It certainly makes you realise how much of western culture is based around alcohol when you walk through a city centre and see no bars or off licences. What then, if like me you do enjoy the very occasional steady half- how do you survive in a dry country?

Due to it's small size Brunei is not far from the border in any direction and sensing this obvious market, Malaysia is very accommodating! It gives a whole new meaning to a booze cruise as this isn't just a jolly to get cheap booze, it's the primary way non Muslim people living in Brunei can get any booze at all.

Normally undertaken on Thursday nights (due to Friday being a day off) the booze run involves a 30 min drive west to the nearest border crossing point of Tendungan, a wait in line, and a couple of passport stamps. Before you can even say 'Goodbye Brunei' the road draws you into the purpose built alcohol selling complex. In essence it is an off licence with a few basic tables and chairs under a large shed ready and waiting for a steady flow of needy punters with empty cars and a healthy appetite to indulge. Being duty free it not only attracts those from across the border but also many locals from nearby villages. Regardless of where they are from, every single person there has 2 motives-
1) to have a beer
2) to pick up some cheap stuff to take back.

The Bruneian government is very aware of what takes place and places a limit of 12 small cans and 2 bottles of wine per person. All purchases must be signed for and correct paperwork obtained for customs, but in reality they appear to pay little attention to it. This whole exercise is a regular routine for some and with a minimum 48 hrs between border crossings, passports fill up very quickly for the very keen or possibly more appropriately very desperate...

In addition to land crossings there is the Malaysian island of Labuan just an hours ferry ride away. This not only provides access to even cheaper alcohol but also the other forbidden vice of gambling. With a mix of sleezy bars and grand casinos it is certainly a lads weekend waiting to happen. A group in front of us when arriving at immigration were certainly sporting very fully stamped passports. Unlike the lazy immigration officers in other places we have visited, this one was clearly accustomed to regular visitors. He was carefully finding an available corner and doing his best to ensure he maximised stamp space on every passport.

Ok maybe not ideal for youngsters like ourselves normally at home in any lively pub or club scene, but you may be surprised to hear that you aren't necessarily limited to the privacy of your own home in order to consume the prized goods. Some restaurants will allow you to bring your own, provided that you are dining in a private room...it certainly felt rebellious and rather taboo carefully opening a ring pull in a restaurant so as not to alert other diners.

There are also the more underground ways in which alcohol can be obtained but with this 'risk' to the seller the prices are heavily inflated. I am told a man referred to as 'the milkman' can be called on if required to deliver a crate of the amber nectar!

So after our first experience of a dry country our ferry sailed to the north of Borneo and Brunei slowly disappeared to the horizon. At this point we both vowed to give our liver a few days of necessary recovery before we return to local hospitality in the dry country of Brunei!...