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The Great Coastal Gate, along with the Viru Gates, are the last of six gates that controlled access to the town in Medieval times. The gate system here on Pikk street originated in the 1300s, but it was during reconstruction in the early 16th century that the Fat Margaret cannon tower was added. Built from 1511 to 1530, this hefty, round tower has a diameter of 25 metres, a height of about 20 metres, and walls up to 5 metres thick.
The origins of Fat Margaret's name are a mystery. Some theories insist it was named for one of its larger cannons, while others hint at a cook called Margaret who once worked here.
In any case, the tower has served a number of different functions throughout its history. It has been used a storehouse for gunpowder and weapons, and as a prison.
Now it's home to the Estonian Maritime Museum, which provides a detailed look at the nation's seafaring past. Visitors should be sure to climb up to its rooftop viewing platform to get a lovely view of Old Town and the bay.
Took a few photos here before heading on down the road. There were all kinds of shoppes and restaurants along Pikk. I headed around to the Oleviste Church (St. Olaf's). This was a beauty. A bit old but still a small beauty. St. Olaf's church or St. Olav's church (Estonian: Oleviste kirik) in Tallinn, Estonia, is believed to have been built in the 12th century and to have been the centre for old Tallinn's Scandinavian community prior to the conquest of Tallinn by Denmark in 1219. Its dedication relates to King Olaf II of Norway (a.k.a. Saint Olaf, 995-1030). The first known written records referring to the church date back to 1267, and it was extensively rebuilt during the 14th century.
A legend tells that the builder of the church, named Olaf, upon its completion, fell to his death from atop the tower. It is said that when his body hit the ground, a snake and a toad crawled out of his mouth. There is a wall-carving depicting this event in the adjoining Chapel of Our Lady.
Around 1500, the building reached a height of 159 meters. The motivation for building such an immensely tall steeple must have been to use it as a maritime signpost, which made the trading city of Tallinn visible from far out at sea. Between 1549 and 1625, when the spire burnt down after a lightning strike, it was the tallest building in the world. The steeple of St. Olav has been hit by lightning at least eight times, and the whole church has burned down three times throughout its known existence. Following several rebuildings, its overall height is now 123 meters.
From 1944 until 1991, the Soviet KGB used Oleviste's spire as a radio tower and surveillance point. It currently continues as an active Baptist church.
The tower's viewing platform offers panoramic views over the old town and is open to the public from April through Nov, daily 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 30kr.
I took a few photos here and walked around to see some of the burned portions of the church, when the powerchair ladies were coming down the road. We laughed and joked a bit with each other and I asked to hitch a ride. These ladies weren't letting a thing hold them back from seeing the city.
I headed on down Pikk and there was a bakery that had the most beautiful and interesting bakery in the window. The door was slightly cracked and I stuck my head in, to see if I could purchase something, but she said she wasn't open yet. The place was steaming hot and the bakery smelled absolutely wonderful.
I strolled on down and passed a souvenir shoppe full of tourists, but kept going. I didn't want any added weight to carry.
As I headed towards the end of the street, I saw a crowd of people in front of this building with a red door. I said to myself, "oh, that must be the "House of the Brotherhood of the Black Heads." As I got closer, that's what is was. House of the Brotherhood of Black Heads was an association of young and foreign merchants staying in Estonia and Latvia in 1399 for a long period of time, but not permanently. The building represents a Renaissance architectural piece built by the Dutch, with lots of ornaments and carved decorations. The main entrance is Tallinn's most eye catching door, which was constructed in 1640. The interior is in a Neo-Classical style. There are occasional concerts and conferences taking place in the house. Free entry when no concerts or conferences are on.
As I neared the corner, and according to my Yahoo Map, if i made a right I'd be at the "Dominican Monastery." One of the best-kept secrets of Tallinn is to be found in the very center of the city. It is a medieval Dominican monastery, which is located near Viru Street, between Muurivahe and Vene Streets, which reveals a fascinating dimension of the city's history.
