Lulé and Albufeira

One of our well remembered and favourite places in Albufeira is the Marina area, so this week we decided to spend some time there. At a distance of 2.5km from our apartment, it also makes for a good walk. After passing through one of the Old Town's main streets, the way to the Marina leads upwards to the top of the cliffs, away from town......and the crowds are left behind. This is a place where the narrow, winding streets are filled with some of the oldest of buildings - many of which have seen "better days" and are now mere empty shells, with gaping roofs. Others are sympathetically restored and brilliantly whitewashed - with painted trim, they're everything that can be imagined when thinking of a Mediterranean-type, traditional dwelling. Along the way there are many places to pause and take in the surrounding views - long beaches far below that stretch for miles into the distance & rocky cliff formations with pieces of them constantly being worn away. On top of some of these cliffs we've often seen daring youths, who pass the time by jumping into the frothing water far below......they then climb back up again to repeat the "thrill." Do their mother's know where they are?!
Many of these old buildings are now small tourist rentals, which seem to cater to the quieter-type of traveller, while others are cafés and restaurants - ranging from the casual to those catering to the "higher-end" market. These bars and eateries all have an outdoor terrace of some kind, perched on top of the cliffs and overlooking the sea. We've found our little favourite The Iguana Café.....but more on that later......onwards to the Marina!
Travelling uphill, the narrow streets eventually open up to a cliff-top promenade and anyone making this trek is rewarded with a view of the Old Harbour, where dozens of fishing-boats constantly bob around in the water. Various other types of small boats, storage huts, nets and other fishing paraphernalia line the sides of this small harbour. On leaving the cliff promenade and turning a corner, the road goes steeply downhill, giving sight of a channel which leads from the Old Harbour into the more modern Marina. With moorings for over 450 boats, one whole side of this Marina is lined with blocks of brightly painted, pastel-coloured shops, restaurants and apartments. Facing across the opposite side is a line of large villas - also holiday accommodations - painted in the same pastel colours. With boats offering every kind of tour - from full day excursions on 3 masted ships to quick & fast trips on high powered jet boats - this area could potentially be a loud, garish place - but surprisingly, it's quiet......the only exception being when a particularly loud tour-group disembarks - but they quickly disperse into taxis and Tuck-Tucks and head back to town.
We've spent some time here again this year and things remain peaceful. There is a bit of a story and a side to the Marina which makes it look a little "sad" .......a few years ago - when things were "booming," a huge hotel/development was planned and started here, but never finished. Blame was put on developers running out of funds, the financial crisis and even money-laundering. Now there are fresh rumours around - about new-backers and a re-build - but presently there is only the evidence, and the remains, of a large, ghostly shell of partially finished buildings set into the hillside.
On a night, late in September last year, we enjoyed a memorable evening & dinner at a restaurant in Albufeira's Marina. This year we've spent quite a few pleasant hours there - watching the tour-boats go in & out + watching the owners of private boats putter around topside. On a hot afternoon, we can sit and have a quiet, peaceful drink.......shaded from the sun by "sails" spread overhead & enjoy the cool mist supplied by the many oscillating fans which are placed strategically around the tables......at these times - we (selfishly) think that the Marina is fine just the way it is!
As mentioned a few paragraphs earlier - we've also spent some time at The Iguana Café, which is housed in one of the lovely little buildings perched atop the cliffs. A place than can easily be missed, the small area and inside bar opens out onto a perfect little terrace, with a spectacular view over the water. Owned by a friendly Scottish lady and her Portuguese husband, this café serves all types of drinks and an assortment of snacks - some salads and sandwiches, but mostly tapas-style food. Closing around 8pm - but no-one rushes you out - we've found that it's a perfect place to spend some time as the sun is going down. Sitting at a table overlooking the ocean - with the light reflecting off the white buildings and the cliff sides darkening to deep oranges and reds - the mood here is peaceful and quiet......although the Scottish owner is willing to chat about local history if needed (she's lived in this area for 28 years). Mostly people have quiet conversations and stare out at the view - and if feeling romantic at each other...........this place is a "hidden" gem!
Throughout the Algarve, one of the popular pastimes for shoppers is to visit a "gypsy" market. These markets - held every couple of weeks in some of the larger towns - are full of tourists looking for bargain souvenirs and gifts to take home. Although I'm not sure that the vendors are gypsies, there are some interesting characters to be found selling various items. Apart from a few stalls selling fruits and vegetables, the predominant items for sale are typical of outdoor markets - jewellery, sunglasses, purses and handbags, shoes, linens + large packs of socks and underwear! Last year, after some spirited negotiations regarding the price of a tablecloth, I had my price offer refused - accompanied by a stinging slap on my arm - from a vendor that I had unwittingly offended. This year we only took a cursory look around the market when it came to town.....I was constantly on the look out for the "tablecloth lady!"
With the memories of gypsy markets firmly in place we decided not to visit the town of Loulé on a Saturday, when the regular market there is expanded to include the "gypsies." Although it's cheaper - and a lot easier - to take one of the popular bus tours that accommodates this event, we travelled there independently on a week-day.
