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Yes this is the last blog entry from Argentina, dedicated to Riley Pullan, because of his interest in trains.
The final leg of our journey through Argentina involved high altitudes, bad roads and a train line. The train line is called 'tren a las nubes' (train to the clouds). It was designed by a Pennsylvanian engineer and took 20 years to build from 1921. It was originally used to service Borax mines in the mountains but is now only operated occasionally as a tourist attraction during April and May so we weren’t able to go on it. The line reaches an altitude of 4475 metres with 21 tunnels, 29 bridges, 12 viaducts, two 360 degrees loops and two switchbacks. The most photographed point is the Polvorilla viaduct which spans a gorge of 224 metres wide and 63 metres high and weighs over 1600 tonnes. It was built in Italy and assembled in Argentina in 1930. The viaduct is at an altitude of around 4200metres. It was well worth the drive on the bumpy and dusty ripio road to get to the viaduct even if it was a bit hard to breathe as we climbed a path to look down on it.
On this road and many others in Argentina the dust generated by passing vehicles has been bad but in the case of this road it was so bad we had to keep stopping and waiting for it to settle.
Throughout our travels in Argentina we have seen a lot of abandoned railway lines and derelict stations and only three trains actually running and then only as tourist attractions.
After the visit to the viaduct we had intended to drive up to the highest point on any national road system in the world at 5500 metres (on Ruta 40) but the weather took a turn for the worst so we decided to give that a miss. Peter was disappointed but not sure I was.
As we headed down to a more normal altitude we passed several cemeteries which sat eerily isolated from any settlement. We have passed many like this in Argentina and despite generally being away from civilisation the tombs have been heavily decorated with flowers (plastic), ribbons etc.
Characteristic of the scenery we have driven through in the last couple of weeks is the iconic cactus (Trichocereus Sp.). In a small church we visited we noticed strange wood panelling with lots of small regular holes. It turned out to be wood from this cactus (the only cactus species to provide wood).
All through Argentina we have seen Camelids roaming free in the countryside. The Camelid group includes Vicunas, Llamas, Guanacos and Alpacas and believe me when I say I have tried to tell them apart but it’s not easy.
After a couple of nights in a hostal and another trip into Salta (whilst we waited for our laundry to be done) we headed for the border through another high altitude pass (4780 metres). The road up had some amazing hairpin bends and crossed a small salt lake.
So what is our impression of Argentina. Well we have experienced an incredible range of weather conditions from freezing to over 40 degrees, from gale force winds to massive thunderstorms. We have driven on long straight endless roads and winding mountain tracks with scary hairpin bends, from good tarmac through consolidated gravel to potholed, washboard surface and mud and dust.
The driving in Argentina has to be commented on, they are crazy! Speed is the fastest you can possibly go or ridiculously slow probably because you are on the phone, drinking Mate tea (a national custom), smoking and having an animated conversation with your six passengers. Indicators are never used, but hazard flashers are used for, I’m turning right, left, stopping, going to do something really crazy or just forgotten to turn them off! Pedestrian crossings are a national waste of white paint; they have no meaning at all. Pretty much as we expected of South America!
Off all the roads we have driven on (excluding city and town roads) most, if not all, have had at least one if not several Gaucho Gil shrines and many have had a Correa Difunta shrine. (Something to do with driving standards?) We have stayed in a 4 star hotel, hostels, official campsites, by the road and in a municipal dump (that was by accident). Facilities have ranged from luxurious to very, very rustic.
We have seen glaciers, snow-capped mountains, crystal clear lakes, forests of monkey puzzle trees, thermal springs, petrified forests and endless windswept pampas and high level plains amongst numerous mountain ranges.
In the south we found the Argentinians to be a bit standoffish, possibly because of the horrendous weather they suffer but as we have travelled north we have met some lovely friendly Argentinians.
All in all it has been quite amazing.
The final leg of our journey through Argentina involved high altitudes, bad roads and a train line. The train line is called 'tren a las nubes' (train to the clouds). It was designed by a Pennsylvanian engineer and took 20 years to build from 1921. It was originally used to service Borax mines in the mountains but is now only operated occasionally as a tourist attraction during April and May so we weren’t able to go on it. The line reaches an altitude of 4475 metres with 21 tunnels, 29 bridges, 12 viaducts, two 360 degrees loops and two switchbacks. The most photographed point is the Polvorilla viaduct which spans a gorge of 224 metres wide and 63 metres high and weighs over 1600 tonnes. It was built in Italy and assembled in Argentina in 1930. The viaduct is at an altitude of around 4200metres. It was well worth the drive on the bumpy and dusty ripio road to get to the viaduct even if it was a bit hard to breathe as we climbed a path to look down on it.
