For those that know us, a 5.30 start is almost unheard of, but as the ferries were jam-packed, we needed this one if we were going to get into Denmark.

Blatted through gorgeous scenery on the N.R.9, getting onto the 7.30am ferry for packets of Smash, not the insto mash but essentially choc covered maize snacks, a tad odd, although I think we managed to force down the bag.

It’s quite amazing how different the Denmark scenery is to Norway, James was in a slight “meh” vibe, but I was in my element having holidayed here as a child. We headed to Jelling for the famous rune stones, the museum and area there is wonderful – a UNESCO site, it was free, with an informative and well laid out museum, which was beautifully done, plus of course, the stones themselves. Many rune stones dotted about this area, so our ride was broken up with me being excited and demanding detours, often quite lengthy as Denmark doesn’t do road signage very well.

Headed down the 11/5 to Ribe, a pretty little town that we explored and even sat outside a café eating apple pie – what a luxury. I found a wooden statue of Thor’s Hammer Mjölnir and couldn’t resist the photo opportunity.

Riding in to Germany, we were assailed by quite intense rural smells and crikey, is it windy. Trying to find a free camping spot was proving to be most elusive, by 8.30pm you really need to be set up and a –chilling. A stop in a supermarket for emergency supplies of water and Füner kräuterlikör, the only cheap booze in a small bottle I could find! Just when we were getting desperate, an area by some reed beds hoved into view, with some camping cars and another tent pitched up. Well, if it’s OK for them…. After a while, some old dude turned up, asked for €6 and then gave us the key to the ritzy yacht club bathroom and shower – result.

A beautiful walk along the river, watching the stars come out, cooking up and sitting at a table – a wonderful last night. Shame we had to head back, especially that last ride being through strong side winds and rain, then on a particularly choppy boat from Dunkirk, but a fabulous 2 weeks though some of the most stunning scenery we’ve ever seen, riding though glacial plains and crazy tunnels, swimming in lakes and being generally in the moment and feeling nature around us. We would definitely recommend this beautiful part of the world for a trip, especially on a motorbike.

Until next time.

Imogen and James Burman, July 2015