Tanks for the memories

The museum of the Revolution is situated, perhaps with deliberate irony, at the former President's Palace. You can still see the bullet holes in the marble walls half way up the staircase, made when students from the University of Havana stormed the palace against Batista, without success at that time. The exhibits provide an informative, if one-sided, view of the recent history in Cuba with the main focus on the events surrounding Castro's 26th July revolutionary movement to depose the corrupt mafia-linked regime of Batista. The name 26th July was given to their group after a rather disastrous attack on the Moncada barracks, down in Santiago de Cuba. Castro was one of the few to survive, the rest being rounded up and shot by Batista's men. He was eventually captured, tried and imprisoned on the Isle of Pines (now know as the Isle of Youth). As a qualified lawyer, he chose to defend himself in court and gave his famous 'History will absolve me' speech. Whatever your politics, it's impossible not to be amazed at the sheer tenacity and grit that kept him leading what at times was no more than a ragtag handful of followers. After his release from prison he fled to Mexico (convinced Batista would assassinate him otherwise, which was probably not an unreasonable assumption). Having regrouped, he was also joined by Che Guevara, and in 1956 a total of only 82 revolutionaries set off on a yacht, rather inauspiciously named Granma (literally named after the owners grandma). It took almost 3 years of what can only be described as masterful strategies and discipline, combined with guile, cunning, guerrilla tactics and an unshakeable belief in their cause. Finally on January 1st 1959 Castro and his followers (led by Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos) ousted Batista, who fled and ultimately lived out his days in Portugal and Spain. What struck me as even more incredible, as you follow the history of the revolution and subsequent events that led to the severing of all ties with the US, is the fact that Castro still endures to this day, despite a reputed excess of 600 assassination attempts (many allegedly by the CIA). The history I was reading about is still in place today.

Jonny big cigar

No visit to Cuba is complete without a visit to a cigar shop. Just behind the El Capitolio building (modelled on the Capitol in Washington), we called at probably the most famous cigar factory and shop. The factory was in fact closed at the moment (Cerrado por reparaciones), when we checked for how long, the answer was a weary shrug and we realised this wasn't actually a temporary closure. In the shop, the glass counters are filled with an array of the torpedo shaped fine cigars for which Cuba has become renowned. In fact we tried to think of another nation that is synonymous with cigars and couldn't come up with a single one. The prices range from a modest few CUC per cigar up to the serious money that requires a second mortgage if you want a box of 25. Armed with a list of recommendations printed from the internet before we left, Jonathan did his best to seem knowledgeable. The shop even has an adjacent VIP lounge where you can retire and enjoy one of your purchases.

Later, when we were back at the hotel, we sat outside at the veranda bar, mojitos in hand, while Jon puffed his way through one of his purchases. I tried a few puffs and was surprised that it was actually quite pleasant, not acrid or stinging at all (us non-smokers are usually a bit delicate). At this stage Jon had visions of a new found hobby and was planning regular cigar-smoking opportunities. Sadly, this illusion didn't last long - about half an hour after returning to our room, he was laid on the bed groaning that he felt sick. Fortunately, I had the perfect cure; one murray mint dispensed, to be taken orally and the patient was feeling much better. However, all dreams of a new sophisticated pass-time had vanished as fast as the ash from the tip of his cigar.

Potatoes are still off

Cuba has a much more relaxed feel than we'd been expecting in a communist country. Perhaps it is only the Northern, cold climate, communists that have that stereotypical austere and grim reputation. There are occasional glimpses though of restriction and we are rapidly learning that whilst all looks relatively typical tropical island, with bars and restaurants, when you scratch the surface it's possible to see beneath. Take for example the humble potato - you can have your main course with beans, rice, or rice and beans. If you ask for the papas fritas that are on the menu, you get a yes answer, then sure enough rice and beans appear. 'Sorry, we have no potatoes' they explain with a shake of the head. Both mainstream restaurants and private paladars give the same weary response. The other well worn phrase we've now seen and heard on numerous occasions (not just at the cigar factory) is "cerrado por reparaciones", which literally translates to 'closed for repairs', but which actually means 'it's broken, knackered, finished and we have no money to replace or repair it, so we'll put up this sign...'

Best 'use of a movie quote' of the day (in the cigar shop, shamelessly plagiarised from Austin Powers):

Jonathan: "Do you often smoke after sex?"

Me: "I don't know baby, I've never looked"