So Antarctica was amazing. Actually, genuinely awesome in the original 'full of awe' sense and not just the surfer style 'whoaaaaa' type way. Although it could be that too.

I made notes while I was on the boat with the intention of transcribing for my Blog. I like using words like 'transcribing' because it makes me feel like a proper writer, which in turn makes me feel important. And I really like feeling important.

So for the first couple of days where nothing happened I'll copy my notes word for word, and after that I'll expand a little so that we can all get a better picture of the full on Awesomeness of my trip. OK? Good.

Day 1:

Ushuaia and the search for waterproof trousers - $30US rental and $200 deposit?? No thanks. Paid 55 pesos for my own pair in discount shop instead. Feel thoroughly pleased with myself. Nothing can go wrong.

Boarded the MV Ushuaia just after 4pm. Boat seems comfy and most importantly has a bar. Champagne reception and food. Happy Laura. Noted the 'unclaimed territory' in one section of Antarctica and intend a take-over mission - Lauraland. Have allowed Craig [fellow passenger - from Southampton but I tried not to hold it against him] ownership of the capital as feeling generous. He shall name it Craigtown I believe. Disagreements over flag, needs further development, already regretting generosity.

Set sail late - 7ish, then safety talks/demo. Displeased with life-jacket. Definitely not right. Drowning inevitable. Sailing across 'Drake Passage' - supposedly 'notorious' section of water which needs to be crossed for 2 days to reach Antarctica. I'm on top bunk and am bracing myself for a tumble. 3 course dinner and bed.

Day 2:

Bad sleep. Lots of lamentable, lumbering lolling. Patting myself on back for kick-ass alliteration, although not convinced sentence makes sense. It was basically really rocky. Rolled around the bed but didn't fall. So far am doing better than anticipated.

Up at 8am - take ½ hour to put on clothes due to hot/cold sweats. Can't face breakfast. Had failed to consider seasickness. What a palava. Nice Japanese gentleman paints my portrait - captured my vomitous grimace perfectly.

Search for anti-sickness pills proves to late and I revisit last night's three courses in the sink. Back to bed.

Up at lunchtime feeling better, food was most welcome and delicious. Drugs make feel nice. It's that simple.

Lecture on Antarctica. Notes of interest: it is the highest continent due to lots of ice; coldest continent [down to -60 degrees C] due to lots of ice; most depressed continent [not THAT kind of depressed - most of it has been forced under sea level] due to lots of ice; and most isolated continent... probably because it's covered in ice.

Pills are causing drowsiness so lots of napping. Not unpleasant but rather groggy all day.

Day 3:

Another bad sleep (probably thanks to all that bloody napping). Boat really rocking now. Causes many Japanese tourists to fall over, which never stops being funny.

3 course lunch AND dinner. Sweet!

Another full day at sea. Talked rubbish and slept more. First whale sighting! Well, I saw the blow-hole puffs, so I know they're there. Bit too far to see properly though. Excited about landing tomorrow!

Day 4:

Disgustingly early morning. Yuck. Much better sleep thanks to not being in the ruddy Drake Passage any more. Thermal top, thermal trousers, actual trousers, actual top, fleece, wind/waterproof jacket, waterproof trousers, woolly hat, scarf, thermal gloves, two pairs of socks and wellies. Can barely see, but toasty warm. Sunblock for good measure.

Zodiac ride [little motor-powered dingy thingies] to Hannah Point on Livingstone Island and first steps onto dry land. Not actually on the continent but South Shetland Islands just off it. Amazing views but not much ice. Glacier in distance though, pretty imposing. Tons of wildlife! Seals (Elephant, Weddell, Fur), birds (didn't pay any attention to their names, but very pretty in a birdie type way) and loads of penguins (Gentoo, Chinstrap and one lonely Macaroni)!Chinstraps my favourites but like seeing Elephant Seals fight as their fat layers ripple in a rather delicious way. Examples of Fossils very interesting - same plants here as in Australia once. Shows continents were all joined. Considering stealing penguins. Rotten poo smell though. All shedding summer coats so some look a big mangy. Enjoy long stroll around and take about 200 photo of penguins.

Afternoon jaunt to Whaler's Bay on Deception Island. Actually an active volcano with one side collapsed. Last erupted 1970. Hot springs mean some bits of water by the sea are hot. Some crazy fool swim. I look on in horror.

Stroll around remains of old whaling buildings. Ruined by volcanic eruptions. Low sun makes everything look strangely beautiful and I take too many photos once again. Big copper-coloured cylinders were once used for boiling down whale bones for oil. Weirdly pretty in the sun but scary when you look inside.

Beautiful weather all day - blue skies, sunshine, clear view. Apparently rare in Antarctica. Lucky Laura.

Back on the boat I saw bit more of a whale. At least a bit of tail this time. Celebratory beer.

