So this morning's alarm hurt... had we even been asleep yet?! We arrived at basecamp bleary-eyed at 7.50am for the 8.15am shuttle bus to the start of the Tongariro Crossing - one of the world's greatest one day treks.

When we visited the information centre in Taupo yesterday we discovered that due to the volcanic eruptions from the Te Maari craters of Mt Tongariro last August and November, the last half of the track has been closed and will be for the forseeable future due to acidic gas emissions and the danger of more eruptions or flying rocks. Obviously we weren't going to question this decision, so instead of being 20km one way, our trek would be out and back the same way. Still, the crossing is open up to the highest pont of the main track at Red Crater (1886m) from which point you can see the best views and the beautiful thermal 'Emerald Lakes' below and there is also the option of adding an extra diversion to the summit of Tongariro.

The forecast for today was cloudy and although strong winds were expected, there wasn't any sign of them at the start of the track. There was a lot of low lying mist for the first couple of hours of the climb, so although it was atmospheric, we didn't exactly get wonderful views! The track is very clearly marked with some board walks and several steps so thankfully we didn't need to navigate through the mist. Having passed Soda Springs and Mt Ngauruhoe (2291m, one of NZ's most active volcanoes), we climbed up the Devil's Staircase to South Crater where visibility decreased dramatically. We could only see a couple of metres in front but it didn't really matter because we seemed to be in a large, flat open space. Only when the mist cleared a little did we see how vast, flat and barren the land was up there, it looked a bit like a desert, or iin Phil's words, it looked 'post-apocalyptic'!

As we started the ascent to the rim of Red Crater, the same wind which had cleared the mist to unveil a post-apocalyptic south crater began to gather momentum and show it's true force. Just as we'd reached the most exposed part of the crossing, with loose scoria underfoot taking us two steps backward for every one step forward, the wind became overpowering. Several times we were forced to cling to rocks for shelter or simply get right down on our hands and knees because we just couldn't stay upright. So the predicted 65km winds did indeed rear their ugly heads after all.

We were undecided as to whether to carry on, but having come so far and still feeling fresh, we pressed ahead to the crater, struggling to stay on our feet. The views were incredible, although we barely had the chance to look at them as dust was blown into our eyes and stones were hitting the back of our legs hard as we feared being swept off our feet.

In the end, we decided it was simply too dangerous to complete the final couple of hundred metres up to the highest point. It was so frustrating as we knew the best views were just within our reach, but given the force of the wind, the ridge ahead looked perilous and my legs had turned to jelly with fear. The Emerald Lakes would have to wait, much to our disappointment.

However, our adventure was far from over. Having almost made it to the top, we then had to get back down and the wind had picked up even more speed. I panicked as we started the slippery descent and reached the point where I was simply too frightened to move. I sat down by a rock, shut my eyes, and clung on for dear life.

Phil was a hero. As I began to shiver, he calmed me down, kept me warm and force fed me sweets (I was later told this was to prevent me from going into hypoglycaemic shock, but either way, they sure tasted good!) We waited for what felt like forever for the wind to die down a little so that we could at least get back on our feet, but it was relentless. Anyone else we could see was doing the same, just trying to shelter or crouching down on the slopes. Thankfully, Phil finally managed to gently coax me back down the ridge, holding on to me tightly all the way. It seemed like such a long way down and I lamented that lovely, wide, flat, safe, south crater floor.

I thought on reflection that maybe I'd been a bit of a wimp, but seeing other people turn around and give up made me realise just how badly the weather had turned. Phil was absolutely incredible and by the time we got back to the start of the track, in just over four hours in total, I was smiling and laughing again. Phew! There was still no sign of the wind back down in the valley mind!

We spoke to someone in a nearby town on the way back from the crossing who told us that only the day before, those who had gone out to try the crossing hadn't even got as far as South Crater as they were thrown back by the wind at the Devil's Staircase. So I guess we were very lucky to get as far as we did. It was still a great adventure and I'll be racing Tim back to complete the entire crossing if it ever reopens! ;)

We've now having a relaxing evening at our very remote and basic campsite, with stunning views of the volcanoes. I think I need a glass of wine and poor Phil sure deserves a few!!