A day of two-halves. This morning we went to Lantau Island to see the Big Buddha. Lantau is probably as close to rural idyll as one can get in Hong Kong. It is a largely undeveloped island that must be much as Hong Kong was when it was first settled by Westerners - covered in semi-tropical forest. The Big Buddha is exactly that. The largest seated Buddha in the world, it was erected in the late 1980s at the Po Lin Monastery. This being Hong Kong it's not exactly a simple, aesthetic retreat but is surrounded by souvenir stalls and few opportunities are missed to sell visitors something. But it is relatively uncrowded and traffic free. Nearby is Ngong Ping 'Village'. Actually a collection of shops and restaurants it also includes a 'Walk with the Buddha' - "an immersive, multimedia attraction allowing visitors to follow the life of Siddhartha Gautama - the man who became Buddha - and his path to enlightenment". On this occasion the path to enlightenment leads straight into the gift shop where you can buy all sorts of Buddha branded wear - including a 'Walk with Buddha' hoodie. Banksy would be delighted.

The 5km long cable car from Ngong Ping back towards Hong Kong was not working so we got the ferry instead. Then, by contrast, we went to Kowloon and the Temple Street Night Market where it is possible to buy all sorts of fake designer goods - although the sex toys mentioned in the guide book were, disappointingly, nowhere to be seen. A Dolce and Gabanna vibrator anyone? We avoided temptation and went to eat in an outside restaurant. The menu included local delicacies such as chicken feet and goose intestines and the 'pick your own' seafood (no idea what they were!), but we opted to be safe and went for duck breast and chicken and cashew nuts. Kowloon is even busier than Hong Kong and wandering round is a constant assault on the senses. Curry houses seem to be especially popular - one advertising halal meals on an illuminated sign that also advertised San Miguel beer. Then back to the hotel - our final transport of delight being the wonderful Hong Kong tram.