After having a day off with the ribs yesterday I surfed in my lesson this morning - a combination of getting used to the new board and not great waves lead to a bit of a frustrating surf. Was to be in the water though as it was so warm. After lunch I just sunbathed to try and get a bit of a tan going. Some of the guys went off to play 'Kangaroo Golf' - a golf driving range which kangaroos seem to like, resulting in moving targets. I couldn't really be bothered t...

So I woke up this morning to Arrawarra at 2-3ft and glassy...but I have been struck down with the popular problem of bad ribs. About half the people here have suffered from a similar problem with different levels of severeness. Mine seems to be very minor at the moment so have had a day out the water in the hope it will feel better tomorrow. One of the others was out for 2 weeks! Im now also getting pain in my elbows which, Rhys says, is where your triceps attac...

Woke up this morning to 4ft clean waves, wind has gone! Some of the sets coming through got a bit scary when you get stuck in side and worked about 10-15 waves in a row. Hopefully going to go to the board shop today and get myself a second hand short board. Fed up of using heavy cumbersome NSPs. I made it to the board shop after lunch - there must have been about 10/12 used short boards in there but all with a very similar shape. I got an absolute steal and g...

Woke up as planned early this morning to free surf with some of the other academy guys. It was about 2-3ft and really stormy cross shore so didn't stay out long. Probably surfed about 2 hours 8:30-10:30 then just sunbathed before lunch. Surfed on our lesson this afternoon at 1:30 which was good for all of about half an hour before the wind went cross shore and blew so hard it got difficult to paddle for waves. Just chilling in the hammocks again now waiting fo...

6am wake up again this morning to surf at 7, it was barely worth getting out of bed. So bloody windy at cross/onshore it's just ruining the waves. If the wind had died it could have been a nice 3-4ft but it's just horribly stormy. At the end of the session Dave saw some sort of wildlife about 8ft long breach the water just out the back of the lineup so looks like we were surfing with some sort of shark or maybe a Tuna or something. Fortunately we were just gettin...