Pigeons and Pyramids

No hassles with the flight to Sharm el Sheikh which was a surprise from my recent form, got a lift over to Dahab from the airport with a dive instructor I met at the airport which worked out well, Dahab is a bit of a diving Mecca and I spent most of my time there in the water snorkeling or just taking it easy. Was a bit more touristy than I was expecting with a few package tours there as well but basically just a nice chilled out dusty town with some amazing reef. A superb 'blue hole' just off the coast where the ocean floor fell away by over 40 metres within 20 metres of the coast. Was very spooky snorkeling over it especially when free divers kept popping out of the depths (for those who don't know free diving is the art of diving as deep as you can with a pair of fins and a mask - no air) . Apparently these free divers were diving down to a tunnel 40 metres deep, swimming along the tunnel for 20metres and then coming back up the other side. Absolutely stupendous when you consider that when I snorkel I probably only go down 10metres. One for you to try Adam, that should finish you off.

I got a bus up to Cairo after few days being lazy, 8 hours but no great dramas. However had a few issues when I got into Cairo, thought the bus station was quite central so started walking in the direction of the centre, after an hour and a mighty sweat on I gave up and flagged down a taxi, it was a long way! No room at the inn where I was planning to stay which didn't do much for my sweat or mood, managed to get another cheap hotel eventually which was actually pretty nice with some amazing views of Cairo's smog 12 storeys up.

Ramadan is becoming a bit of an issue. Didn't really notice it in Dahab as it was quite touristy but it's a different matter in Cairo. I can understand the not eating bit but to go with no water between 4am and 6.30pm in 40 degree heat is something else. The Egyptians insist that the process is good for you, all I can see happening is that you're guaranteed to be pissing crystals by the end of Ramadan. Anyways, getting food during the day is tricky, I'm getting by with snacks out of sight from the locals. I have been told off for drinking water in public a couple of times. All this said, when sundown happens the atmosphere is electric, great lines of tables and chairs get lined up in the streets and everyone eats their 'Iftar' meal together. Seeing 95% of the 20million people in Cairo stop and do this is something else. The streets empty and social chitchat replaces the traffic noise. This only lasts 30minutes though and then all the plastic tables, chairs, and rugs are packed away and life continues after further prayer. The whole place is buzzing at night as this the only time that you can eat drink and smoke. It does however make for some very lazy grumpy daylight hours though. Food when you get it is superb although I was a bit over eager at first and probably was a little bit too adventurous. Just getting my confidence back for farting now.

Had a bit of admin to do in Cairo as I needed to get my Sudanese Visa sorted. My forged Letter of Invitation didn't work so needed to get a letter of non-invitation from the British Embassy, long story but many hours spent in post office type queues in the British Embassy and even longer hours with scary people from Sudanese Consulate. 24 hours later and it was sorted though so I now have access to Sudan, my boat leaves on Monday! Because of the faffing at the consulates I didn't make it out to the pyramids until later in the afternoon, thought this would be fine as its nicer seeing stuff later in the afternoon when it's a bit cooler. However by the time I got a taxi out to Giza and fended off all the touts selling camel rides and tasteful gold tourist kitsch I rocked up at the pyramids for 3pm just when they were closing early for Ramadan! Brilliant. Laugh or cry? Decided a bribe was in order for the security guards so I did get half an hour having a quick look round on my own. Did the Egyptian Museum as well when in Cairo, awesome mummies, how you can preserve a 90 year old body of a king from 5000 years ago I have no idea but it was quite creepy.

Was looking forward to a daytime train ride up the Nile to Luxor taking in the sights but the Egyptian authorities now only let foreigners get on the night train which wasn't quite what I was hoping for. 9 hours overnight and I got into Luxor. Found a really cool place to stay, fantastic roof terrace to chill out on and some fantastic views. A good crowd of backpackers as well, Argentinean, Japanese, Aussies, and a Belgian so all very Cosmo. Most people seem to be doing a Middle East tour though, I haven't found anyone doing my route south into Sudan yet. Some cool historic sights which I won't bore you with in Luxor, the Nile banks are picturesque apart from the carbuncles that are the 100 odd Cruise ships moored up with very red Brits, Americans and Germans sunbathing on top of them. I guess I'm only jealous.

I had stuffed pigeon tonight for dinner, one less flying rat on the street, and with that I shall leave you....