The Galápagos Islands conjure images of a paradise lost, a gateway to existential enlightenment, where human kind and animal kind can live in synthesis.
To the budget traveller it also conjures up dollar signs and silent tears when looking at the bank balance.
Temptation was too much and both Simon and I decided to justify the expense with a) they might close the Galapagos b) it might get more expensive in the future c) it's a pre wedding honeymoon d) we just won't look at the bank balance.
Flying into Galapagos we were met with a dusty, baron, cactus festooned, desert scape. Our imaginations had led us to luscious, rich forests so it was met with slight surprise. Once on land and out of the airport you're met with a boat to take you to the main island and here is where the magic starts. Iguanas sit on sun drowned rocks, pelicans perch on the boat roof, the crystal waters show you shoals of fish dancing in perfect unison through the currents; all within inches of your backpack, centimetres from your flip flop. No flinches or fear. It was clear here for the first time I've seen, humans are not a threat. Simon and I were somewhat speechless as we trundled our way to town. Giant tortoises were overtaken, iguanas scuttled. Everywhere you looked nature was present.
The main hub on the central island is Puerto Ayora and it was here we decided to base ourselves in order to search and scavenge for the best bargain cruise around the unpopulated islands of the Galapagos. It became clear that 'bargain' is the wrong word and it's more a case of the least painful. Simon's honed bargaining skills served us well although not after his sweaty pavement pounding. His hopes of acclimatisation still not realised after 3 months. I mentioned that my afternoon of sitting in an air con cafe supping delicious strawberry juices solved the sweat problem but that seemed to make him rather more irritable. Anyway, with his banter and a small hint of flirtation he secured us a deal for a 6 day tour around the southern islands which also had the best chance of hammerhead sharks. Our 72 foot sailing boat, the Encantada, would be home for us and 9 others for the trip of a lifetime. We were like kiddies in a Apple shop!
With a day to spare before launch date we chose to visit the giant tortoises that roam a large area of the main island and clamber through some lava tunnels. The local bus would have been fabulous if it weren't for the very helpful bus driver taking his own initiative and go off his designated route to the airport to take us the 2km to the main area. A rather unhinged German lady decided to clear her sinuses and spit the result out of the window in disgust and vocalise her utter disdain for 'tourists' and in particular us! A rational conversation was clearly out the window along with the phlegm and so we promptly disembarked and left her to wallow in her insane rage.
You can't not love a tortoise. I agree there isn't a lot of action or thrill but they are peaceful, calm creatures plodding their lumpy selves to the next tasty clump of grass. The size of the Galapagos tortoise however is hard to comprehend. It's as though you have suddenly been transported to Lilliput. A metre off the ground, two metres in length and a neck that extends unnaturally far. If they did have speed they would be frightening! The fields were dotted with large dark mounds for miles; lying in muddy puddles, sitting next to herds of cows, ambling across roads, hiding in bushes. A tortoise infestation!
On our return journey we were lucky enough to hitch a ride with a chap and his son. We hopped out near our hostel and waved them off only for Simon to find his wallet missing!! He whistled an ear popping whistle and ran like Bolt after the car. I pottered in the vague direction but when Simon relayed he had found the car, searched it and it was without doubt not there. The only place it could have gone was in the road when he got out the car. His loud whistle would have attracted enough attention so of course it was nowhere to be seen. Two love struck teenagers saw Simon clasping his head and looking mortified and asked us what had happened and when hearing the story said we should take it the island radio! Island life isn't London life that's for sure. Minutes later we are being interviewed by the retro DJ (with obligatory mullet and trousers that were too tight) and it was agreed he would put it out on radio Galapagos. Come back tomorrow. The slow walk home was not a happy one. Poor Simon berated himself for losing $300 and after hitting himself with a proverbial stick finally agreed that where there's hope there's the possibility of someone handing it in. Besides the best adventures always come from adversity. It makes other people feel better about their clangers at the very least.
