If heading towards Sweden, the obvious route is to Copenhagen (via an ice-cream stop by Tivoli Gardens, natch) and then over the Øresund Bridge. For those that are fans of The Bridge and general Scandinoir, this is a must. One tip, there are actually no viewing platforms, so make the most of it if you do get a glimpse. It’s also not as long as you think, so enjoy it whilst you’re on it!

The area in this part of Sweden is a little like Denmark – lots of wheat fields and generally quite flat, so fairly dull riding. Free camping is allowed, so we pitched up by a river, James spotted a Marsh Harrier and an Osprey, and we then settled down for the evening with, gasp, alcohol free wine. Yes, wine in the supermarkets is alco-free (well done James) Imogen’s big tip, go to the state run booze shops, Systembolaget cunningly found next to supermarkets.

After a morning wash from the river, a tad chilly, including a novelty moment when a car came by whilst James naked, packed up and tried to avoid the huge ants that were swarming about (gi-ants) went to a bird reservation (Getterön) and saw a Citrine Wagtail, normally found in Russia – a lifer for James. After coffees, korvapuusti, and a monster use of their super clean facilities (sorry guys), we followed a tip from some ladies we bumped into in Stenungsund, buying Bugles and the fabulously named Plopp chocolate, who said we must go to Orust – islands linked by bridges – yep – a great tip, some fab roads leading up to it, amazing views and many picnic spots. Go on the 160 as a tops loop around the best bits if you don’t have ages to spend pottering about. Also managed to see some moose, which was quite exciting for us – a mum and calf, strolling about the fields. Headed north and found a rune stone, tumuli, barrows, and two stone circles Ättehögskullen and Håvesten, near Färgelanda – well worth the detour from the 172, which also had yet another stone circle (Gravfält).

Tried to find a spot for camping, after stopping at “Ed” for the novelty, rocked up at some place, which had a country and western evening, yoikes. They said we could pitch up on the football field, so decided to move on. Pretty tricky finding a free camping spot, a few detours, and lots of riding, getting late, which as you know isn’t a good time to be riding with no place to camp in sight. After an aborted pitch spot (gi-ants abound) found one of the best spots ever – by Stora Le just south of the border near Nössemark. During the night, which was still fairly light, even at midnight, we heard the haunting cries of Black Throated Divers echoing over the water.

Another joy of free camping by a lake is the morning swim. I went first, in case of leeches (thanks James), the water was clear with a strong russet colour. Nothing like a wash in a lake to get you going whilst water boils for a morning coffee. This spot was utterly beautiful and quiet from human noise – check it out if in the area!