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4.30am. That's the time my alarm went off. Can you Adam and Eve that. We got up, groggy, put clothes on and then threw some things into my small back pack. I then had the realization that I might have to cover my knees and shoulders: quick google search - dress modestly. I changed into my long pants and threw my shorts in the back pack along with a scarf for my shoulders.
We made our way downstairs and were greeted by our took took driver; he was well dressed in his Sunday best, looking very smart. It was a day of official took took business for him, clearly. We hopped in and asked him to stop at an ATM. He took us to a Canadian ATM, but it would not let Edd draw dollars, so he asked our took took driver to take him to a different one. The second stop was fruitful and we headed for Angkor Wat.
We joined a large number of other took tooks on the main road to Angkor Wat; they were all carrying westerners. I felt like a migrating goose. He dropped us off at the ticket office and Edd was pointed at, to start a new queue, eureka! He got his ticket first and then I got mine, a camera took a picture of us and our faces were on the tickets; this way we couldn't 'transfer' the ticket to a third party after we were done. It was very clever.
We got back on our took took and he took us to the first parking area; he pointed to Angkor Wat and told us to walk through there to watch the sun rise, which we did. Edd took a few pictures of the pink sky against a blackened temple with the reflection in the lake in front of it. The stuff postcards of made of. We then walked up to a line of officials who checked our tickets and then allowed us through. It was quite a walk to get to the initial temple and we were trying to beat the rising sun, so did it in haste. We walked through and discovered to small lakes on either side of the walkway, we veered off to the left and joined a large crowd of people all waiting for the inevitable.
After half an hour of waiting, the sun rose high enough for all to see. It was a beautiful sight with the temple in front of us and the sunrise to the left, the sky was a mixture of pinks and oranges and it disappeared slightly behind a cloud for a few moments.
We then walked around the temple at 6.30 in the morning and took pictures of the ruins. It was hard to imagine being a stonemason putting that big jigsaw puzzle together accurately: nothing was made from 1 piece of stone, 1 low relief image of a Buddha took up at least 6 - 8 large blocks that fitted together perfectly. Each image was a master piece in its own right, and there were a large number of master pieces in this temple!
We could not walk up to the top of Angkor Wat as the stairs were closed until 8am. We didn't want to hang around until then, so made our way back to the parking lot to meet our took took driver.
We were hungry, so he took us to Angkor Thom and pulled up outside one of the restaurant areas there. I ordered a pancake with banana and chocolate syrup (so healthy) and Edd ordered a cheese and chicken baguette; I also ordered a coffee.
My coffee came and I poured the shot of milk into it. There was a problem: my coffee had chunks of cream floating around the top of it which only meant one thing - the milk was off. I took a sip and then gagged, I was indeed correct. We sent it back (we weren't doing very well in Siem Reap with food and drinks!) and she brought me another one, but this time the milk was in a can. A bit strange, but tasted all right so poured it in.
Our food arrived and my pancake was thicker than westerners make it, but not as bad as the one I'd had in Phnom Pen that was like a cake, just missing the icing and candles. The Cambodian people took the cake part of pancake too seriously. It wasn't horrendous though, so I ate most of it.
We then went back to our took took and our driver took us to Angkor Thom. We minced around these ruins for a while, but both seemed more fascinated by the stone grave yard that surrounded the ruins: they were numbered, an attempt at restoration had started, but then ceased for some reason as the numbers were already coming off, having been painted on. Edd was losing interest fast with all the 'cultural crap' he was having to endure. 'Once you've seen one old rock, you've seem them all' quote, unquote. I did not force him to walk to the top of Angkor Thom, I myself was not overwhelmed at the thought. We did however climb off the walk way and around the grounds, in the stone graveyard. We discovered that the walkway we were just on, had been restored, as the outside was ancient, but new concrete slabs had be laid at some point on top of them.
We continued on a side path and through a clearing in the jungle. There was another temple to explore and we did it half heartedly, I'm afraid to admit it, but I was getting bored myself. This 3rd temple was a bit amusing and infuriating though, they'd restored it by erecting a sand and cement rendered wall next to it, with small windows in some places so you could see what the original wall looked like. It was a complete joke. Why on earth would you attempt to preserve a part of ancient history, by erecting a wall that completely covered it. The stupidity required to make such a decision was astonishing.
