What is your immediate thought when you see a picture of the iconic Taj Mahal? a pretty impressive white temple....right? I wonder how many of you knew it was in fact actually an elaborate tomb? It was news to me to as I read the lonely planet guide on the long taxi ride from Delhi!

When his 'favourite' wife, Mumtaz Mahal died in 1631 (giving birth to their 14th child) the Emperor Shah Jahan built the Taj in her memory. Legend has it that he was so heartbroken at her loss that he turned grey overnight! The whole project took 20,000 people and about 18 years to complete. He must have been fairly keen on her...Sally asked if I would do the same for her but I would argue my solo bit of DIY, the increasingly wobbly towel rail in the bathroom is a modern day equivalent!

Situated in the city of Agra, 200kms from Delhi, it was always going to be a long day there and back in a taxi but at the same time offered a chance to see more of this fascinating country outside of the capital. We had hoped once we had escaped the mess and madness of Delhi that we might see the India that so many people rave about. I can't say that actually happened but it was certainly an eye opener and at times a highly entertaining journey!

After seeing and walking through some pretty impressive filth and squaller in Delhi we were surprised to see this was just the tip of the iceberg...Forms of housing varied from a 2 story brick house, to various stilted shed type communes to a tarpaulin draped over a tree, as the road cut through one poverty ridden looking village after another. All of them appearing to have taken turns at borrowing the local dust cart and emptying the contents as they drive through the village. Seemingly in an attempt to be messier than the last as if they are all preparing for the India's worst kept village award!

The occasional stretches outside of the villages offered views across the dry sunbaked arable fields with glimpses of peacocks, monkeys running freely through the fields or vultures devouring what resembled a rotting cows carcass! Either side of the road offered the usual sights we have become accustomed to in Asia with people washing clothes or themselves, having a piddle or piling up dried out cow pats. There are also the strategically placed roadside 'services' offering beggars, child dancers, snake charmers or overpriced souvenirs and pepsi. Colourful roadside markets also present in every village selling all manor of fruit & veg, spices, curries, nuts and deep fried foods.

The road itself was free flowing in patches but upon reaching a village soon became heavily congested with all manor of beat up, bold tyre'd vehicle, with the free for all mentality in full effect. As with Delhi, 3 wheeler tuc tucs dominating the road, most of which were bulging with passengers- We actually counted 18 people either in, on or hanging on to one such vehicle. Mopeds rarely carrying less than 2 but in some cases 4 and not a helmet in sight! It appeared a futile task but one tuc tuc was even transporting large blocks of ice on the back seats in the 30 degree heat! Any thoughts of a quick nap soon being disrupted by sudden movements or jolts to avoid a motorbike, cycle rikshaw, horse/camel and cart or cow wandering aimlessly across the toll road!

Finally after 200 interesting kilometres the taxi pulled in to a car park complete with the normal allocation of hawkers and street performers so we knew we had arrived. In order to preserve the marble structure, no cars, tuc tucs or motorbikes are allowed within a kilometre of the Taj Mahal thus in my opinion making it the most enjoyable walk in India free from the noise of car or motorbike horns!

Having made it through the comprehensive security checks and into the open courtyard the hidden Taj Mahal awaits beyond the North Gate. The drive from Delhi could hardly have offered more of a contrast to the grandeur of this feat of marble architecture. 3 strategically placed waterways with perfectly crystal clear reflections, lead the way through the garden to the crisp clean white marble tomb which towers proudly above everything around it. The 4 giant surrounding pillars providing perfect symmetry, framing the central structure against the sky. It looks so elegant and clean, almost as if it has been painted on to a skyline canvas!

Inside the Taj is a stuffy large simple central room which holds the tombs of both Mumtaz Mahal when she died in 1631 and later joined by her husband when he passed away. Standing bare foot on the perfectly smooth marble floors looking up at the top of the giant tomb above it is impossible not to be impressed with the magnificence of the Taj Mahal.

Having already ticked off the Great Wall of China, The Terra-cotta Warriors and Mount Everest in the last 5 weeks we would inevitably draw comparisons. I'm no architect but given the year it was built and it's unique crisp white shiny appearance it is understandable how it is labelled as one of the 'wonders of the world' but for me it doesn't quite have the same appeal as the Great Wall or Mt Everest as it is quite simply a stunning big building.

Although Delhi wasn't as interesting as we had expected it has certainly given us a fascinating insight into Indian life and culture. We hoped the Taj Mahal would restore some excitement and it certainly didn't disappoint- a spectacular sight it may be but for me the drive there was actually even more fascinating than the Taj itself.

Although not one of the places we have always wanted to visit we are glad to have fitted India into our trip. I must admit we were very surprised by the evident poverty and mess on the streets of the Capital of this so called 'emerging world power'. Although this is only a very personal opinion based on a very narrow view of the country to me it is evident that India is still very much in the 3rd world!

After returning from the Taj 14 hrs after leaving Delhi, we had to go straight to the airport to get a night flight to Thailand. A week at my mate PJs in Bangkok before Sally's brother arrives and the Beaches of Koh Phi Phi beckon....after a tough but fantastic 5 weeks a chance to kickback and enjoy some sunshine and a few beers...superb!