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Those close to me know I am a value-minded person. I kept thinking about my expensive asparagus purchase yesterday and something kept gnawing at me. I finally pulled current exchange rates. I did not pay $8 for 8 stalks; I paid $11.02 for that asparagus. I wouldn't knowingly do that in a million years but I think I was dazzled by the sight of fresh, first-of-the-season, asparagus and I lost control. Plus that savvy vendor is probably well-seasoned in sizing up easy customers. The asparagus is lovely though -- we are having some with an omelet for breakfast.
Stockholm is the largest city of the Nordic countries. Its metropolitan area has a population of about 1.5 million people. I never realized Stockholm is a city of islands; there are fourteen populated islands, in fact, connected by bridges and tunnels. The most famous island is Gamla Stan, or Old Town where Stockholm first began and where you will find the Royal Place, the Royal Armory, Stockholm Cathedral and The Nobel Museum. The House of Parliament is nearby but on a separate smaller islet, Riddar Holmen. Looking out from the west, this area is the iconic, often photographed magnificent view of the bay, Riddarfjarden, showing Stockholm City Hall in the background.
There are plenty of restaurants, shops and parks on Gamla Stan as well. I have to say this, people here love dinning out, and on a nice day, they seek restaurants without door seating. They use such lovely table manners here too, properly using both a knife and fork. With the knife in the right hand and fork in the left, they gently cut and fill the fork with just enough of meat, sauce and a bit of vegetable to create a delicious composed bite. I am intrigued. The utensils may be laid down for a rest, but they never exchange hands. I watch others eating in this very civilized manner and try to emulate. Before long, though, I find myself sawing away on my meatball. Then I put down my knife, exchange hands for the fork, then take a bite. I might even follow-up adding another bite of something else on my plate just to mix the flavors. How crude.
Each island seems to have a special purpose and personality. For example, Djurgarden, one of the larger islands, is almost entirely devoted to the city's Botanical Gardens. The island Ostermalm is a prime area for commerce and shopping. It also contains some of the most expensive real estate in town. Here luxurious apartment buildings line the north side of the boulevard, Strandvagen, and sit on the water's edge. This area was built to impress visitors attending Stockholm World's Fair 1897. Today it is still known as one of the most prestigious addresses in town. The apartments overlook the bay and some have as many as 20 rooms.
It seems the major European cities we have visited all seem to have common threads. Most are built on important waterways - no wonder since water was fundamental to trade, and defense way back in the 1200's when most of these cities were first founded. The water sets the stage for gloriously beautiful city settings which must be a vast change from the dirty wharf areas they once were a fifty or a hundred years ago. Yes, the cities do begin to look a little similar. That is makes sense too. Royal families of one country married into royal families of other European countries - to keep the peace and to protect and expand holdings of wealth. They brought ideas from home with them, and they borrowed each other's architects and city planners. Most large European cities have magnificent buildings, meant to exhibit their power and wealth, made of stone and marble, decorated with carvings, statues and gold - all delivered at the hand, no doubt, of the back and brawn of the poor and prisoners and financed through conquered wealth and taxes on the peasant class. That's history. The amazing point is that today's cities treasure their government and historic buildings, their monuments, museums, and theatres. It is their priority to take exceptional care to preserve and maintain these gems for the enjoyment and appreciation of generations to come. They lend some nice bragging rights as well.
After another rough night last night I realized my illness is not improving. I usually avoid most colds and flu and when I do get hit by something, I usually bounce back pretty fast. I think I caught a super bug this time. I sense infection, and my chest is tight. The weather is chilly, windy and damp. That does not help. Still we have only limited time here in Stockholm and we are determined to see as much as we can of this beautiful, interesting place. Today is Monday so the Royal Castle and the Nobel Museum are both closed. The Queen's Palace (Drottningholm) and Abba Museum are open so we set out. We planned to travel to Drottningholm on Lovon Island by ferry, but learned that train plus a short bus ride is much faster and far less expensive. It was a snap. What a beautiful place! There are no stone turrets or draw bridges as one might think with a castle or palace. Instead it is a quite large, stately mansion on lovely grounds looking out to Lake Malaren.
The first palace of Drottningholm was built during late 16th century, by King Johan III to his queen Katarina. The palace burned down completely in 1661. A new palace was built and served as a country residence for the queen and for many queens to come. Today Drottningholm is the residence of the current Swedish royal family and was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1991.
We toured the palace and oohed and ahhed at the grandeur and expanse. Because the weather was not encouraging at all and because I began to feel even worse, we did not get to tour other sites on the grounds such as the Royal Chapel or the Chinese Pavilion and gardens which are some of the most important assets of the estate. Instead, we headed back to the city. At the train station we decided to visit a pharmacy to see if there might be a physician nearby - thinking it might be easier to see a doctor in a smaller community than attempt to find one in the city and then deal with all the sick people we might find seeking treatment on a Monday. After all, the Swedish medical system is nationalized. Yes, indeed, the pharmacist sent us to medical office just steps from his store. And although they were completely booked and had no available time slots, I think they took pity on me and agreed to treat me. Yes, the doctor said, you have fever and yes, you have infection in your body. You need antibiotics. Hallelujah! Thank you, God! And thank you, good people of Sweden for taking the time to help me. I simply was overwhelmed with thanks for the concern, attention and care they gave to me. I was a complication to their system, a complication to their schedule but still they went out of their way to help. As a note, here they don't mess around wondering if you might have a virus. They simply p****your finger and run a blood test. In minutes, they can measure the amount of infection present in your body and determine if antibiotics are appropriate treatment. I am confident I am going to be a new woman tomorrow!
By this time of day we were ravenous. We had mussels and pomme frites. I may be ill, but I have lusted over mussels we've seen served here ever since we arrived. Unfortunately, my appetite is still pretty good. The restaurant was cozy and warm. The mussels, bread, salad and fries were delectable. We sat next to the window and watched interesting and pretty people pass by, and the music was just perfect. Although my spirits improved, my nasty cough persisted. At least I was able to start my meds.
Get this, the resaturant had a bowling alley in the back of the dining room! Yes, right here in downtown Stockholm you can enjoy a fine dining experience and then bowl a game or two in the back. We did not hear a single bowling ball hit the floor or a single pin crash in a strike. But we did hear occasional shouts as teams cheered on great scores.
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Melissa Murphy I honestly don't know how you do it. Still going strong being as sick as you are. I really hope you might take a day to try to recuperate. Please don't take chances. Well, I hope you feel better quickly and Stan doesn't catch it. I know the timing bites bit your overall health is way more important than another incredibly beautiful city! Lol!! Just take care! I love you guys dearly!!