From Medellin we took a 6.5 hour drive through mountains (of course) to Armenia - a city within the Zona Cafetera. This time they played GI Joe on the TV, which didn't seem to require subtitles. At Armenia we got a quick snack of bunuelos - a deep-fried, perfectly spherical ball of dough - and boarded a local bus to Salento. On arrival in the colonial square we met Juliette (France) and the three of us walked to the Plantation House hostel, which is a really cool place to stay with lots of big dogs to fuss.

In the evening we walked into town for a set meal that was incredibly good and incredibly cheap (2 pounds). We had trout, which seems to be very common here. Then we went for a beer in the main square that has very eclectic decor and a urinal that is separated from the bar area by a mere beaded curtain. The best thing about Salento is the wealth of locals in ponchos and cowboy hats and facial hair... it seems too good to be real!

Day 61 - Beautiful day and perfect for a hike. Juliette, Alex and I headed into town and stopped on the way at an American restaurant to pick up some packed lunches. While we were there, a local guy was telling us that the Valle de Cocora (where we were heading) was totally rubbish. Turns out he was wrong. We then caught a jeep up to the valley from the main square, although quite why they needed to be jeeps we are still not sure since the entire road is paved with the exception of 3 x 3 metre sections of hardcore.

We ended up doing the hiking loop backwards to what most do, which turned out to be a good move since we avoided almost all other tourists. The problem with that is that it wasn't entirely clear where we turn off the main track to head up the mountain. On our way we met Johnny (States), Raoul (England/Spain) and his Colombian girlfriend and the six of us did the hike together, which was fun. Alex and I both found the uphill difficult with the altitude... and it is only going to get higher as we head further south! The views of the valley were beautiful though, especially with the cloud forest and really tall wax palm trees that stick out the top. We had our lunch at the farmstead at the top... probably the best peanut butter and jam sandwich I've ever had, since both the peanut butter and jam were homemade.

After lunch we headed down the valley and to a huming bird sanctuary, where we sat and watched around 6 different types of humming birds. Here I missed my camera the most. We had a coffee at the sanctuary and then headed down the valley, crossing the river using some very dubious bridges made with wooden slats and wire. After starting our hike at 10am we returned at 4:30pm and took a jeep back to town.

At the hostel we had a snack and beer and then headed off to the restaurant we went to yesterday (it's so good and cheap), but it was closed! Instead, Juliette, Alex and I had some trout at a stall in the plaza, served by the sweetest, tiny old lady. The food all comes with an enormous patacone (plantain chip). The plaza was buzzing with people dancing outside bars that were blaring out Colombian music... for a small town this is a happening Saturday night! We then went to a bar a little further out of town and on the way saw a huge group of locals riding around on horses, a bit like a motorbike mob. At the bar we walked through two extremely dark rooms of couples dancing salsa and emerged at the back into something like a bowling alley to play the national Colombian game of Tejo. Basically all you do is drink beer and through metal weights at a clay pit... trying to hit the explosives in the middle, but since I am atrociously bad at throwing this game is limited for me.

We returned to the plaza and had a drink outside one of the bars. Here my soft spot for elderly men let me down and one insisted I danced with him. It was actually quite fun, although while we were dancing the police raided the bar (looking for under-age drinkers) and killed the party. Not for long though! Alex and Juliette were both tired and so went home, leaving me wide awake and on my own, so I hung around with some Israelis in the plaza.

Day 62 - Last to bed and first up today (how does she sleep so much)! Since this is the Zona Cafetera we wanted to go in search of a coffee plantation today. Our hostel sent us in the direction of a nearby plantation, but we were amazed about how the landscape didn't live up to what we think a 'plantation' should! I have been to a couple of coffee plantations before and Alex seems happy enough to look it up online, so a little bemused about the lack of coffee bushes Alex and I went into town. We went to a shop and Alex bought me a handbag for my birthday, which should benefit us both since we have been carrying money in our bras everytime we've been out. Then we sat in the plaza and bought a corn cob... followed by an arepa with cheese on it. While we were sat on the curb in the plaza and old lady who we had seen a couple of times previously poking her head out of a doorway, came out of church and gave us both a kiss! After such a quantity of beige food we bought some mixed fruit juice to help with the digestion, which actually tasted of candyfloss there was so much sugar in it!

The plaza is rammed with people enjoying their Sunday, and also a disproportionate amount of dogs, including puppies for sale. We struggled hard not to buy one, but it´s just not practical. While Alex was finishing up online I sat on the curb outside the internet cafe and watched all the people pass by. At one point an old man came past pushing a soapbox jeep up the hill that he used to give rides for children in the square... he was so sweet it almost broke my heart! Then Alex and I walked up to the mirador for views of the town. At the top there was a makeshift rifle target set up for prizes that I very nearly wandered through.

In the evening we had a beer in a billiards bar and enjoyed the old men in ponchos, moustaches and cowboy hats playing a game like pool, but with no pockets on the table and only three balls. It turns out most places to eat are closed on Sunday evenings in Salento, so ended up in a travellers restaurant near our hostel for a chicken tikka masala. It was exquisite.