. More on the food subject, today we did a cook...

If you ever wondered where statues of the Buddha go to die when they're too old, knackered or headless to remain in the household shrine (and I know I have) then here's the answer - the Pak Ou Caves. Situated 25km up the Mekong from LP the caves were granted a royal charter in the 16th century as a statue resting place. It's also the source of holy water in which newer Buddhas have their annual ablutions. But our day started at 6 when we were picked up to watch...

Change of plan! No flights to Siem Reap on 27th so leaving on 28th. What a hardship to have to spend another day here. We also realise that we were rather ambitious in our travel plan so may limit our Vietnamese experience to the south. Will keep you posted.