Today we woke to at 7am to get ready for our day trip to the Perfume Pagoda. Our tour guide was called Thon and he was pretty cool and on the way gave us our itinerary for the day. After a two hour drive we arrived at the harbour (from observation a set of stairs into the river) and were split into groups to go on the boats. The tiny tin boats with mini plastic chairs were paddled by local women.

We drifted through the northern Vietnam mountains with water being so still and clear, the whole scene was doubled in its reflection. The sight was picturesque, locals fishing, floating fields of the traditional Vietnamese flower and cartoon looking water creatures jumping from one lily pad to another. It was beautiful and surreal although with the temperature being 34 degrees, there being no breeze or drinking water, it wasn't the most enjoyable of journeys despite the view.

After an hour we arrived at the bottom of a mountain, we left the boat and started our trek. First stop was a restaurant, we were so hot and hungry by this point that we were very happy to be told lunch was before the long walk. We had been put in a group with two older men, one from Korea (whom couldn't speak much English) and an Italian whom lived in Bangkok. Both lovely but it's safe to say the conversation wasn't very riveting over lunch.

The perfume pagoda was 3km up the mountain so after buying a large bottle of water each we began to brave the trek in the 34 degrees humidity. On the way we saw monkeys, dogs, chickens and all kind of exotic bugs. We passed temples where locals were having ceremonies and shacks made of bamboo which were people homes.

There were a few market stalls on the way up that sold items which Vietnamese people bought to come and pray in the spring time. They believe the purple pagoda is a place where the Gods can easily hear your prayers and they buy gifts to leave there depending on their needs. Our tour guide told us many people come and pray for baby boys to carry on the family name and these people bought dolls of baby boys to leave in the pagoda. There were also gold coins to ask for money and plastic corn to pray for a good harvest. The most disturbing things they sold were rats and squirrels in tiny net bags, animal cruelty at its best. Locals bought these and let them lose at the temple, as strong believers in karma they thought this would bring them good luck.

The pagoda itself was incredible. It is a natural cave and the temples inside made it pretty spectacular to wander around in. After an hour of looking around at the different prayer points we ventured back down the mountain visiting a few other temples on the way.

The boat ride back was more enjoyable as a breeze had appeared and the sun wasn't at its strongest. After a relaxing hour ride and then an extremely bumpy bus ride on the dirt tracks they call the highway, we were back in Hanoi. We ventured out for some dinner and a beer but retired early as the trek had truly taken it out of us and we wanted to be on top form for the Halong Bay cruise the following day.