New Zeland, South Ialand

Christchurch - Saturday 15th

Managed to get up on time for the three hour flight to Christchurch where we landed in a real pea-souper and drizzling rain.Checked in to our hostel and then went in to town to explore.Christchurch is not quite the quaint pretty place we had imagined. There is a cathedral in the middle of a pleasant square and a few notable scattered Victorian buildings, but not much else worthy of comment and much muddled architecture.For a Saturday afternoon, the streets are very quiet and not many shoppers out and about.Went for a coffee and spread all our guides and camper rental brochures out on the table and make a few plans for our stay in New Zealand.In the evening we found that most of the bars and restaurants were empty, so opted for a quiet and cosy Irish bar.It soon filled up, as there were a couple of good local bands on.By the time we left the streets were full of drunken students in their little strappy dresses or t-shirts. We're walking back in hat, scarf, gloves and still freezing in the drizzle.It felt strangely like Bromley on a Saturday night!

Sunday 16th

We went in to the tourist office and booked our camper van rental and a couple of trips out while we are touring the South Island.We jumped on the Victorian tram for a guided city tour. It's such a small place that we did it in 20 mins and as it was raining again we didn't bother getting off at any of the parks.Instead we went in to the art museum and had a browse around the arts centre (more contemporary nonsense) and crafts centre (more interesting local produced arts, fabrics and jewellery). Enjoyed a delicious Indian curry in the evening.We're hoping that the drizzle ends tomorrow for the start of our tour.

Monday 17th

The Joys of Camping

Picked up our Jucy camper van and had a whirlwind tour of how to fit the snow chains, fill up the water tank, work the water pump, drain the 'grey water', dump the (eh hem) dump stuff before setting off in our home for the next 11 nights.Although we have gone for a deluxe version with shower and toilet, it's a bit smaller than we imagined and the shower is actually over the toilet and the sink is the size of an egg cup - but hey we are travellers!Our drive down south was stunning; particularly near LakeTekapo where the scenery literally took our breaths away and made us feel quite emotional.As we turned a corner and looked at the horizon there was an impenetrable barrier of rock and snow as far east to west as we could see.Words don't go anywhere near justifying the scenery.It was recommended that we continue on about 100 km's further to Mount Cook and although the scenery was still fantastic the actual HolidayPark was quite remote with only 3 other fellow campers there!Had a bit of a struggle hooking up the power and setting everything up, but before we knew it the steaks were cooking and we were sat at our little table dining in the Jucy mobile.After contorting our not so small bodies around Steve washed up in the egg cup sink while I stood in the shower to dry up.Due to the remote-ness of the location and the rain pattering on the roof it was a sleep-ness night for one of us!

Tuesday 18th

Another drizzly day, so we set off to drive to Wanaka, a busy little town on the lake, which is the base for many skiers / snow-boarders.We passed green rolling hills and lush shrubs until the dramatic snow-topped mountains came in to view.We were told that we could take a 2-hour round trip walk up to Roy's Peak, which is on top of one of the mountains.Once we got there we realised the mountain is 1500 metres tall and that we would need more than two hours to get anywhere near the summit and that it's more likely to be a 3-4 hour round trip.We made our way up, and up and up with no let up of any flat ground and although quite knackering the views were making it worthwhile.We continued up for 1.5 hours and we were not too far from the top, but Roy was just a little bit too peaky for us. We didn't fancy walking back down in the dark, particularly when we were dodging so many cow pats and rabbit droppings on the way up.Cooked-in again and watched a DVD - told you it was a deluxe version camper van!

Wednesday 19th

After Laurel and Hardy managed to work the plumbing and draining systems of the camper, we went into town to Puzzleworks where they have a 1.5km maze.The idea is that you reach the different coloured towers in each of the corners and then make your way to the exit.We laughed at the signs that said the average time to get through is 1.5 hours. That was until we were finding ourselves covering the same ground time and time again, looking for those ever elusive towers.Also went in to the illusions room to look at holograms, sloped rooms and some other mind boggling illusions.Drove back in to town and hired some bikes out to cycle part way round the lake.Beautiful blue sky and the reflections of the mountains in the lake look picture perfect.After a drink in the pub and sorting out our ski rentals for the next two days, we had another night in the sardine tin cooking and watching a DVD.