A Spaniard Saint Dominic Gusman founded the Dominican Order in 1216. Up to that moment only bishops were permitted to preach, but their performance was inadequate because of the time they had to devote to the administration of their dioceses. The result was that many Christians heard the Word of God rarely if at all. Dominic envisioned the creation of a body of trained theologians who would scatter throughout Europe and proclaim the gospel in the most remote areas. Nordic countries appeared very early on the Dominic agenda.
To reach Tallinn the friars followed the trade route along the southern coast of the Baltic Sea, and reached Estonia some 750 years ago. The monastery in Tallinn was certainly in existence by 1246. Constructed in gothic style, it exhibits a number of Interesting architectural features, and contains the largest collection of carved stones in Estonia.
The site of the monastery in the Old City was carefully chosen in order to facilitate both the ministry of the friars and their business interests. They traded fish in order to support themselves, but their reason for existing was preaching the word of God. The seal of the monastery bore the words "Order Of Preachers". The people, however, knew it as "Blackfriars Monastery" because of the black cloaks the friars wore in public over their white habit. As medieval documents say the monastery was dedicated to Saint Catherine. A common symbol of the Dominican Order is a black and white dog holding in his mouth a burning torch. It derives from a pun on the Latin name of the friars, "Dominicanes", which means "the followers of Dominic". But the name could be split into two words "Domini canes" which means "the hounds of the Lord". The torch represents the flame of truth. The monastery was celebrated for its scholarship. Its best known prior was an Estonian from Tallinn named Mauritius. He studied theology in Cologne with one of the most eminent medieval scholars, Saint Albertus Magnus, and may have been a fellow-student of St. Thomas Aquinas. Mauritius completed his studies at the University of Paris, which was then the best in Europe. On his return to his native land Mauritius kept in touch with colleagues in Germany. His intellectual stature is indicative of the quality of the monastery's leadership.
The offerings made on the occasion of family festivals made a significant contribution to the monastery's finances. The various guilds gave gifts when their feast days were celebrated. The Merchant Guild, for example, each year in December gave the friars a tun of meat, a tun of codfish, and a tun of peas. Rich burgers left legacies to the monastery for the privilege of having a family tomb in the church. But these did not suffice to sustain all those whom the monastery housed. The friars, in consequence, becaipe farmers and fish-mongers. In addition they ran a brewery, which produced four different kinds of beer. In northern Europe beer occupied the place enjoyed by wine in the south, and was a staple element of both the monastic and secular diet. The monastery also drew profit from the veneration of relics. Many documents mention twelve silver reliquaries containing the heads of saints. Some reposed on the high altar whereas others were enshrined on side altars. Each head was reputed to cure a different set of diseases.
In 1517 the Reformation started in German and very quickly spread into the Baltic states. The loyalty of the friars to Rome made them immediate victims. In 1523 a Lutheran mob burnt down the Franciscan monastery in Kuramaa. The Dominican monastery in Tallinn was destroyed in 1524.
In the year of 1954 the former garden, cloister and refectory of the Dominican monastery were restored and opened to visitors. One of the most beautiful and peaceful places in Tallinn is the cloister garden, which is bordered on one side by the church of Saints Peter and Paul and on the other by the original church of Saint Catherine. A permanent exhibition of carved stone slabs also takes place in cloister and refectory. Sea and limestone (dolomite) are two symbols of northern Estonia. Carved stone decorated public buildings and private houses. Tallinn owes much of its distinctive flavor to the use of the beautiful stone in its walls and towers, and in its secular and religious architecture. Carved stone decorated public buildings and private houses.
Controvento, an Italian Restaurant was highly recommended on Tripadvisor.com, but it was way too early for Italian. I walked around St. Catherine's Passage, just to people watch a bit. St. Catherine's Passage (Katariina käik) is one of the main tourist attractions in Old Tallinn. The passage connects Vene and Müürivahe streets and represents a true medieval milieu. The remaining portions of St. Catherine's church can still be seen in the Northern part. The passage is the home of unique open studios for various artists where not only the finished paintings can be seen, but also the process of constructing the art itself.
