What a beautiful looking Island, high mountains beautiful tropical rain forests. It is one of the least visited islands and therefore remains more in its natural state and is undeveloped.
We anchor on the north west leeward side in 'Prince Rupert Bay' at the town of Portsmouth. Several natives approach us to offer any services we need. For example food, tours, etc.
Dominica was the last of the Caribbean islands to be settled, due to the strong resistance of the native Caribs. It is the only island still with a large Carib population, ( only about 2000 ). There is a reservation for the Caribs we were to visit, where they do weaving, canoe building and wood carvings.
We buy some live crayfish from the locals in a passing boat together with a tuna we later buy from a street stall run by a local fisherman.
We take a walk in the town of Portsmouth. It has one Main Street running parallel to the water. It is a town that looks what we now understand is typical Caribbean, with many colourful bungalows, funny signs and quiet poor in appearance.
There are women with small fruit and vegetable market stalls in the street. There are men sitting in small bars, lots of cafes, but none are open. There are also fisherman on their boats cleaning and selling fish.
We have been referred to a guide, Martin, by a Canadian couple we met in St. Lucia. Scott and Cathy Taylor.
We arrange a couple of tours with him for the next day.
Tuesday, Martin picks us up early, with Christy our chef we visit with Martin, the street markets. He is a student of Botany. He explains some of the fruit and vegetables unusual to us, such as bread nuts.
We then take a trip up the Indian river, through jungle with lots of crabs, palms and birds. He explains that Christopher Columbus landed here to re provision. He and his men came up this river to get food and fresh water. They found a large group of Caribs here, with whom they traded. As they arrived on the island on a Sunday, Columbus called the Island Dominica which is Latin for Sunday.
The Spanish did not settle on this Island, and it was eventually settled by the British and became another naval base for them in the 1700's. the Island obtained its independence but remains part of the commonwealth.
We then drove up into the mountains to the Morne Diablation National Park (4740 feet high). Here we walked through tropical rainforest with huge tall trees, ferns and creepers.
On our way up Martin stops and gathers up from the side of the road wild lemon grass, water cress, wild coriander and bay leaves, also beautiful tropical flowers.
We had intended the next day to go to the Carib village in a reservation on the east side of the island. But when we arrive back on BP, Paul advises we have trouble with our main freezer. We can stay but would loose the meat and other food in the freezer, or we head to Antigua where we may be able to fix it.
It is a 90 nautical mile trip so we decide to leave that night. It is unfortunate missing out on the Carib village and also by passing Iles De Saint, part of the Guadaloupe Island group, which we understand us very beautiful. However, Dominica was definitely worth seeing for its natural beauty.
JB and Mick