The long straight quiet, 350km road, through barren desert scrub from El Calafate in Argentina, to the Chilean Border isn't the most picturesque, but it couldn't be more of a contrast to the scenery that greets you soon after entering Chile. Not long after the 'road to nowhere' passes through the isolated 2 man border outpost of Argentina, you find yourself absorbed by the magical lost kingdom of the Torres Del Paine National Park.

The National Park in Chilean Patagonia is a 242k hectare UNESCO reserve. Every turn of the park's twisty, bumpy road, reveals an equally stunning image of unspoilt wilderness. Entering from the North East gate the South road skirts the large serene lakes of Nordenskjold and Pehoe. As the light changes, the lakes transform between vivid shades of blue, green and turquoise, with the tranquil waters providing a smooth reflective canvas on which to portray images of the spectacular mountains. Weather is of paramount importance in enjoying this area and fortunately the rain stayed away. On the occasions when cloud did drift in, it was high, allowing clear views of the mountains.

The Cordillera del Paine range of mountains, impressively dominates the skyline from it's central position and is visible throughout the park. The range contains 15 peaks higher than 2000m with the highest peak of Cerro Paine Grande at approximately 3,000m. The aptly named Central, North & South peaks form the distinctive Towers of Paine. Rising well above the tree line these 3 giant jagged monoliths are magma formations that have remained, after everything else around them has eroded away. Threaded in the valleys between the high mountain peaks, the snow covered glaciers add a year round picturesque, glowing, whiteness to the national park.

By far the most impressive glacier within the park is not on the mountain but instead sits in the water at the far end of Lago Grey. Accessible only by boat it is a stunning representation of mother natures effect on this planet. The meringue like peaks of the 30 metre high ice wall glows an enchanting transparent blue, against the grey waters of the aptly named lake. East of the glacier, the steep slopes of the Cordillera del Paine range rise steeply away from the lake, where the grey waters are littered with varying sized icebergs. Having broken free, they float across the lake for days, before finally melting.

Even with the absence of a David Attenborough voiceover, a drive through the park can offer a very real wildlife experience. A roadside encounter presented an opportunity to witness Patagonian grey foxes feeding on a sheep's carcass. Perched on fenceposts overlooking the dinner table, Vultures waited patiently for their opportunity to tuck in to the lamb delicacy. With appetite satisfied, the fox retreated to clean it's blood stained face which paved the way for the Vultures to swoop in. One by one they teared strips of the rare flesh with their sharp pointed beaks, whilst others looked on. The park is home to 104 other species of birds including numerous birds of prey and the talismanic 'Condor'. Easy to spot due to it's huge wingspan, white banded neck and red head, the sight of the mighty bird soaring effortlessly on the mountain thermals is gracefulness personified.

In addition to the regular bird and fox sightings, it is impossible to go far without seeing emu like 'Rheas' pecking about by the side of the road, or without finding the road impassible due to herds of 'Guanacos'. Guanacos are fascinating creatures of the dromedary family with long legs, long bendy necks and pointy ears. Unfortunately for them they aren't at the top of the food chain, instead being a favourite prey for Pumas that hide cleverly in the park. Guanacos are normally seen in large herds but occasionally one will be spotted alone. We later found out that this might be due to being injured by a Puma and as a damaged animal, sadly they are seen as a danger to the herd and left alone until they recover.

Far from nearby towns or civilisation, there are plenty of campsites, lodges or cabin accommodations within the park. Even our basic riverside cabin delivered fresh air, glorious views of the central mountain range. With horses roaming the grassy plateau near the river, twilight strolls or a relaxed beer on the cabin decking provided the most idyllic of countryside retreats.

The roads surrounding and within the national park consist of rough, dusty, gravel called Ripio. With a distance of 60km from the North to South entrance we had read that a 4x4 vehicle was recommended. It would no doubt have been more comfortable, but given the additional expense it is a little unnecessary. With a little tolerance of the bone shaking we managed to travel at speeds of 50-70km/h in a normal car. With photo opportunities located around virtually every corner, we wouldn't have wanted to go much faster anyway. Torres Del Paine is the kind of place you don't want to leave but after 2 days of the bumpy roads, it was in some ways a relief to return to the long, dull, concrete roads of Argentina.

This dramatic combination of mountains, lakes, forests, glaciers and wildlife creates a landscape of unique beauty. Not for the first time, we found ourselves revisiting the already overused letters 'W' 'O' followed by another 'W' as we gazed transfixed at this most beautiful of places on earth. Miles from anywhere at the base of South America, the untouched Patagonian wilderness is as beautiful a place as you could ever hope to visit.....and you must ensure you do visit!