After our usual trek up to the bus terminal, we boarded a bus for Loulé, as the closest train-station servicing Loulé is quite a few miles out of the town. The journey there was uneventful - we left on time - and with only a few other passengers, we travelled on good roads, past mostly suburban, but interesting areas. Due to the roads being less busy than a couple of weeks ago we seemed to be on a straightforward and timely route to Loulé - almost! In order to service some of the more isolated villages, the second half of the 45 minute journey was spent doing twists and turns on narrow roads that were quite bumpy.....all within about 5 or 6 km from our destination.
Loulé is one of the largest residential residential towns in the Algarve and its bus terminal is sizeable - serving as a hub for both this area and inland travel. Although a popular destination for a day-trip, this working town seems to be able to just go about its business - the sole focus is not tourism, so visitors are able to enjoy their sight-seeing in a leisurely and relaxed way. There is a large area of town that has unattractive, mid-20th century apartment blocks, and the outer parts of the town has quite a bit of industry.
The central Old Town is a relatively small area and has a couple of suggested self-guided walking "tours," which we - unintentionally - kind of blended together.
We left the bus terminal, found the tourist information office, and with map in hand we were at the "famous" market in about 10 minutes. Open every day except Sunday, the market is housed in a large, covered building whose design elements are part Art-Nouveau with Moorish elements. Re-constructed in 2007, the original Municipal market was established in 1908 - although the first "fair" to be held in this town was in 1291. Today's market sells the usual selection of fresh fish and meat + fruits and vegetables. Other vendors offer their own "brands" of sauces & a selection of dried fruits that are plentiful in this area. With individual shops along each side selling local handicrafts - there's also a good selection of cafés surrounding the building.
The founding of Loulé is unknown - with some historians giving credit to the Carthageans around 400 BC, while others believe it to be the Romans. It is known that when the Arabs invaded in 715 Loulé already existed, afterwards becoming an important Moorish city during the 8-12th centuries. We saw remnants of this North African heritage throughout the town.
As we walked the Old Town, we were happy to find that many of Loulé's streets have white sails overhead - which gives a simple, but delightful look and atmosphere as the bright sunshine filters through.......it also provided welcome shade on this very hot, 35C day. Using the suggested walking tours that feature both the heritage & the open spaces and architecture of the town, we managed to get a good mix of its social and historical ambience.
Situated just opposite Loulé's castle is the Nosa Senhora da Conceição - a small, but beautiful chapel built in the 17th century - with origins dating back to the Moors.......a 3rd century Islamic door, which is now displayed behind glass, was recovered from the floor during excavations. This gorgeous little chapel has a ceiling which is both stuccoed and painted, a richly gilded altar and walls that are entirely decorated with blue and white hand-painted azulejos.....the whole effect is extraordinary.
We then entered the Municipal Museum which, in addition to the remains of the Castle, houses a series of exhibits of Roman & Bronze Age artifacts - all for the (puzzling) price of €1.62 per person!
Around the grounds of the museum are excavated areas revealing the Moorish ruins that the town was built upon. The Castle that remains is mostly just walls - the top of these walls provide great views over the town and towards the ocean. Inside the Museum a Cozinha Tradicional Algarvia - a traditional Algarvian kitchen - has been reproduced.
The artefacts, dating from prehistoric times to modern day, are interestingly displayed in a series of cellar-like rooms with flagged floors and arched, bricked ceilings. A few highlights are from the Bronze Age, and there are mosaics from the villas of prominent Roman citizens. Remains of these villas are still to be seen, peeping through craggy rocks, all along the coastline of the Algarve. In one room - dedicated to the Islamic invasion & Moorish occupancy of Loulié - is a glass floor with excavated Moorish ruins below.
Leaving the museum, we continued our walk around the outer part of the Castle walls, passing small, shady squares, parks and fountains. One fountain - "Bicas Velhas" - took over the mayor's well and after completion in 1887, supplied the town with water. The 4 water spouts are made from an old church bell.
The main church of Loulé is in one of the larger, but still quite small squares. It can be reached from at least six narrow streets which surround it. São Clemente is only open to the public until noon, so unfortunately, we did not get to see inside. This church, first constructed in the 13th century, is the oldest and most important in Loulé. Built on the site of a Moorish mosque - the bell tower was converted from a minaret.
On the opposite side to this main church is a small, shaded park - Jardim dos Amuados. In 1883 a wall was built on one side of a cemetery, it was then gated and enclosed as a garden......full of shade - it's a pleasant place to pause and has some good city views.
Also in this square, now housing a restaurant, is the "Martim Farto" townhouse. This attractive, single-family building built in the 18th century was the home of a noble from the King's court. Records show that he was a council official who served as "godfather" to almost all the children who were christened at this time. We hoped to sit and have some refreshments here, but it was just closing until the evening.
Coming full circle we arrived back at the Market and found a seat at one of the cafés. Although Portugal is inexpensive by many standards, we did find - once again - that in a town where tourism is not the primary focus, prices are even cheaper. In this café, 2 beers and 2 (delicious) pastries (including taxes and services) totalled €4.30 (CAD$6.36).
We walked back to the bus terminal for the journey home - but although the bus was almost 1/2 hour late - we arrived back in Albufeira in what seemed like record time.......I think the bus driver was keen on breaking "his own record!"