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(L) We said we wanted to leave "no later than 9am" but as usual were up, packed, dressed and had eaten our left over stir-fried veg & gnocchi with a poached egg by 7am, now just have to wait for it to get light enough!
Finally by 7.45 it was light enough for us to walk down to the car park - which is below the Porta Romana - and it took us 5 mins to the elevators then a quick trip down into the car park where we had a moments hesitation as to the exact location of the car! Phew, the car is still right where we left it, intact and unharmed. We had to use the residents pass to exit the car park and then made our way back to our apartment on Vicolo Albani. I managed to reverse the car right up the lane so we were parked right at the front door and we quickly loaded up, left keys and carpark pass on the table and off we set at 8am!
Driving out of town was easy - just follow the blue arrows! I had spoken to Sabrina, our hostess, when she came to get payment last night and she assured us that we had not entered any of the ZTL areas whilst driving to and from the apartment so hopefully we don't get a huge fine in the months to come. For anyone thinking of driving in Italy I would urge you to do some research on the ZTL (zona traffico limitato - or restricted zone) because there are cameras watching you and fines to be paid if you unwittingly stray into a forbidden zone.
If you have read our blog you would have noticed that we prefer the road less travelled. Usually it's the journey that matters and not so much the destination however today we decided we wanted to get to Bagni di Lucca as quickly as possible so we got Jane to plot a course on the Autostrada. Orvieto to Florence was 1 & 1/2 hours and from there we headed west with great road signs and Debra constantly reading out Jane's instructions to arrive in Bagni di Lucca at 10.45.
Not sure if we mentioned this on our initial trip out of Florence but when you first get on the autostrada you have to go through a toll plaza where (if you don't have telepass -which I'm guessing is the same as E-toll in Australia) you have to take a "biglietto" (ticket) and when exiting the autostrada you pull up to a booth where you put your ticket in the slot and a digital display tells you how much you owe... money in and yes it does give change. Our first experience however we had taken the ticket and when we exited approached the toll booth which was manned.... I handed over €5 as we had seen no prices displayed and the operator barked "ticket" at me!! Oh, sorry..... Deb fumbled around in her purse and produced the ticket, that trip was €3.50 from Florence to Siena. Next trip from Montepulciano onramp to Orvieto we felt quite confident approaching the toll plaza and dropped our €3.10 into the coin basket when prompted - "Arrivederci" the automated voice ever so politely exclaimed as the toll bar was raised. This trip we were on the highway for 2 hours and had changed from the A1 to the A11 without any sign of a plaza but when we took the exit for Capannori there was the toll plaza and it cost us €16 - I slid in a 20 and received €4 in 50c pieces for change!!! Signs exiting this plaza were not great and we took the wrong turn but managed to duck into a driveway and get pointed in the right direction.
We parked the car, checked out where the apartment and the parking are then found a (the only) place open for a cuppa and something to eat. Not much English is spoken in these parts and as I'm behind in the cash payment spreadsheet it was my turn to brave ordering.... I managed ok but when it was time to pay I wanted to use all the coins that are weighing down my bag so I approached the counter ... the place was packed with very happy chatty but loud Italians and the woman that served us wasn't at the counter so I had to repeat our order to the girl there - which I might add I did in Italian!! yay me!! €5.60 for 2 caffe lattes & 2 focaccia with mozzarella, tomato and lettuce (yeah say that in Italian!!!) wow that's so cheap!
From here we moved the car from the 1 hour spot up to the free 24 hour park that our lovely apartment owner Debra Kolkka had given me directions to.... only a short 5 minute walk to the apartment. I will just quickly say here that during our search for places to visit in Italy we discovered Bagni di Lucca (co-incidentally both Deb and I had seen the place independently which is our freaky way!) and from there I read the blog that Debra Kolkka has on the area and she mentions her apartment in the blog..... she is an Australian who travels in Italy every year and obviously as she owns this apartment spends time here - lucky woman!!
I sent her an email just asking if the place was available or if not where would she recommend and as they say "the rest is history"!
