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I woke up with a head cold - b*****, have been feeling so well but after all the changes in temperature, changes of location, crowded public transport it is amazing my immune system has held up for as long as it has.
Breakfast is in a communal dining room with a stunning deck overlooking the amalfi coast. I was brought baskets of home made bread, pastries and cakes but all I felt like was fruit from the fruitbowl and coffee! I caught my local bus down to positano, and then caught a fastboat to amalfi town. Amalfi is actually very nice, not as steep as positano, a real rabbit warren and it has a stunning cathedral and museum. It had an almost moorish feel to it with it's courtyard gardens and ancient frescoes and simple geometric architecture. A nice contrast to the baroque overdose I had in Rome.
I am having lunch in a little trattoria in the towns backstreets, gnocchi pesto and the most amazing home made lemon squash. I am being serenaded by the amalfi gypsy kings (who are doing shameless covers of gypsy king songs and Italian accordian classics, perched on a fountain). They are actually quite good!
I was walking through an old whitewashed corridor (very Greek island) when I stumbled across a dolceria that I had heard amazing things about. It is the adriano zumbo of Italy but everything is in minature. To illustrate the Italian charm, I was admiring several of the bite size desserts and candied orange peel, and ordered a couple with limoncello to eat outside - the waiter came with samples of everything, saying it was too heartbreaking that I not try everything I liked! That's what I like about Italy.
For the foodies amongst my friends - first cake layered sponge of green tea, pistachio, then rasberry mousse. Second cake two triangles of mousse, chocolate and hazelnut, with almond jell on top!! Third cake layered almond sponge with goats cheese and white chocolate mousse and pear jelly (call that the cheese plate dessert), finally marzipan layer, chestnut cream and cherries! Slices of perfectly candied orange peel dipped in dark chocolate and icy limoncello. All amazing!!! And €8 for the lot.
I took a boat back to positano and walked through the streets - there are alot of shops selling resort wear, shoes, pottery featuring lemons, jewellery - which is great because nothing is really a temptation. I caught my local bus back and had an easy afternoon as the heat and the headcold have taken their toll.
Amazingly I wake up after a cold and flu tablet assisted snooze at 7 pm hungry, and my local trattoria is having pizza night, so I am going with the house specialty - the pizza with smoked mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, rocket and procuitto, the base has a chewy edge and is paper thin - no grease, now I get the Italian reputation for pizza. Sadly I couldn't finish it.
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