On this road and many others in Argentina the dust generated by passing vehicles has been bad but in the case of this road it was so bad we had to keep stopping and waiting for it to settle.
Throughout our travels in Argentina we have seen a lot of abandoned railway lines and derelict stations and only three trains actually running and then only as tourist attractions.
After the visit to the viaduct we had intended to drive up to the highest point on any national road system in the world at 5500 metres (on Ruta 40) but the weather took a turn for the worst so we decided to give that a miss. Peter was disappointed but not sure I was.
As we headed down to a more normal altitude we passed several cemeteries which sat eerily isolated from any settlement. We have passed many like this in Argentina and despite generally being away from civilisation the tombs have been heavily decorated with flowers (plastic), ribbons etc.
Characteristic of the scenery we have driven through in the last couple of weeks is the iconic cactus (Trichocereus Sp.). In a small church we visited we noticed strange wood panelling with lots of small regular holes. It turned out to be wood from this cactus (the only cactus species to provide wood).
All through Argentina we have seen Camelids roaming free in the countryside. The Camelid group includes Vicunas, Llamas, Guanacos and Alpacas and believe me when I say I have tried to tell them apart but it’s not easy.
After a couple of nights in a hostal and another trip into Salta (whilst we waited for our laundry to be done) we headed for the border through another high altitude pass (4780 metres). The road up had some amazing hairpin bends and crossed a small salt lake.
So what is our impression of Argentina. Well we have experienced an incredible range of weather conditions from freezing to over 40 degrees, from gale force winds to massive thunderstorms. We have driven on long straight endless roads and winding mountain tracks with scary hairpin bends, from good tarmac through consolidated gravel to potholed, washboard surface and mud and dust.
The driving in Argentina has to be commented on, they are crazy! Speed is the fastest you can possibly go or ridiculously slow probably because you are on the phone, drinking Mate tea (a national custom), smoking and having an animated conversation with your six passengers. Indicators are never used, but hazard flashers are used for, I’m turning right, left, stopping, going to do something really crazy or just forgotten to turn them off! Pedestrian crossings are a national waste of white paint; they have no meaning at all. Pretty much as we expected of South America!
Off all the roads we have driven on (excluding city and town roads) most, if not all, have had at least one if not several Gaucho Gil shrines and many have had a Correa Difunta shrine. (Something to do with driving standards?) We have stayed in a 4 star hotel, hostels, official campsites, by the road and in a municipal dump (that was by accident). Facilities have ranged from luxurious to very, very rustic.
We have seen glaciers, snow-capped mountains, crystal clear lakes, forests of monkey puzzle trees, thermal springs, petrified forests and endless windswept pampas and high level plains amongst numerous mountain ranges.
In the south we found the Argentinians to be a bit standoffish, possibly because of the horrendous weather they suffer but as we have travelled north we have met some lovely friendly Argentinians.
All in all it has been quite amazing.
- comments
Dave and Sandra Great update, shame you couldn't get a ride on the railway and drive up the road. The viaduct looks really impressive. What a fantastic adventure! Really envious about Peter's sun tan (salt lake picture) :)
gerty581 You should see Lesley's all over!
Paul & Jayne How does Gerty cope with the altitude, what is she doing to the gallon and how much a gallon is it out there? I suspect also with how many miles you must have done that an oil change and service is due? I am really impressed with Gerty plus both of you two, it sounds a fantastic adventure. And to think we believe that we have extremes of weather in England! Best wishes
Paul and Jayne Actually, the one on the right looks just like Jayne bending over wearing her wooly pyjama romper suit!
Paul & Jayne You be careful what you sit on Pete!
Paul Is that Lesley and Pete riding?
Paul So that's how you both have got so brown; a weekly bath in the river!
pAT (ALIAS mUM) iT ALL SOUNDS WONDERFUL. iI CANT GET OVER THE SCENERY ABSOLUTELY STUNNING.
gerty581 Hi Paul, She does feel the altitude, bit of power loss ( but at the low speeds we do, not a problem) but can smoke, black, when pulling away. Over 4K, bit like a train. The 2 times we have stopped over night at over 4K metres, it was below freezing in the morning and we started very hesitantly with lots & lots of white smoke! Servicing has been relatively easy, every town as at least one 'Lubicentre' a small workshop with a pit and do oil/filter changes. Have changed engine oil twice, gearbox & transfer box oil once. Fuel and air filters also changed. I grease the propshafts once a month and have greased the wheel bearings. Keeping fingers crossed!! We get about 25 to the gallon on good roads and 20 on the dirt roads, sure this must drop at altitude, but haven't been able to work it out. Whilst the cost of living here is generally similar to home, fortunatly fuel is about £1 / gallon or slightly less. Pete
gerty581 Paul How much are you going to pay me not to send your comment to Jayne? Lesley
gerty581 How did you Guess? Lesley