Before the wallet incident we had scoured the streets trying to find a fishing trip. Sports fishing costs beyond the ridiculous mad so by good fortune alone we met a man who knew a man whose friend was a fisherman. Simon was escorted to the small fishing harbour where Lucas was found and who agreed that he would let us gringos join him in a real days fishing! The authentic experience. Simon's request for a rod and line were smiled upon as these hardcore fisherman use nothing but hands, twine and hook (just like The Old Man and the Sea). The next morning at dawn we met Lucas with his round belly and gappy smile holding two rods, bait and a bag of limes. He herded us into his skiff, made sure I was sitting in the shade and off we went. Marlin, tuna, grouper all lingered in the waters but there was never a guarantee. It wasn't long before launch when we slowed speed and Simon's rod was set up and dangling. Lucas was the perfect host and although this was a valuable days fishing for him he gave us his undivided attention. I had taken a sea sickness pill just in case and for most of the trip lolled in a medication snooze only waking up when a wave nearly saw me overboard. The 5 hours at sea in a semi conscious state and completely soaked meant the factor 55 had washed away and I was left with one of my finer burns yet! Bright pink leggings starting mid thigh and ending and the ankle. A beautiful catch... Simon's fishing prowess meant within 20minutes we were one tuna up (and one happy Simon). Best efforts and the usual one that got away meant it was the only catch but with a little break on a beach with the freshly caught tuna filleted and diced with onion, lime and salt we had the freshest ceviche of our lives on the cleanest beach and with the most hospitable fishermen we have had the chance to spend a day with. Despite my tablet coma it was a pretty special spot.
Later that day and after much a chuckle at my new patterned legs we went back to DJ Mullet. Simon's jaw metaphorically hit the floor as he presented us with THE wallet. Cards present, $300 not. Not a shock and overall it was good news. Being two credit cards short would have been more problematic. It wasn't any surprise however that later that day DJ Mullet and his lovely lady were dining in a nice little fish restaurant....
Food on the Galapagos is pretty spectacular. All the fruits of the ocean are lined up in a street full of small restaurants each with a blazing grill to cook your chosen victim just as you like it. Langoustines, lobster, tuna, grouper, snapper....all mouth-wateringly scrumptious. Simon's never been a great fish eater (more just a catcher) but the conversation was minimal at dinner time.
The harbour where fisherman moor is a hive of activity and where a human and animal relationship is never more apparent. The fisherman take his catch to thick concrete tables to fillet and prepare and to sell to the patient crowd. Pelicans snatch the discarded fins and heads, other birds fight for their scraps, dogs sit with wagging tails and sea lions bark and shout for the skins and tails. All of them within the same 2 square metres and with respect for each other; waiting for the rewards. Whilst the town itself is functional and somewhat concrete you can't beat the company. This is the type of live entertainment you get in the Galapagos.
It was time for our cruise on the Encantada and with nutty German lady's and lost wallets we were looking forward to being on the open sea. Our boat was bright pillar box red with shined wooden decks and a tall mast. Our room was the size of a coffin but with logistics it was feasible for two 6 footers to get dressed but only with one sitting on the toilet and one standing. There were a few awkward moments of the two of us being wedged in a doorway or waking up in my bunk with my head almost in the bathroom and Simon picking up the soap from the shower floor. Luckily we both found the whole affair rather amusing. Well until the air con broke down. Nights in our coffin were HOT to the point where the some passengers, Simon included, could bare it no more and slept on mattresses in the dining room, on deck and anywhere else where a breeze could be found. Sleeping was tricky anyway with the rolling of the ship and narrow bunks meaning trying to learn to sleep with white knuckles wrapped around the bed sides.