I headed on down an on my way to Hellman Tower. I heard the most angelic children singing. I peeped my head into the windows of what I thought was a children's school. Actually it was but it was a music/art school for children. These children had the most beautiful voices. I stood there a few minutes just to listen. I walked further down Vene and noticed locals shopping in the small stores along the way.
I turned and walked down a narrow passage. There were all sorts of vendors in this area. I mean a lot of vendors. I passed the first set. Looked as though they were all selling scarves. Then I headed on down further an realized I was standing with in front of Hellman Tower. Even after renovations, that took place centuries later, this 15th centuryHelleman Tower retains its old world charm and still attracts hoards of tourists and locals just the same. Originally built to store ammunition's, this tower now plays the role of a meeting point, wherein you can sit and catch up with your friends or rent the place for some private function. This tower has a leisurely feel to it, that allows you to take a break from your fast paced routine. Rich with a strong historic background, Helleman Tower houses Citizen Hall, Bumpkin Chamber and a gallery that collectively can accommodate over 100 people at a time. Another reason why this place is popular could be the food served here, although it is not mandatory to order a meal to use the place. A place where you can eat, spend some alone-time and organize a social event, the reason of Helleman popularity is quite evident. This was actually nothing great, but it's a tourist attraction.
I walked on through the crowded vending areas. Again, I didn't want to look at anything, because I didn't want to carry anything. And now, I'm tired as all get out. I follow my map and end up at the corners of Rataskaevu and Dunkri, looking for the Cat's Well. I see nothing that looks like a well. So I ask a passerby and I was actually standing right in front of it. The legend has it that during the old times people feared the evil water spirit that lived in the wells. Therefore, in order to keep the well full they started making sacrifices to the well's spirit. The main objects of sacrifices were cats. They were thrown down the shaft, sometimes even still alive. That was so common that locals gave the well the name Cat's Well. Now it's just an old well in the centre of Old Tallinn, and cats are no longer thrown in it. I move on around and up through a few narrow walkways and up some narrow stairways and further into "Old Town." The origins of Tallinn date back to the 13th century, when a castle was built there by the crusading knights of the Teutonic Order. It developed as a major centre of the Hanseatic League, and its wealth is demonstrated by the opulence of the public buildings (the churches in particular) and the domestic architecture of the merchants' houses, which have survived to a remarkable degree despite the ravages of fire and war in the intervening centuries.This walk was pretty interesting, as I don't think a lot of tourists climb these narrow passageways. I finally end up at the "Maiden Tower." The tower gained its ironic name because it was used as a prison for prostitutes in the 14th Century. It has been rebuilt several times since then, and still offers amazing views. The tower is also suppose to be haunted. It was pretty cool because somehow, I ended up coming through the back. I got turned around somewhere and was a bit lost at this point. I couldn't exactly find the street I was looking for, to head up to Toompea Hill. I knew I had to head up. There were people everywhere and vendors too. I followed this road and in front of me was the back of Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. I said to myself, "all you gotta do, is follow the crowd." Now this church is something to see. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is situated on Toompea Hill. It represents a Russian Orthodox Cathedral that was built in 1900 by St. Petersburg master Mikhail Preobrazhensky. The cathedral is still operational, and offers a breathtaking experience of Russian traditional religious art. Admission is free. I took photos from every angle. This church is breathtakingly beautiful. After a few frontal photos, I headed around and down another street. I ended up at the "Catherdral of St. Mary The Virgin." St. Mary's Cathedral also known as Dome Church is perhaps the oldest church in Estonia. It was founded in 1219 by the Dutch. The Baroque pulpit dates back to 1686 and the organ has been around since 1780. There is also the tomb of Otto Johann Thuve here to visit. It is highly recommended to visit after the Sunday service. I took a few photos hear and headed back towards Alexander Nevsky. There