We have already been lucky enough to see some of the great wonders of the world, stunning architecture and fascinating cultures but Malaysian Borneo was always going to be about wildlife and in particular, the legendary Orang-utan. Orang-utan literally translates as 'man of the forest' and possessing 96.4% of the same genes is the 3rd closest relative to human beings. Native only to the forests of Borneo and Sumatra, although far from guaranteed, our goal was simple- we just wanted to see one in the wild!

We hired a car in the northern city of Kota Kinabalu in order to travel across Borneo hoping to see these marvelous mammals. The drive took us up and through the Mt Kinabalu national park. At just over 4000 metres it's impressive rocky summit is the highest point in South East Asia. Unfortunately we awoke to low mist and cloud and after a cool night donning trousers and a jacket for the first time in 3 months, we decided to cut short our visit to the national park and plough on to the north coast town of Sandakan. 250km of slightly bumpy but flatter roads proved a slightly easier experience in our 850cc Viva car than the ascent to Kinabalu the day before. With 3rd gear seemingly useless, we had to stick to the crawler lane and enjoyed the embarrassment of being overtaken by a large truck. Later whilst driving through the national park we even had to reverse and start again with a run up to ensure we could drive up the slope to the car park. Fortunately this moment and the following 5000 revs in 1st gear to struggle up the slope was audience free!

After dropping down the east side of the Kinabalu national park it was evident that 2 changes had occurred around us. Firstly the air temperature had returned to it's usual stifling intensity and also the jungle landscape had been replaced by row upon row of palm trees. We later found out these weren't pineapple trees as we had assumed but instead palm oil trees that supplied 40% of the worlds supply (we still aren't totally sure what the purpose of Palm Oil is?). Separated by occasional totally barren forested sections of land, the plantations continued for over 100km. The area of Sepilok and the land of the orang-utan was nearing but still there was no sign of the jungle. It was apparent that this is not a habitat suitable for sustaining large tree dwelling mammals and it is little wonder orang-utans are endangered. It is ironic that one of their closest relations is in fact their biggest threat!

There are rehabilitation centres on Borneo such as the one at Sepilok where Orang-utan sightings are guaranteed. Sepilok, opened in 1964 and is funded by public contributions and a UK charity to look after orang-utans that have been orphaned by deforestation and the subsequent palm oil plantations or poachers. The infants are cared for in nursery and taught basic jungle skills such as swinging on branches etc, before being slowly released back into the wild. Over a period of years they are encouraged to venture to feeding platforms further into the jungle to eventually become comfortable enough to take up life in their natural habitat.

Visitors to the centre can witness daily feeding at the closest 1st platform at 10am or 3pm. As interesting as it was to see these amazing mammals up close swinging in the trees or feeding on the bananas or sugar cane in front of us we couldn't help feeling we had cheated a little. Yes they were free to roam in the wild and not confined to a cage but this was orchestrated and a little too easy. To really achieve our goal we needed to see them naturally surviving, without assistance, in their own habitat.

Searching for any opportunity available to us we took a trek into the jungle near the Sepilok grounds, but away from the feeding platforms. Our first foray into their environment couldn't have been any more determined. With the exception of attaching plant camouflage or donning green face paint we couldn't have tried any harder. We were the only people on the trail and with stops every 2 or 3 steps in virtual silence, we crept through the muddy 2.4km in a rapid 2hrs! Despite the stealth like movements we had to settle for sightings of just a macaque monkey, 1 small snake in a stream, a rather large bug, a couple of squirrels and a few mosquito bites! Still, I can't describe how exciting it was trekking through the dense jungle knowing that at any moment we may spot that most sought after animal. It is truly one of the most exciting things you can ever wish to do!

The next day on route to the Kinabatangan river where sightings are less rare, we made a stop off at the Gomantong caves. Many years ago I recall watching a TV programme about farming of birds nest saliva for the delicacy of Birds Nest soup. It materialised that the original limestone caves where farmers have risked life and limb to climb precarious ropes and bamboo ladders to extract the prize were very nearby. The Gomantong cave is an impressive 90 metres high, with a loud noise of swifts chirping on the ceiling above. Walking through the darkened cave on the boardwalk, it became apparent that the slippery floor is attributed to the years and years of bird excrement that has piled up. This combined with the dark and damp makes it a perfect environment for everyones favorite, the cockroach. Not just one or two either, the floor, handrail and walls were teaming in literally thousands of them. It wasn't dissimilar to the bug scene in 'The Temple of Doom' and important to keep moving at all times! The decision to change my flip flops and shorts for combats and boots proved to be one of my more inspired moments.

So with this intense smell still in our nasal cavities we took the 10 minute walk back to the car, questioning whether this cockroach squelching experience had been worth paying for. After our orang-utan spotting disappointment from the day before we can never have imagined what lay in wait for us around the very next corner. Hearing a loud rustling of vegetation above, too loud to be a squirrel we expected to see another monkey. A closer inspection revealed a long gangly auburn haired arm gripped around the tree trunk some 10 metres above....you can only imagine our excitement it was an Orang-utan and a large one too!

So there he was this 'Man of the Forest' alone in the tree happy to sit on a branch just above us. For 45 mins we stood transfixed on his every move which basically involved a couple of short body adjustments to peel strips of bark from the tree and put it into his mouth. He (we think) was clearly aware of our presence and took occasional glances in our direction but he appeared relaxed enough. This was confirmed when in rushing for our waterproofs at what we thought was the noise of impending rain on the trees, it was simply our new friend answering the call of nature. So, there we were, just the two of us and this magnificent animal sharing his home observing the most primitive of instincts to feed and survive. It was the most amazing of experiences and a moment we shall simply never forget!

After our chance encounter with this most fascinating mammal a passing guide commented on how lucky we were to see one in the wild...luck? maybe a little but I think determination and a lot of patience had a lot more to do with it. Still buzzing and with a skip in our step we continued along the boardwalk to the car knowing we had achieved another of our lifetime ambitions; a trend that is becoming somewhat of a daily occurrence, but none the less, totally mind blowing. With a riverboat trip next on the agenda and the pressure of a Orang-utan sighting completed, now that we have quite literally removed this large monkey from our backs, who knows what other amazing wildlife may be in store for tomorrow....