On the plus side the food was sublime. Three course meals, pancakes coming out of our ears. The trick was to eat dinner with a sea sickness pill in order to not revisit the feats during the rocky night. Poor Simon was not fairing well. It was usually just after dinner and our navigation to the next island had started that Simon's gills looked a little green and with bile rising with the waves he was usually in bed by 9! It didn't affect the experience however. And all of us saw the funnier side. Our fellow sailors were from all corners of the world, all with different stories and from different generations making for good conversation and great laughs. Englishman James, 23 and having an incredible fiesta around South America. French Canadian Jean and Jackie taking their annual 6 month exploration. Glamorous Sabine from Paris enjoying her retirement and freedom. Hard grafter Sabine number 2 having finished a month of iguana counting. Big hearted American Seth and Michelle taking 5 weeks to see the best of nature. UK water junkies Frankie and Andy with their wealth of underwater experience. A good crew all being led through the Galapagos experience by Juan our passionate Ecuadorian guide. Simon was particularly glad of the guys in order to talk tech and jump off the boat roof with. A relief from just girl talk! On one particular roof jumping session Jean spotted a fin in the distance. Andy's experience meant he knew it was an Orca! And not just one... Juan told us it was a rare thing to see them and the captain was instructed to make full steam to the spot where 3 killer whales were chasing this linchpin of fresh sea lion! Birds circled picking up the left overs whilst the large whales rose and dived just metres away. All of us were shrieking and jumping (Well, ok. That was me). A very magic moment for us and the crew.
The time onboard as special as it was with its sunsets, dolphin companions and full sails were surpassed by what was under the water. Each day involved several hours of snorkelling in different locations and each with its own unique vista. Coral walls, rocky cliffs, crevices through small islands, white sand beaches, calm silent coves all revealing their own inhabitants. The Galapagos offers experiences you'll be struggling to find elsewhere. We swam with hammerheads and white tipped sharks one day, the next we swam within a small posse of penguins that darted amongst us like bullets. We played with sea-lion puppies curious to see what a human looked like. We saw giant turtles serenely fly through the green blue nothing. Giant rays glided skilfully over rocky outcrops and nestled in sandy bottoms. Pelicans dived to catch sardines. Enormous 15 metre wide shoals danced and divided and reformed around us. All magical. All unique. All inspiring and wondrous.
The inland experiences on the islands themselves offered more curious creatures. From giant pink iguanas, to long black swimming iguanas, bright red crabs with blinking eyes, pink flamingoes, enormous green crickets, the famous Darwin finches and of course the famous and hilarious Blue Footed Boobie!! Of course simon snorted every time a comment was made at how marvellous the Boobie was, how beautiful the Boobie was, "oh there's a Boobie". But then what did we expect?!
By far my most favourite animal was the sea lion. Without fear of humans these creatures are curious, full of fun and personality. Just like dogs they seem to love games and whether in shore or in the water they want to get up close and have a good look. Only days old babies and their mums would let you take photos and coo over the stumbling bundle of joy. The boss of the group though; the dominant male was a force to be reckon with and would keep an eye out. The Galapagos tattoo is not uncommon where male sea lions have nipped at tourists getting too close or even touching his ladies. Nature is still nature even in paradise.
By the end of our adventure we were all boobied and iguana'd out and for Simon it was a relief to be on stable ground. Once recovered we headed to a canyon just a small taxi boat ride outside of town. Here a 50ft drop could be found from a vertical cliff edge into clear water. Children dropped like raindrops into the pool below. Well children, and Simon. Much to my horror as I clambered down to the pool Simon was clambering up to the highest point. He didn't take long in throwing himself into thin air. With the geriatric cliff diver being quite an unusual event Simon resurfaced to a round of applause and people looked at me with a look of a mixture of sympathy and being quite impressed. Obviously once was not enough. On the walk home it became apparent that an old war wound had clearly been re-wounded. On his thirtieth birthday, many moons ago, his ability to leap from a height had been inappropriately used (some of you already know the story) and had ended in a cracked coccyx. A souvenir from the Galapagos. An inability to sit, ride a bike, travel on a bus without wincing...
Leaving Galapagos was hard. Our final day on dry land was spent on perfect white sand surrounded by thick trees dotted with pelicans and iguanas hiding in the shade. We had a final swim in the aqua sea and held hands all the way home. There is a romance in this paradise. Between mankind and animal kind. Between the sea and the land. Between nature and progress. It kind of rubs off.