Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
Well I had a pretty good sleep, and didn't get a visit from a ranger so that's got to count as a success!
I woke up just before 6am, and it was already fully light, so I went off 2 minutes down the road to check the surf at Big Hill. Unfortunately the swell was too southerly to really get in there, so I just watched it over breakfast and headed back up to Delicates, where I had stayed the night before.
Having walked through the camp there were no signs of Mojo being there..looks like they must have bailed for the weekend and forgot to tell the campsite! The surf at that end of Big Hill beach was all blown out and stormy looking too, so I went off back up the road towards Crescent Head.
Half way back I got to RaceCourse, a big beach with a point beak at the southern end. There were about 4/5 people out on the point and it looked super fun, peeling perfectly for 100m or so and about 2ft. I quickly pulled my Wettie on and paddled out down the point.
I had a really, really fun surf. Although not that many waves came through, the bigger ones I managed to pick off were super fun. I can't remember the last time (if ever) I could do 3/4 turns and cutbacks on a single wave. Unfortunately after about an hour and a half the tide came up too high, and you'd hardly have even known there was a wave there, so I got out and got changed.
It's fair to say I have become soft too - despite the water being warm the wind was cold and getting changed in the car park was pretty nippy. I don't know how I am going to cope going back home to English winter!
While I was in the water I spent ages chatting to a bloke (as there was plenty of time between waves) who surfed it quite a lot. He was telling me how good it can get there and about surfing around the world in general. When I was about to leave the carpark he came over and gave me a photo of a smaller, but sunnier day, at the break we had just surfed but back in 2008. Its a really nice photo, and will always remind me of the surf I've just had.
From there I drove back up into Crescent Head town, and went to check the main famous point break (now there was about of swell around). It was about 1/2ft and completely swamped with longboarders, but was pretty cool to watch for a while. I could see from there that there were quite a few short boarders out at the main beach, which was picking up a lot more swell. As I only had a short surf earlier, I decided to head back out and give it another go.
It was about 3/4ft and worth every moment of putting on a wet wetsuit and paddling out. Although the rides weren't nearly as long as the point, practising the same sort of turns on bigger waves seemed to make something click in my head.
After about an hour and a half the cross shore was absolutely howling and the surf had turned to crap, so I went and got changed again feeling pretty content!
With not much else to see in Crescent I headed off south again, and it was about an hour and a bit to Port Macquarie. Before getting to the beach I stumbled across Maccas, so the usual routine; 30cent Icecream cone and an hour on the internet.
I then went up to 'Town Beach' and did a bit of a walk around a couple of headlands to the south. I didn't see anything particularly interesting, but the views were nice. When I got back to Town Beach I went and watched the bodyboarders off the break wall, where a stormy wedge type wave was breaking. They were absolutely hilarious; the stereotypical long haired, 'dontgiveas***', flinging them selves in the air and running each other over kind of kids. Really good fun to watch.
There was a great skatepark just behind the beach too, so I sat for ages watching them, mainly in the 'bowl', just like on the Lords of Dog Town film Ben gave me. Again, really good fun to watch and seriously good skaters.
Having been watching the skaters, I we off for a roll down a good promenade pathway on my longboard. It's amazing how much ground you can cover and how quickly! I followed it all the way along the break wall and up the river a little way, before it finished at a dock.
From the breakwall where I had been watching the body boarders, you could see over the river mouth and the opposite breakwall to see waves on the huge beach the other side. I could see a couple of guys out, and my little wave finder book said it was a good spot, so I went off to check it out and camp for the night.
It turned out you had to get a car ferry across the 300m wide river and it was pretty remote on the other side, with just a couple of houses near the ferry spot. I found a good carpark right at the top of the beach I wanted to surf in the morning, so set up the car.
Having walked along the beach and had some dinner it was dark and I was pretty tired anyway, so I just went to bed.
(Photo - Just before I surfed RaceCourse this morning).
- comments