Japan (part I) - Kobe, Tokyo, Nikko, Hakone/Mt Fuji & Kyoto

If I'm honest, Japan wasn't at the top of my list of places to visit when we started planning this trip, but it just seemed like a good idea as we were going to be in this part of the world. In fact, it turned out to be the biggest surprise of the trip so far and I am so, so glad we came...

We both love the place. From the people, to the food, to the beautiful "changing colour leaves", we discovered something new, weird and wonderful every day. Travelling around also turned out to be pretty straight forward despite the significant language barrier.

So, after a bit of time off from blog writing (we're about 2 months behind now!), here's my bit on Japan...

We survived the two day ferry crossing from China (after a very wobbly start), and arrived into Kobe port early on 10th November and proceeded through the lengthy immigration and customs queue (we're getting quite used to that now).

After almost losing our suspect emergency packet of beef noodles, we were finally waved through and checked in to our hotel where we spent the rest of the day planning our 3-week stay in Japan. Apart from the essential railpass that we'd bought back in the UK (thanks for the tip Catherine!) we really were starting from scratch and quickly realised that November is one of the most popular months with Japanese tourists (because of those "changing colour leaves") and that the current exchange rate is not particularly friendly to Europeans right now...

With some perseverance, and a few hours of internet searching later, we managed to book accommodation for the next week and sorted out some necessary admin. It's surprising how much time this stuff takes when you're not sat in front of a computer every day!

The following morning, we set off for Tokyo on the high speed "bullet" train (or 'Shinkansen' as they're known over here). We'd already had a taste of high speed train travel from Beijing to Tianjin, but this experience was something else. The train stations are immaculate and filled with Harrod's-like food counters and hundreds of small cosy restaurants. On this occasion, we didn't stop, but instead picked up the mandatory Bento Box - a posh packed-lunch with yummy selection of japanese food inside (all the japanese seem to travel with one) - and headed for the platform. My favourites were the "gyoza" - Japanese-style steamed dumplings filled with minced pork, cabbage, onion and garlic - although slightly dangerous when eaten covered in soy sauce with chopsticks on a moving train ...

While preparing to board, we had our first glimpse of the super duper order and organisation that we were going to see everywhere on our travels around the country. The Japanese are even better than the English when it comes to queuing. Whether it's waiting for a train, bus or even on the underground, everyone waits politely in a line (marked clearly on the platform) and only gets on when it's his/her turn. It was fascinating to watch. The bullet trains glide elegantly into the station every few minutes and, once the guard is happy that everything is as it should be, they open their doors and then leave again a few minutes later, exactly on time. I love it.

Our railpasses meant that we could generally turn up an hour before the next train and still get reserved seats, which was brilliant for us. The trains themselves are also super comfy and we soon got used to the Japanese etiquette of asking the person behind before reclining your seat - I don't think I've ever been asked for permission before! Another regular feature of our train travel was the constant bowing of the train guard and hostesses as they entered and left each carriage. Although quite amusing for us in the beginning, this was just one of the many signs of the deep respect that seems to run through Japanese culture and society.

In just over 3 hours, we were in Tokyo and thrown head first into this neon-lit, high-rise, bright, busy, bustling capital. Although they have a severe shortage of space in the city, with a population of nearly 13 million, the chaos is very much organised and people still somehow seem to manage to be polite to each other when they are cramming an extra 20 passengers onto an already bursting underground train.

We had a great few days here. Starting on our first night with drinks and yakitori (various parts of a chicken - grilled) in Roppongi with a good friend of Catherine, we were given an insider's guide to Tokyo which set us up for our 3-day visit - thanks Kris!

We did the tourist thing and enjoyed a monorail trip around Tokyo Bay and over Rainbow Bridge, took in the views of the city from the top of the government metropolitan building and visited Sony and Toyota's showrooms to check out their latest technologies, including a ride in a driverless electric car. The city has a complex yet excellent transport system and our railpasses really came into their own - not just for the bullet trains but also on the pricey local trains.

We had great fun ordering food in restaurants using a vending machine (pictures only!), venturing up to bars on the 5/6/7th floors of buildings (there's no space for them on the street), and generally deciphering menus with the polite and smiley waiting staff. Nights out in the Shibuya and Shinjuku districts were crazy, including being part of the crowds on the infamous pedestrian crossings - total mahem! Our great find was Kichiri, a modern Japanese restaurant where we sat on the floor in our socks (the first of many occasions) in our own private booth and enjoyed fabulous food. It was one of my favourite evenings in Japan (that is, after some indecision on my part about venturing up to the 7th floor of a random building)...

An amusing feature we came across in Japanese service culture was the constant, high-pitched salutations and chattering from waitresses/sales assistants before, during and after being served. Apparently, they're just niceties and they do it to everyone, but I tended to leave most shops giggling after the millionth "Arigato gosai mas"!

