Nokhur village is the home of the culturally distinctive, and commercially successful Nokhur tribe. And it was also the site of a very pleasant homestay that we had with a local family. As we have learned over the last 5 weeks, not speaking the local language is no barrier to travelling. Smiles, handshakes, ecstatic groaning noises when eating, and taking and sharing photos seems to break down most awkward silences.

Whilst Ashgabat has been turned into a gleaming white marble city, places like Nokhur retain a charm from a previous age, and are testament to the quality of Turkmen hospitality.