seemed to be a park in the back, so I went back there to sit a while. My legs and feet were so tired from all this walking. I'd sat for probably an hour. I was really tired. I just sat and people watched. There were also construction workers-working on the backside of the church. I wandered around this area, trying to find the street on my map. I must have walked in 4 or 5 circles. I finally decided to take a chance and walk down along the park. there were kids walking with backpacks, but I really paid no attention. I walked down and saw a hill with a bunch of kids on it. They were all facing one way. I walked on a bit further and saw something like a huge outdoor shopping mall. When I finally approached some stairs, that's when I realized, I went the wrong way. Viru Keskus is a very classy modern shopping centre in Old Tallinn. The place houses sixteen different restaurants and bars. There are all sorts of shops and stores here. This is not only a shopping centre, but a very convenient meeting point. For kids there is a play park available, there is also a special children's event held every Saturday afternoon. Some of these towns are so small, you can easily get turned around but be in the right place you need to be. I watched a bit and saw that a skateboard competition was about to begin. I knew I wasn't going to stay and watch that. I asked a policeman which way to Estonia puiestee. He pointed and told me, "it's right there." I couldn't believe I was right there. I walked through the plaza and there was a very small church right in the square I took a photo, but didn't go over to it as I was trying to get all my stops in today. I walked over to the main street the police officer had told me. I also saw a huge map. Didn't stay there too long as pigeons were everywhere. I walked down and passed another nice park. There were people sitting there and plenty of people walking. I crossed the street and asked directions from a woman in a newstand. She didn't know where I was trying to go, probably didn't want to know. I walked away and then thought about it. I probably should at least by a tram ticket from her in the event I'm running late, walking in circles. I turn around and there's a shopping mall behind me. I cross the street and head in. I feel a bit weird as I know all eyes are on me. "The Tourist." And she has a backpack. I head in, ask for the Woman's Department and get there and all the clothes are horrid. I've been toting this skirt with me since my trip to Greece and haven't found a top to go with it in 3 years. But, I know it's waiting for me, somewhere. Before I head out, I ask the saleslady for directions. She draws me a little map and tells me which way to go. I head out and back across the street, only to realize I'd left my sweater in there. I head right back in there to get it. The woman I ask doesn't speak English. Poor girl. But she directs me to a young lady (all young people speak English) that does. The lady says, "yes, I have it over here." I'm glad it wasn't lying on the floor. I grabbed my sweater and headed out. I made my way back to the newsstand and purchase a tram ticket, only because I had no idea of how far I am from the cruise port and I may need it. It was only $1.50 I think. Anyway, she tells me to head down the street and around. So, I head on. I get around the corner and there's no landmark or anything. I step into the bus station and ask a couple of punkers, who direct me on around. Hmmmmmmmmm, I guess I didn't walk far enough. I walk on down. Now, again, I'm ready to just lie in the street and maybe someone will come by and give me a ride. I continue walking and then I pass a casino. Wow, a Harrah's in Estonia! No time to duck in though. I'm still walking. I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw the top of a cruise ship, not mine but I knew it had to be docked somewhere. I walked toward it but it was a different cruise ship and passengers were leaving with luggage. I knew that one wasn't mine. I walked a little further and saw the "Sadamarket." A breath of fresh air came over me, because according to my map, I was just a few feet from the ship. I walked around the area of the "Sadamarket," back and forth, but could not see the ship anywhere. I walked near some naval cruisers, saw quite a few people, but still no ship. I was so tired of walking, I just said forget it and headed into the "Sadamarket" area and into the liquor store. At least I could try to buy the liquor JohnTheFinn suggested on TripAdvisor. I headed in and looked around a bit. Finally, I happened upon the Saareema Vodka. I walked around a bit and then asked one of the clerks there, if she knew where there was some sweet sparkling wine. She said she knew they had sweet wine, but wasn't sure if it was sparkling or