With the car safely parked we wandered through the adjoining park and took one or two photos - yeah right!! It's all just so picturesque! We did a bit of a loop and ended up back at the Bar Italia where Debra K had told us her friend Rina would meet us to take us to the apartment. Only problem is that we were supposed to ring her and our phone sims for some reason will only let us use data and text each other - probably user error but nothing we've been too worried about because we haven't really needed to call or text anyone too much this trip. I approached the girl in the bar (who happened to be the same girl that had taken my lunch payment at the shop across the street) and in a very disjointed conversation managed to ask her if she could please ring Rina for me as my phone wasn't working. She pressed in the numbers and handed me her phone and Rina seemed to know who I was the minute she answered even though she doesn't speak a word of English!
Within 5 minutes she was at the Bar to walk us across the street and show us in and around the apartment with both Deb and I using our limited Italian to convey to her our thanks and understanding of her instructions.
This is a gorgeous apartment right on the river with an oh so stunning view from the balcony and yes! we have a washing machine! We have been rather astonished to find that self contained here and even in Ireland does not necessarily include a washing machine.... one of the reasons we do like to stay in self catering accommodation when travelling for 5 weeks!
Once settled in I decided to take a quick walk about but Deb chose to stay at home. I was only gone about half an hour but did take a few photos along the way. Meanwhile Deb sitting on the balcony watched someone get a ticket for parking on the road, at a stop sign.... we had watched cars park there all afternoon and had commented to each other that "they just park anywhere"!! Guess I won't be doing that!
Another thing we've noticed in Italy is that the places we've stayed don't have microwaves - probably a good thing but we're so used to just popping something in the microwave to heat.
(D) Continuing on Liane's earlier comments about general things when travelling, in both Ireland and Italy we have been constantly blessed with perfect showers (water hot, pressure fabulous) and comfy beds - combined with the unseasonably fantastic weather we have had everywhere, I don't think you can ask for much better than that!
Both Liane and I were in some ways regretful that we took the "quick route" up the Autostrada from Orvieto however we also both agree that it was a good decision under the circumstances. We have two full days here in Bagni di Lucca and plan to wander some off roads around the area here. As we keep reminding each other - you can't see everything so you need to pick and choose and perhaps enjoy a little more depth in fewer places..... it works for us anyway! We may not have seen every hill town there is to see (what - no San G???) but we really loved spending the time we did in both Siena and Orvieto, along with our side excursions to Montepulciano and Civita Bagnoregio so I think we've actually covered that genre pretty well.... for this trip anyway!
Liane is handling the car driving with remarkable ease, for example she overtook someone on the Autostrada like a real Italian on the way up here! I think we've only had a couple of instances where she's appreciated my reminders to stay right, and/or to look left entering a roundabout etc, as most of the time she does it quite naturally..... I'm full of admiration I can tell you!
One of the first things we did on arrival at our gorgeous apartment was get a pea soup bubbling on the stove, using the yummy looking split peas we'd bought at the markets in Oriveto. Liane mentioned when she first put them on that she'd never come across cleaner, fresher ones, none of the detritus/dusty stuff floated off as usually happens. Gran would have been horrified it was ham-less I suppose but the soup looks and smells delicious and we are both very much looking forward to dinner time!
- comments
Rodd Halkett/Liane Michell that works for me
Rodd Halkett/Liane Michell Pretty!
Rodd Halkett/Liane Michell wow, this is postcard stuff!!!
Rodd Halkett/Liane Michell Very Homely
Rodd Halkett/Liane Michell I definitely wouldn't fit lol
Mary Kathryn I'm so impressed with your ability to communicate even with broken Italian. Also your drive certainly looked beautiful so I'd suggest not worrying about taking such a direct route! I'd love to hear more about the "time clock" you were supposed to have in your car. I've never heard of such a thing!
Rodd Halkett/Liane Michell Wouldn't this be a great idea in Australia.....it ain't gonna happen though!
Debbie Beautiful
Debbie These signs are used in France too.
Rodd The ZTL area's look a little scary.....no one realises all the study and hard work Liane did prior to the holiday learning the language.....well done baby!!