Thursday 20th

Set off for some skiing in Cardrona and drove up a huge mountain with never-ending steep winding roads.Poor Jucy was struggling a bit and you could hear the constant clanging of the cups and pots and pans as she shuddered her way up there.Got togged up and as we neared the top in the chair lift we could feel a sharp drop in the temperature.After not having skied for a few years Suz was a bit nervous, but it's like riding a bike and soon we were whizzing down the green runs!!There are also some half pipes and as it was the start of the winter games there were lots of snowboarders about to watch doing their snow board stuff.Spent most of the day there and on returning to the van and trying to start the engine we realised there was no power at all and the battery was totally flat.The AA bloke was from north London and we were saying about how different the scenery must be here compared to somewhere near the M25 motorway.Felt knackered so had a couple of beers in town and back for a good nights sleep.

Friday 21st

Ditto really from yesterday, but this time the weather wasn't quite so good and there was a fair amount of cloud obscuring the mountain - not ideal when you can't see where the edge of the mountain meets the cloud.As our thighs were killing us by the afternoon we decided to get back to Wanaka, drop the ski's off, buy a few birthday pressies for Stevo and head off on the drive to Queenstown, the adventure capital of the world - apparently!!It's quite a small place, but really lively and loads of bars and restaurants (…..and lots of 'awesome' dudes in stupid hats and 'hip' rebellious white people in dreadlocks). Noticed how many people have their arms in plaster or slings and how many youngsters are in wheelchairs, suppose that's the price you pay for being adventurous! As Steve doesn't want to wake up in the sardine tin on his birthday we booked in to a motel for a couple of nights, which was bliss.

Saturday 22nd

Happy birthday Steve!After a lazy start to the day we headed off in to town to have a browse around.Had a leisurely lunch and then booked in for a massage, which was much needed after carrying the heavy rucksacks, hard walks and skiing over the past few weeks.In the evening we went to the wharf for dinner which was a beautiful setting and had a great meal.Later the oldest swingers in town cut a rug at the local club and showed the youngsters a thing or two (yeah, like fatigue and over-emotion)

Sunday 23rd

''We're in the Nazi-killing business and Cousin, business is a boomin''

Decided that we needed a change in style and Suz spent 4 hours in the hairdressers for a new look. Steve spent 15 minutes and didn't look much different.Went into town for some lunch and a long discussion on whether we liked the new hairstyle or not, and then walked around the local botanical gardens, where there were lots of games of frizbee golf (similar to golf, but the hole is a big basket and obviously you play it with a frizbee and not a golf club and ball).In the evening, we went to the cinema to watch Inglorious Basterds - great Tarantino film.

Monday 24th

We were up before the birds to start our guided trip south to Milford Sound (it's not really a sound, but a fjord).In our state of the art coach, with seats angled towards the windows and glass topped roof, we were able to get some really good views.It rains two days in every three in these parts, but yet again we were lucky to have good weather.We had a knowledgeable guide and we stopped off at various points of beauty for some photo opportunities.As we got further into Fjordland and right into the mountains we were surprised at the many areas with snow banked up high against the side of the road….all of which were evidence of recent avalanches!!You could also see how much devastation is caused with the mass of tree and rock debris that comes tumbling down with it. On arriving at Milford Sound we boarded our boat to take the two-hour cruise with a nature guide to talk us through some fantastic geographical features.We saw countless waterfalls, massive overhanging rocks and an old earthquake fissure (and was then told that NZ is overdue an earthquake by 300 years!)The trees grow just above the sea line which is unusual, however, as it rains so much the rain washes the salt away and they then thrive in these conditions.We also saw a group of bottlenose dolphins swimming and diving around the boat and being really playful and also some seals lazing around on a rock, not showing quite the same level of enthusiasm.Again, we were astounded with the beauty of the place. It's truly an amazing scene.On the long trip back we noticed how many sheep stations there are and all those cute little lambs, fattening-up to go off to slaughter!We enjoyed a night out in the town with all those crazy snowboarders - yeah dude.