Our brief glimpse of the fast-pace of Tokyo life was complemented by an introduction to Zazen meditation (Buddhist practice introduced to Japan from China many many moons ago). In an effort to come back to Europe as a calm, collected individual (ah hem), we thought we'd give this a try and spent an interesting morning sitting cross-legged in silence. Charlie was actually quite good and managed to stay quiet and still for the whole time... ;-)

From Tokyo we headed North to Nikko, a gorgeous little town in the mountains where Autumn had arrived and we had our first experience of the "changing colour leaves" (sounded much cuter when pronounced by our Japanese host). Unfortunately, the rest of Japan had also decided to join us and the beautiful temples and shrines for which this place is known (including the Toshogu mausoleum of the first Shogun of Japan) were overrun with tourists. We soon abandoned the main complex and headed off in the opposite direction. This tourist-avoidance strategy seems to be the way forward for us as we had a brilliant afternoon walking in the rain alongside a beautiful river and discovering smaller peaceful shrines as well as a line of 100 red-bibbed Jizo statues (Buddhist protectors of children, women and travellers).

Our short stay here was really made by the friendly Japanese owners of our little guesthouse who decided to organise a traditional dinner for us and the other 4 guests on our last night. We were treated to Sukiyaki, a type of steamed hotpot consisting of lots of vegetables, the staple tofu, pork, rice/noodles, and the raw egg which we had to dip everything into... They were such kind hosts and there was plenty of laughing over dinner. The washing up was eventually decided over a game of 'scissors, paper, stone'. Highly amusing, except for the fact that I lost...

Back on the train again and we made our way south to Hakone and the home of the magnificent Mount Fuji. Here we spent a lovely few days taking the train, funicular, cable car and boat around the Hakone area checking out the stunning Autumn colours. Our hotel, the Fuji-Hakone Guesthouse was fantastic. Decked out with the traditional tatami mats and basic futon, we ended up spending a lot of time hanging out in our fashionable Yakatas (Japanese-style dressing gown). We also had access to their indoor and outdoor natural hot spring baths (onsen). Having our own private onsen was such a treat - taking a hot bath outside under the stars and not having to share it with a bunch of naked Japanese men/women (my reputation with naked spas is well known...).

Bathing seems to be a favourite past-time/obsession of the Japanese. Every town, particularly those located near to natural hot springs, has its own complex full of hot steaming baths (average temperature around 37degrees C). This penchant for public (nude) bathing isn't just about keeping clean (you have to wash and shower off before getting in) but it is also seen as a social activity as well as a way to relax the mind and meditate so as to emerge refreshed and serene. (We generally got out feeling a bit dizzy and bright red from the heat, but slept really well and were the cleanest backpackers you've ever seen!)

The highlight of the Hakone trip had to be our meeting with Mount Fuji. Apparently, it is quite rare to see it in its entirety as it usually remains covered in mist or cloud, but at the end of a day of sightseeing and as the sun was setting, the grey clouds started to clear... We hopped straight onto the cable car up to one of the higher stations and were rewarded with the most amazing views of Fuji-San (endearing term used by the Japanese meaning 'friend') in the stunning colours of sunset - see the piccies!

Still with me? This is getting quite long, so will keep it brief from here...

Heading north to Kyoto, we started by staying in a couple of hostels. Overall, we were really impressed with the standard of hostels in Japan. Reflecting the wider Japanese culture they were spotlessly clean, neat, tidy, friendly and well organised. The Japanese take so much pride in their home and work environment, it seems they are always cleaning!

Even though the hostels were also great for the facilities - laundry, free wireless etc - neither of us are real "backpackers" (Charlie's too old now and I'm just not cool enough) and we felt more at home staying in the local ryokan guesthouses where we could absorb more of the culture and do more of the futon/tatami mat thing (Charlie could also spend more time hanging out in his kimono dressing gown).
Kyoto is famous for its many shrines and temples and while trying not to blow our budget (with the current exchange rate, entrance fees soon added up) we visited the amazing Kiyomizu temple - a huge wooden structure set in the hills overlooking the city. It was quite fascinating to see how important the shrines are to the Japanese - from promoting happy relationships to getting rid of particular troubles - and they take this stuff really seriously. I have to admit that even i couldn't help myself giving a quick bow to the shrine for easy child birth! (for future use only...)

Getting out of the city and in a vain attempt to get some exercise after too much great food, we visited the bamboo forest for a bit of walking and then did a cycling day trip in the Kibiji district. This was one of my favourite days in Japan - a gorgeous sunny day with great scenery, flat paved cycle ways passing through fields and along rivers and, most satisfying of all, with no other tourists... We stopped at small shrines and temples along the way (of course) and found a lovely, peaceful place where the only sound was from the temple priests out sweeping the stones from the courtyard.

Back in the city, we finished our stay in Kyoto with a walk through the Gion district, home of the Geishas. We were lucky enough to see several on their way to evening appointments, but it wasn't quite the experience I had been expecting... These poor girls were surrounded by tourists (mostly Japanese) all pointing cameras in their faces. One guy got so close with his mobile phone camera that I thought he was going to smudge her white make up. It was incessant, and no different to the paparazzi that hound today's celebrities. I felt really sorry for them, although was slightly more amused by the discomfort of the two elderly gentlemen they were escorting... I had been so keen to get a photo of a geisha (which I guess makes me just as bad as the rest of them), but after taking a couple of blurred shots, i was so taken aback and embarrassed by the camera frenzy surrounding the girls that we stood back and watched the chaos from a distance.

On that note, I think I'll call it a day for now. Japan - part II is on it's way if you haven't fallen asleep yet...