not. I followed her and she pointed to all the sweet wines they had there. She summoned another girl who confirmed that these were the shelves that housed all their sweet wines. After they both left, I looked until I found something I though I'd like. It was some apple wine. There were all sorts of sampling stations setup there, but I didn't want an upset stomach, so passed all of those up. I headed for the check-out. You also had to bag your own liquor. I wandered around a couple of stores there and then out. I had to find my way back to the ship. I walked and walked and walked. For some reason I decided to go left. I passed a few people and someone even walking there dogs. Then I ended up in an area where the grass was not cut. I thought, "this cannot be the place," because the way I came out from the ship, all the grass was freshly cut. I walked on and that's when I saw "Fat Margaret" in the distance. I knew my way from there. All I had to do was cross the street and go right. Now, I could slow down and stroll. As I neared the port, I saw several passengers, none I recognized but you can recognize cruiseship passengers anywhere. I got through the gate and headed through the marketplace setup there. There were some nice things here to buy. Not all cheap but nice things. Bargaining is expected with street vendors here. I bought a few things and a few postcards. The vendor that sold stamps, also had a little table and 4 chairs, for people who wanted to fill out their postcards and mail them before heading to the ship. I put those heavy liquor bottles and packages down for a bit, to write. There was a gentleman and two women, who noticed that I had my pre-printed address labels and commented. "I forgot my labels on the ship." Then the gentleman says to me, "you write like our President." I asked, "who's your president?" He says with this huge smile and both his hands out with the thumbs up, "Oooooooooobama. You write just like him." I thought to myself, "I'll have to check that out later." One of the women had come back and was asking the gentleman, "what is SEK? How much is that?" I had a few money exchange sheets in my bag and handed him one. He thanked me a thousand times over for it. I watched the people as I finished up my cards and then I dropped my cards in the temporary mailbox. As I headed back to the ship, there were a lot of people out with their notebooks, trying to hookup an internet connection. Some of the crewmembers were scattered about the actual dock, trying to make phone calls. As I dragged myself towards the ship, I noticed the "Rotterdam" had docked next to us. Both ships were glorious but you knew which one was the ghetto ship. Ours! There were all kinds of clothes hanging in windows. Bras, painties, etc. I couldn't believe these people. Just ill. I got on and the guys always ask me, "how was your day Debrrrrrraaaaa?" I say, "just fine, but now I'm exhausted." The guy working the x-ray belt, hollers out, "liquor bottles, liquor bottles." As I go through though, I drop my boarding card on the floor. This couple (in an extreme hurry), goes around me. The little guy chases them down and demands that they give him the liquor bottles. The gentleman explains over and over, "I told you, I don't have any liquor bottles." I actually have the liquor bottles, but I just head over to the elevators and away from these people. I wasn't going to drink any of it anyway. I walked steadily trying not to let them clang together. I dashed into the elevator and was gone in a flash. Got to my room and unloaded all that stuff. Now I'm telling you, I have never been so exhausted in my life. I know I've said this once, but I'm saying it again... I am so glad that tomorrow is a sea day. I am sleeping in. We pulled out at 3:30 P.M. Early but it's all good. By the time I get a hot shower and relaxed a bit, it was early dinner time. Turibio had left the laundry bag I'd asked for, on my bed. Royal Caribbean is scandalous with their $25 per bag for laundry. I hadn't had a chance to stop by any local laundromats, so this worked fine. Headed up to the "Windjammer." This is the spot. Tonight they had so many varieties of food (they do every evening), it's so hard to choose. I circled I don't know how many times, with a plate in my hand, trying to make a decision. I settled for the stir-fry and of course mashed potatoes. I have never seen people eat mashed potatoes everyday. These are the best mashed potatoes ever (not as good a smy Mom's though). I went back twice for those. Only bad thing is, now the iced tea and orange juice are significantly watered down. After that feast, I headed back down to my cabin. Shut eye tonight, I didn't want to read or write a single thing. Head Aega Tallinn!
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