Another full day of discovery and wonder here in Siem Reap. A late start, not being collected till 9am and we drove about an hour to Kbal Spean. On the way we stopped at a local village where they weave baskets. We watched this lady cooking something in a big pot, we were told it was for the pigs. On arrival at our destination, we grabbed our gear and hiked 1.5km uphill, over boulders and around trees to the River of 1000 Lingas. Lingas (dancing girls) have been carved into the riverbed. There is also a waterfall here (just a small one) but the mist was nice and refreshing and I went and stuck my head under it to cool down. Of course what goes up, must go and down and down we went. It's always much tricker working your way back down unfortunately.

At the base we had lunch. At all the temples you are surrounded by vendors, mainly children and young women begging you to buy something, anything and it can be tiring but it is part of being a tourist in a country like this. You just have to say no and keep walking. If you show any interest at all they will continue tagging along, begging, begging and begging some more. Had a lovely Khmer curry for lunch and then we visited the Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity. The tour took about 2 hours where we told about the different animals they had there and how they came to be and why they could or couldn't be released. When you hear the stories, you think they are fighting a losing battle again wildlife traders who are trapping and selling these animals for pets, traditional medicine or food.

After a cold drink we drove to Banteay Srei which is known as the pink temple and is famous for its stone carvings in the wall, the best preserved in Angkor. A smaller temple but so much to look at. The name means "Citadel of the Women" and people believe it was built by a woman because the carvings are so delicate. There was also a lovely reflection in the pond next to it.

We had a stop at the Landmine Museum which was very interesting and worthwhile. The collection was started by a young man who originally fought for the Khmer Rouge before defecting to the Vietnamese side and then when the war ended started de-mining areas. He kept the ordinances and hence the museum began. He now has a NFP organization and they continue to clear fields of mines so villages can reclaim land. Very harrowing reading some of the stories but very honest.

We stopped at a roadside stall where they make palm sugar and got to try one of the lollies they make. Oh so sweet, but very good. Bought a small jar of them to bring home. They also had palm sugar spread but I thought that could be dangerous.

From here we finished at Banteay Kdei Temple and stayed for sunset. Viv didn't manage to make it to the top, fear of heights too much. The temple itself is in OK condition, but the surrounding walls are in ruins. There were a few people up here for sunset and as soon as the sun hit the tree tops they were all making their way down the steep stairs. There were beautiful colours in the sky, I would have liked to stay longer but didn't want to keep the others waiting.

Back to the hotel and didn't feel like eating. Had a lovely hot shower and then splurged on another massage - legs and hands and here I am. I think I will be all massaged out by the time this trip ends…or not.