Ok, what happened after the last entry is pretty blurry, probably a good thing for my mental health, but here's a summary:

- Got on train to Belgrade the next day, about 5 minutes in the inspector checks our passports, shakes his head and says 'problem, problem' and walks off

- Two friendly aussies let us know that we are going to be deported back to Greece when we get to the Macedonian border as we dont have a visa

- At the border, a scary angry Macedonian inspector tells us to get off - we beg, plead, cry, bribe but this makes him more angry and we get thrown off and locked up in a police compound. No one speaks english, and the only thing we understand is that they dont know when the next train will be going back (its currently 7pm) - maybe all night!

- Play card games with a group of mexicans also locked up, try to sleep on concrete floor with creepy macedonian police watching us- finally get loaded onto a train at 2am

- Arrive back in Thessaloniki at 5am, go back to hostel from hell for a few hours, get MAcedonian visa (50 euros to pass THROUGH the country!!!) and go back to station for 3rd attempt to get to Belgrade.

- Get on train, flash our visas proudly, get told we no longer have sleeper carriages for the mix up - get squished into seats

- Woken up by crazy Macedonians in the middle of the night, one kicks jane out of her seat - she realises 10 minutes later her phone is missing so we have a fight with the lady and about 10 other macedonians who look like circus freaks (one's only possession is a broken accordian, another is wearing wetsuit pants, all are dirty and have few teeth) - we give up when we realise who we're dealing with

- Get to Belgrade at 10am, have had 10 hrs sleep in 4 nights - we look and smell very similar to the circus freaks.

- Now we have 4 hours to look around before we get on the 13hr train to Croatia!