We met our took took driver at the end of the path and climbed in. We had 1 more temple to see, the one I was quite excited about, the one the movie Tomb Raider was filmed at, Ta Prohm.
All the temples were in completely separate parts of the park and had their own entrances that you had to drive through.We arrived at Ta Prohm and walked around for 45 minutes, taking pictures and marvelling a the enormous trees that were growing on the roof of different parts of the temple. The roots had made their way down the walls over the years and twisted through the deteriorating ruins. Apparently this temple had been restored, but a large majority of number stones still lined the walls and some of the passages were stacked with stones that hadn't been rehomed. Half job.
We made our way back to our took took and asked our driver to take us to the bank. We were done, it had been fabulous, but we were done. It was 9.30am and we'd been there since 5am. How people bought 5 day passes and walked around the ruins for 5 days was something neither of us could understand.
We dropped Edd off at the bank and the took took driver drove me back to our guesthouse to fetch our passports. He then took me back to the bank where Edd thank and paid him for his services. He was a friendly chap with a good sense of humour, we liked him.
We sat in a queue for ages before we were helped, luckily you took a number and waited to be called, so at least you get to sit. A Cambodian woman was sitting with her daughter next to us, eating a local fruit. We sat and watched her pick it apart and the lady asked us if we'd like to try one. She handed me a strange looking green thing that looked a bit like an umbrella, the problem was, I didn't know what to do with it! The lady then took it from me and showed me that the seeds that were only just protruding from the top had to be popped like pimples, you then took the seed covering off and ate the inside bit. Edd and I copied her and ate the inside part of the seed: it tasted like a soft nut. We then entertained ourselves by eating the rest of the fruit pimples while we waited. We were eventually assisted by a Cambodian lady that did not speak very good English - we just needed her to verify who we were using our passports, that was it. She consulted all of her colleagues and then finally her immediate superior, who was at the time busy assisting another customer with an issue that took her 20 minuets to solve.
The problem was that she could not verify who we were unless the lady in England emailed her and asked. She spoke better English, so after debating a number of solutions, we agreed for her to take a copy of our passports and wait for the woman in England to email her with the request, that way we did not have to come back in the afternoon when England's banks were open (6 hours behind Asia). She agreed and we got her contact information to forward to the England branch.
We then ordered a pepperoni pizza in Pub Street (second time lucky) and walked home. The tourist information office next to our guesthouse was closed for lunch, so we decided we'd go back later. We stopped off and checked out a market behind our guest house that was hidden behind buildings. Edd finally bartered with a lady that agreed to $6 for 2 sarongs. His argument was that they'd be 100 Baht each in Thailand, and we'd rather wait until then to get them than spend extra here. No, he did not care if it was Cambodian cotton. No, he was not prepared to pay more. In the end she gave in and we chose 2 sarongs that looked to me a bit like large tea towels. We then went to our guest house and climbed into bed, going straight to sleep: we were onto our second day with minimal sleep and had serious amounts of catching up to do.
1.5 hours later, we woke up feeling refreshed. I carried on reading my book and Edd went to the tourist information office to get us bus tickets to the Cambodia/Thai border. He came back successful and climbed back into bed.
At 7pm I was finished the second book and suddenly hungry. Edd had been researching the islands of southern Thailand and put his research on hold. It had started to rain, well thunderstorm really, and we decided to eat somewhere close by and made our way back to the hidden market.
We sat down at a little restaurant and ordered a beer and a glass of wine. Edd then ordered Lak lak with beef and I ordered fried noodles with seafood. We were sitting under a covered area, but still felt the rain when the wind blew a certain way. We Facetimed with Edd's mum while we had dinner and caught up on what everyone was up to.
We finished our dinner and then made our way back to the guesthouse where Edd climbed into bed and went straight to sleep. I sat up and blogged as I did not want to get behind again, so went to bed at 10pm. The internet was playing up, so the video's I wanted to upload were going to have to wait until we were back in Thailand, with real internet.
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