Had we crossed the border? Our stamp in our passport said so, but with no change in temperature, scenery or language it was hard to believe we were in a new country and it wasn't until later that afternoon that we even realsied there was a time difference. El Calafates Swiss chalet style didnt feel as authentic as Pucon; to be expected we guess as its just a tourist base for visiting the glaciers. However we couldnt fault our newly built hostel, with underfloor heating and hair dryers. Jona sampled his first Argentinian steak that evening, it was so so and we decided to stick to the lamb whilst still in Patagonia.

Off to Moreno glacier the following day we had 'Chumpy', the obligatory window licker on our tour, who insisted on holding every one up at every opportunity taking pictures of sheep (we are fed up with organised tours!). Shouldn't complain about it too much as our guide did an excellent job of keeping us away from all the other tourists throughout the da. First we climbed to the top of the Penninsular for close up views of the glacier and land bridge, amazed at the size and scale and a bit gobsmacked at the amount and frequency of huge icebergs breaking away into the lake. We then lunched on the viewing platforms with fantastic views of the glacier and up into the ice fields, which is said to be the size of Bs As city - thats BIG!!

Finally, just our group on the boat, we headed for the glacier face, pausing briefly while one of the crew fished a lump of 200 year old ice from the water for Jona to enjoy with his 10 year old whiskey. Chatting to Rich, a fellow Hoveite also on our tour, on the way back to dock, we were all silenced by the thunderous crack of an enormous iceberg breaking off the glacier. We never did get the action shot of a piece breaking off, always too slow, but a brilliantly memorable day.

Drinks with Rich were in order that evening, surprised when the bar closed at 1am, we were forced to buy a couple of nightcaps from a local shop.

Ahead of our long journey to Puerto Madryn we decided a decent feed was needed so we lunched on some very fine wild boar, venison, smoked and cured salmon and other such Patagonian delicacies - delicious!