Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
The end of our first week in Pembrokeshire
A few days ago we ran out of time to see the walled, seaside town of Tenby......but we did make it there later this week.
This little town is set high on a hilltop, with picturesque views of beautiful beaches - 2 1/2 miles of them. The winding, cobbled streets are full of charming shops, cafes and pubs that lead to the old town and the harbour, from where cruises to nearby Caldey Island can be made. Fashionable with both the Welsh & English from the beginning of the 19th century, it's still a very popular tourist spot today.
Forgoing the very few ruins of a castle, we enjoyed our historical portion of the day by visiting the Tudor Marchant's House. This stone house, built in the late 15th century, is the oldest house in Tenby and a reminder of when the town was a bustling trade centre. The house is set on a narrow alley overlooking the harbour.
Although there are only a couple of original pieces, the house has been refurbished to capture the atmosphere of a successful middle-class merchant of the times, with the ground floor featuring both a kitchen and area that would have been used as the shop/office. The original house would have had an external stair to upper floors, but modern visitors use one on the inside of the house.
On the second floor there are games that would have been played & costumes for children to play medieval dress-up + a table set for "meals." Tucked under the roof on the upper floor is the bed-chamber with a carved four-poster and wonderful views across the rooftops. This medieval dwelling is small, but well worth seeing.
The following day we decided to take a break from driving and set out to walk to the neighbouring village of Dale.....a mere 1.1 miles away. Walking these country lanes provides a completely different experience to driving on them.....but equally challenging. We quickly learned the technique of walking in the centre of the road and then flattening ourselves into the hedgerows every time a car came close!
We arrived in Dale after about an hour - realizing that somehow we had taken the "scenic" route. The small village is pretty, with a beach + a bay that's popular for sailing.
After consulting with 2 locals on the best way home (both disputing the 1.1 mile distance), we later set off back to Marloes.
Following advice that the simplest way to our village was to go past the castle, up & over the fields, across the "old, disused" airfield and along the coastal path......off we went. We gained confidence as we passed the landmarks that were mentioned - but somehow around the disused airfield and coastal path, our route started to unravel.
The day was cool, but bright & sunny......and we did find our way back....fortunate that the very strong winds were coming off the ocean and not from the other direction.
The coastal path is very close to the edge of the cliffs, with nothing but sheer drops down to the rocks and beaches below - scary, but absolutely stunning. Our 2 1/2 hour walk back finally brought us to Marloes Sands - which is only a mere 2.2 miles from our home village!
With a deadline to pick up our pre-ordered dinner of "pasties" from the village shop before it closed, and no "cell reception" to phone Marjie & Glyn (maybe they were worried about their lost relatives - or their dinner?) we were fortunate to receive a lift in the car of some fellow walkers. We made it to the shop just as the closing sign was going up......but the "pasties" were ready and no-one missed dinner!
The visit to Pembroke Castle the next day was a great choice - suggested by Marjie, our historian, who obviously "knows her stuff" - it has a long and fascinating history.
Visitors enter the castle grounds, pass through the gates and find that it opens out into a large, grassy area, surrounded by the castle walls. With paths along the perimeter, the centre is covered by a huge map of Wales. This painted, 1000 sq meter map is a unique way to discover the location of hundreds of castles, cathedrals and famous Welsh landmarks.
Pembroke is the only castle in Britain to be built over a natural cavern - a large cave known as the Wogan which can still be reached by descending a dark circular, stone staircase. During the Middle Stone Age it was used by cave dwellers as a shelter and later by the Romans for storage of traded goods.
Set on a high rocky point, the castle has a natural defensive position - with tremendous views from the top. All rooms are circular and the keep is almost 80 feet high.
While exploring the castle, visitors can discover five Earl figures who will tell their unique story and invite you into their room where an animated projected video will offer you a great insight into the history of each Earl and how they shaped British history.
Harri Tudur, who became Henry VII and inaugurated the Tudor line of monarchs, was born there in 1457 reputedly in the tower now known as the Henry VII Tower.
During the troubled reign of King Charles I, the castle was attacked in turn by both Royalist and by Roundheads as the sympathies of its occupants altered. In the latter stages of the struggle an attacking force was led by Cromwell himself.
Left crumbling for centuries the restoration started slowly in the late 19th/early 20th century. Now privately owned, Pembroke Castle is brought to life with exhibition rooms and tableaux telling its history - from the arrival of Arnulf de Montgomery in 1093, to present day.
We ended our first week in Pembrokeshire, and Marjie's birthday, with dinner at our village Pub.......all of us looking forward to next week - especially with summer and warm temperatures finally arriving!
- comments
Glynis Message to all....the blog is having map issues! We are not in Devon....we're still in Marloes, Pembrokeshire......Apologies!
Val Bring a local detailed map, compass, a local resident and a hound or sheep dog the next time both of you set off to ensure you get back to home base safely, especially when dinner/supper is at stake ha ha!
Linda Laughlin Sounds wonderful! Lots of walking too - glad you didn't get lost.
Marjie Pembroke was good - we had fun trying to get into the town without having to navigate steps (a bit difficult with the wheelchair). The merchant's house was interesting and it took the room steward about ten seconds to identify me as a "Ricardian" - that is, a supporter of Richard III. We had a long chat, leaving Trev, Glynis - and especially Glyn - bored to death... I was sad to miss most of the castle. One set of steps flattened me so I had to sit at the bottom and wait. Good job I'd taken my knitting :) still, since it was where Henry the usurping, slitty-eyed, money-grabbing Tudor (spit) was born, I suppose that was OK. I was surprised that Mr Cromwell, the iconoclastic, power- grabbing, double-dealing tyrant even bothered with Pembroke. It is a bit out in the sticks, to be honest. Still, I think that "troubled reign of Charles I" is a bit of an understatement: it was ended up in civil war. I won't even contemplate saying anything about Cromwell (spit) and Ireland. Actually, one of my heroes of the Civil Was is Prince Rupert of the Rhine, who always took his poodle, Boy, with him into battle. When I was a kid, toy and miniature poodles were all the rage and I wondered where Rupert kept the dog. It's not _that_ long ago since I realised that Boy was a standard poodle... hardly something to pop in even a Cavalier's pocket. So - now I'm 70 (agh!!) but had a lovely birthday and meal. Glynis says I can take over her blog too, but I will decline on the grounds that it'll be all things historical. Humph!! Wonder what made Trev think that!! Enough. This is Glynis's blog after all!!
Glynis Hi Val....I will take your walking tips under consideration....it was bad enough getting frantic over missing pasties...imagine how fast we would have walked if it had been fish & chips! X g
Glynis Yes Linda - lots of walking.....love it! X g
[email protected] Hi Marjie.....obviously you're on mission to "take over" my blog....especially the historical part.....and as you're more than qualified.....go for it! X g
Marjie Oops: I got carried away there! No more comments from me until I make jealous noises when you are in Portugal!