We land at Guayaquil airport (unrelated part of central Guayquil - pictured) after an incredible 2 weeks on the Galápagos Islands. We haven't given much thought about seeing the rest of Ecuador but hear that the small mountain town of Baños is good. We figure it is Ecuador's equivalent of Bath in the UK since it has thermal springs, old buildings, a big beauty/massage industry and the same name. Add the excitement of being situated at the base of an active volcano and the decision was made.

So we tell the lady at the tourist information kiosk at the airport that we'd like to go to Baños and ask what the best route is. She directs us down the hall and tells us to follow the massive neon signs, the mens will be on our left and the women's on the right. It was bound to happen.

Baños turns out to be ok. We are a bit disappointed that the weather prevents us from seeing Volcano Tungaruhua. But that's ok coz we have seen many others during our trip.

There is a viewpoint of the town that we decide hike up to. We are the only 2 people doing this walk and come across a "have you seen this man" poster. An 18 year old american has recently disappeared and was last seen on this trail. A few minutes later a small poodle appears from the shrubs, someone or something has spray painted it pink with huge purple dots. It runs past us and doesn't respond to our friendly sounds that we make to encourage dogs to approach. I tell Nick that i am getting 'nervous' around these parts and opt not to do the extra 350 meters steep uphill climb to the higher mirador.

On the way back to our hostel we come across a street stall with a woman selling nice smelling braai'd chicken. Only it isn't braai'd. She is holding a hair dryer to aid the cooking process. The hair dryer in turn is connected to a long wire, which in turn runs up a pole to a home made connection with one of the towns street lamps. Full marks for ingenuity and entrepreneurial spirit.

Later, I decide it's time to put my ability in conversing in Spanish, without any help from Nick, to the test. Since we are in a town with lots of beauty shops, I figure it will be ok, but if I fail I might come out with ginger eyebrows and eyelashes. It turns out ok tho.

That night we treat ourselves to a very romantic dinner at a posh resort with jacuzzis and luxury heated pools, with a special view of the city lights of Baños below. It's a purely magical evening and we reflect on how brilliant South America is, until the kid from the table next to us doesn't stop screening and demanding attention from her useless parents.

The following day we hire bikes and cycle the "Ruta de Las Cascadas". This is a stunning ride through the mountains stopping at various waterfalls along the way. The best one is the Pailón del Diablo where you can crawl through the cave and stand behind the waterfall as it crashes down in front of you. Plus there is a cheapo but fab little restaurant that Nick insists serves the best meal in Ecuador -fresh river trout (trucha frita) and chips.