Day 5:

More whales! Humpbacks, but still quite far away. Mind blowing scenery - surrounded by a bay of ice and snow and am left speechless. Icebergs everywhere. Now THIS is Antarctica.

Off to Useful Island. Not that useful but very pretty views. Should be renamed Penguin Island as there are lots of Penguins. It is strokes of genius like this that explain why I rule Lauraland. Big scrambly and slippery climb (penguin poo proves hazardous) up to a lookout point ad indescribably amazingness in all directions. Photos don't do it justice. Test out self-timer with piteous results. Icy fresh water in a pool at the top of the rocky hill with sea monkeys in. Not that exciting, I had them as pets at school, although no-one believed they existed. They were just REALLY small.

Craig fell in penguin poo and I laughed. Now nicknamed 'Poo Hands Craig'. Needless to say that was from my fair brain. I'm a genius.

Guano induced casualties: One broken arm, one cracked head and one Poo Hands. None involved me. So far so good.

FOUR course lunch. Am starting to resemble an Elephant Seal.

Afternoon trip to Neko Island and first steps onto the continent - favourite bit so far as really stunning, sun shining and LOADS more penguins. These ones are great - really curious and come straight up to you. The babies chase the parents around hilariously, called the 'feeding chase' apparently. Penguins also have 'penguin highways' which are ditches carved from walking over the same path through the snow. Very cute.

Actually quite warm and take nice walk up a snowy mountain for more fantastic views of surrounding sea and glaciers. Catch sight of an avalanche across the water which sounds like thunder and looks spectacular. Really wanted to stay here, maybe I could fashion a hut out of penguin poo and ride out the winter in style.

Champagne toast back at the boat to celebrate 7 continents! Naturally more wine flows afterwards and ends up in bawdy discussion of Brad the expedition leader. He's oddly hunky for a 61 year old. Plus his biog says he is 'intimately familiar with the Northwest Passage'. Phwoar.

Day 6:

Nice late start today so sleep off mild hangover.

Into Zodiacs for tour of Paradise Bay area. Jumping penguins following the boat. See an old research station (still active) which was burnt down in 1984. Story behind this is that the researchers were each to stay for 12 months before their replacements were sent out the following year and the boat would take them home. However, when replacements came the doctor was informed that they couldn't get another doctor so he'd have to stay another year. His reasoning was that they best way to get around this was to burn down the entire station so that they all had to go home. Apparently he's still in a sanitarium now.

Huge glaciers all around the boat, bits of which tumble into the sea with load rumbles. Very exciting and fun to watch.

Head back to boat for, bizarrely, a BBQ. Amazing Argentinian meat. Always a pleasure.

Afternoon wasn't so impressive, although saw some incredible massive icebergs. After that though just went to dingy bit of rock to see Adelie Penguins, but they were really boring and just stood still (stupid penguins). My feet started to go numb from the cold so I was quite relieved when we headed back to the boat.

So exhausted - barely made it through my 4 course dinner before crashing out.

Day 7:

Off to the Argentinian Islands and the Ukrainian Vernadsky Research Station. Was sold to the by the British for a pound. Us Brits are THAT rich. This is the place where they discovered the hole in Ozone layer over Antarctica. They make great vodka here. Costs $2 a shot or free if you give a bra. I don't have enough to dish out willy-nilly so kept mine on. Excellent Ukrainian scientist showed us round - couldn't understand much he said due to thick accent bit was pleasantly amused by it nonetheless.

Climbed big snowy hill, threw snowballs at Japanese tourists. Made snow penis.

Afternoon trip in Zodiacs to explore Lemair Channel - really beautiful. More incredible glaciers and icebergs. Winds started picking up and the big boat couldn't stop to collect us, so we ended up chasing it for about 45 minutes through winds and massive waves. Pretty hair-raising, and bloody freezing but great fun.

Nice hot chocolate and more wine to celebrate.

Day 8:

Last landing, and starting to rain today. Can't recall the name of this island, but long strip of land with lots of seals was very entertaining. Bit terrifying as they chase after you when stressed or cornered. This made me feel stressed and cornered, last thing I need is to be attacked by an angry seal. Keep my distance.

Tons more penguins, I'll miss the little guys. Lots of chunks of ice washed up on shore, really cold today. Long stroll and lots of pics.

And back to the boat for the final time. Long trip back now.

Days 9/10/11

All focused on heading back to Ushuaia as quickly as possible due to approaching storm. Immediately feel nauseous as soon as we reach the Drake Passage so more drugs. Sleep most of the journey. Also reading, drinking hot chocolate and more food... so much food. See dolphins all round the boat, really close and jolly exciting.

Managed to miss the storm and make great time heading back to mainland. Big piss up on the final night leaves everyone shattered and hungover by the time we reach Ushuaia. Incredible trip, completely mind blowing. Seems very odd to be back in a town, a bit shell shocked, but thrilled and sleepy! Nice nap I think....