Tuesday 25th

A long trip onwards to Franz Josef Glacier on the west coast.It did start off as a fairly clear day, but unfortunately we were soon hit by driving rain and low cloud as we headed up into the mountains.The coastal road has been voted as one of the world's most scenic drives, so we were told by a local and the rain brought out the vibrant colours of the trees and shrubs.We were planning to go on a heli-hike, which is a helicopter ride that lands on the glacier for a 2 hour hike, which includes jumping over ice crevasses and walking through ice caves.We were hoping that the rain might let up, but unfortunately, the weather only got worse and the visibility was too poor.We stopped of to take a 30-minute walk in the pouring rain to at least get a glimpse of the glacier, but once we reached there it was too misty to really make it out at all.As the forecast for the next day wasn't sounding any better we reluctantly left it behind and continued our drive north.After 9 solid hours driving in the torrential rain and gale force winds, we decided enough was enough and because of the thought of sleeping listening to the rain pounding down on the roof and the chance of being blown over by the wind, we booked into a motel for the night.

Wednesday 26th

Continued our drive to Hamner Springs and stopped off at Punikaki beach to watch the surging, crashing waves and then on to see the Pancake rocks.These are a series of limestone rocks that have been eroded by the sea, which has left layers of rock that look like a stack of pancakes, hence the name obviously.There are also 'blow holes' and with each seventh wave you can see and hear the sea come rising up through them and smashing against the rock.Another long drive, but got to Hamner Springs in the afternoon in time to enjoy some relaxation in the thermal sulphur pools.Although the pools were 36-41 degrees, it was a freezing day, so we were running from one to the other.Back to the delights of the camper van for some more fun and games, trying to cook without standing on each others toes, doing a balancing act with the pots and pans, having to move everything just to get to the cutlery and trying not to freeze too much having to leave the back door wide open when the gas is on.We are such happy campers! (not)

Thursday 27th

Next stop Akorora, which is on a peninsula east of Christchurch.Although not quite as mountainous, we were still driving up and down the curving roads, which made it a long drive.There were a number of little harbours along the way and it was a very pretty route.Walked down the steep hill from our campsite and walked along the beach.Everything seems to have a 'closed' sign on it and there are only a handful of people around.We went into the local museum, where we got a bit more clued-up on the Maori culture and the local hero Frank Worsley, who navigated Endurance, the ship that Shackleton hoped to reach Antarctica on. (It didn't. After spending the best part of a year sitting locked in ice, the ship was crushed.Nice one Frank, I'll find my own way home!To be fair, he did manage to find his way to the Falklands on a life boat, which saved everyone). In the evening we didn't hold out much hope for much nightlife, and there were only two restaurants open in the whole town, but luckily we weren't the only ones eating there.In fact through much of NZ we haven't found too much nightlife - apart from Queenstown, which is why we made the most of it there.

Friday 28th

Actually woke up feeling quite excited as, for now, we have had our final night in the tinnery, trying to squeeze on to a stamp-sized bed, of walking half way across a field to use the facilities, and of sorting out the amazing plumbing systems of our little mobile love nest.Not sure how much we will miss our cosy little home that we've had for the last 11 days . We are sooooo looking forward to the one we have pre-booked for the Great Ocean Road.After acting out the ceremonious ritual of setting fire to the b****** thing and dancing naked round the charred remains, we booked into a good hotel by the airport and spread ourselves out in our huge space and enjoyed the little luxuries like having a bedside table and lamp, somewhere to hang clothes, having a table that you don't have to put up and down every five seconds, a toilet that hasn't got a funny smell as the cartridge hasn't been fitted properly, tea making facilities that you don't have to freeze while making and room to actually do it without knocking something over and of course the bathroom that you don't have to get fully clothed to get to!Oh how we loved and will now miss that little Jucy camper van.