When you mention Nepal you would normally use trekking in the same sentence. An Initial plan for a shortish trek was in place but this of course assumed we wouldn't both be struck down with Nepalese Belly Ache or that I would stub my toe during a rather heroic climb up a local mountain. Still, with Borneo and Peru to come later in the trip we accepted there would be other opportunities.

Approximately 200km East of Kathmamdu, Pokhara is situated on the shores of the tranquil lake Phewa, surrounded by more towering white peaked Himalayan mountains. The most stunning of which, the pyramid peaked 7000m of Mt Machhapuchhare looming menacingly over lakeside. There are no films or books relating to triumphant or tragic ascents of this monster as being considered so sacred it is the only mountain in Nepal that it is forbidden to climb.

It would be easy to stay in the lakeside back-packer area of Pokhara with it's lakeside bars, restaurants, outdoors or ethnic shops without realising there was an actual town of Pokhara or even that you are in Nepal. Being brutally honest, after the madness, noise and pollution of Kathmandu the laid back lakeside area, fresh air and blue skies had an instant appeal I would liken to Byron Bay or Cairns in Australia....just about perfect for a few days!

After spending a week in a car travelling across Tibet the thought of a 7hr bus ride from Kathmandu wasn't overly appealing, neither was the small plane flight option but the fact it would be over in just 25 mins was enough to seal the deal. Alex, choosing the bus, was up and gone by the time we had stirred but a couple of hours later our 30 seater plane had treated us to magnificent views over the Annapurna range and we were settled into our new £9 a night guest house in Pokhara. We even had time to wander along the lake and stop for a spot of lunch before Alex trudged in. Rather unsurprisingly she didn't have a huge amount to report of the journey itself having slept the majority of the way!

Unfortunately, no sooner had we arrived, than Sally who having treated her stomach to one plain boiled rice too many was confined to the room! There is a time for sympathy but this was Saturday night and the prospect of Premiership football was enough to drag me out for the night...When darkness descends, this sleepy hippy town quickly livens up with the prospect of happy hour, free wifi or a tone deaf Nepalese band banging out Bryan Adams 'Everything I Do' the carrot to entice you in to the plentiful supply of bars.

A haven for the adventurous, Pokhara offers every opportunity to indulge in climbing, kayaking, white water rafting or for the real adrenaline seekers, a chance to throw themselves off the lakeside mountain of Sarangkot. The area not short of nutters, cluttering up the sky before dropping to the lakeside landing area!

The 1600m viewpoint of Sarangkot is easily accessible by taxi but the 3 hr trek from lakeside seemed a better plan. It appeared a straightforward enough to walk along the lake with a right turn up the mountain but the Lonely Planet guide suggested going inland and up from there...I'm not sure why we took option 2! Sally still needing to stay near the comfort of a bathroom chose not to join us as we set off on this gentle ascent. It was soon evident that the word footpath or sign meant very little here and we would have to rely on asking the locals. An hour or so later after somehow trekking through a couple of villages and a lot of back gardens we were well off the beaten track, not a tourist to be seen. The occasional friendly local pointing us in the right direction or children chasing after us asking for chocolate. Unfortunately we hadn't planned for this and left a trail of disappointed faces on the slopes of the mountain! It was great to get away from the tourist trail and see more of the real Nepal. A simple existent based on farming the steep sloping land or tending to water buffalo restrained in the back garden. With no Xbox or even TV in sight, children joyfully chasing each other around the fields without fear of local hoodies or strangers.

At one point we found a single carriage dirt track only to encounter a herd (well 5 or 6) water buffalo steaming down the hill towards us. Just as I was about to shout 'stampede' and dive for cover it was evident they were more afraid of us and moved quickly to the other side. It was just after this animal encounter that I foolishly stubbed my big toe on a boulder, the sharp pain informing me I may not simply be able to walk this one off. We still had an hour of climbing to do so showing no signs of weakness I hobbled on. Finally we stumbled upon the main road where we were informed about a great shortcut. It may have been a slightly quicker route but was cleverly routed through the hilltop shopping mall- more disappointed faces as we bounded past each roadside seller sensing the top was near.

The viewpoint at the top offers panoramic views over Pokhara and in the opposite direction the Annapurna range- unfortunately cloud had moved in hiding the peaks. We had planned to take a taxi back down but after being informed it would cost 1000 rupees (£10), Alex somewhat unaware of my pain started the descent. Our plan to hitch a lift or pick up a cab lower down. After another 30 minute hobble we were once again at the main road and just about to climb onto the roof of a local bus when a cab emerged out of no where. 50 pence got us to the bottom of the hill and another 50p was enough to get us back to the hostel compliments of a friendly enough man masquerading as a cabbie! By this time my toe had swollen up quite nicely! Any thoughts of proper trekking in the next few days disappearing in an instant.

The lakeside itself although picturesque is somewhat untidy with weeds extracted from the lake left to rot on the banks mixed with litter. There are some slightly tidier areas but the calm and scenic views are quickly disrupted by the inevitable approach from an exciled Tibetan woman selling handicrafts or the local child contortion act busking to the beat of a drum. If you can handle the hassle it is interesting to sit and watch the locals washing clothes, pots or themselves in the uninviting slightly polluted waters.

After parting company with Alex, we were now both citing questionable hygiene in restaurants or brushing teeth with tap water for the state of our stomachs. The Lonely Planet guide had no suggestion of things to do with 2 dodgy stomachs and a limp so sleeping, BBC World News and watching every exploit of our roommate Gordon the Gecko just about passed the day until this morning when we were finally able to drag ourselves away from the room and make it out on a rowing boat on the lake.

Tomorrow we head back to chaos and motorcycle horns of Kathmandu courtesy of the cheap Agni air. I was a little alarmed to overhear they are the cheapest because they buy planes off the other airlines when they need replacing! Anyhow assuming we make it, a final day in Kathmamdu before the next country on our list...India. I can't imagine Delhi will be overly quiet either as we have cleverly timed our visit to coincide with both the Hindu festival of Diwali and Barack Obamas visit.....great!