Valentines day, not only took us back up into thinner air but the 14th February also coincided with entering the 14th country on our trip...Argentina! Our comfortable double decker bus left Santiago at 7.30am bound for Mendoza in Argentina, some 350 km away. Not overly far, but it would take the best part of the day, as there was a small matter of the Andes mountains standing in the way!

I remember the classic film 'Alive' based on a true story about a rugby team who's plane crashed in the Andes and they had to survive for months eating the meat of their dead teammates. In the film, Conessa and Nando breach the Andes and escape the mountain to the green valleys of Chile. On the evidence we had seen upon leaving Santiago, Chile was more sandy coloured barren desert than green.

As we headed north, the foothills of the Andes showed equally little prospect of nurturing life. Only scrub and wild west style cactus seemingly able to survive in this dry desolate land. We then reached the farming town of Los Andes and the road turned directly towards the mountains. Out of nowhere a green valley with trees, a river and signs of life appeared. Here they were, the until now mythical green valleys of Chile!
The road followed this tree filled valley for 35 km before we reached the town of Rio Blanco.

Although already at an altitude of 1,370 metres Rio Blanco signified the start of the serious climb. We continued to follow the green valley, dwarfed by the huge mountains of rock towering all around us. Snow covered peaks poked out at regular intervals, high above the scree and loose rubble littered barren slopes.

The road then showed it's teeth and 29 hairpin bends appeared, with lorries weaving their way up the winding roads to the top of the valley ahead. It was time to leave behind the green valleys and the rocky desolate scrubland returned. The zig zagging ascent offered spectacular views of the valley and hairpins below against the perfect blue sky. Once again we had chosen a good day for it, with only whispy clouds hugging the tallest mountain peaks.

We climbed quickly up the steep roads and soon reached the border town of Portillo at 3000m and the highest point of the road. The road then plateaued and ski lifts were evident all around, but it is summer and snow which can close the border crossing and roads, was only evident on on the heady heights of the tallest peaks.

The Chilean border crossing is immediately before the 4km Christ the Redeemer Tunnel. A 3 metre high statue of Christ was built on the Argentinian side in 1904 to settle a dispute over the land. Unfortunately we were unable to see this from the bus and the driver wasn't going to wait around for tourist snaps. We may have missed the statue but we didn't miss the snow capped peak of Mt Aconcagua sitting high amongst the clouds. At 6,959 metres it is the highest point in the Americas.

Rather strangely it was then a further 5km before we reached the Argentinian border point. A large tin shed 3000m high in the Andes mountains. We recall saying the Tibet-Nepal valley border crossing must be one of the most stunning in the world. Too close to call but it certainly has a rival here!

Fortunately the bus passenger queue only contained the 40 or so people off our bus. Efficiencies we weren't used to on this trip were evident where rather than having to exit the bus twice, immigration officers from both sides were present on the Argentinean side and vice versa on the Chilean. The driver had already collected some loose pesos as a tip for the baggage man at the border to save us all unloading our bags, so 2 more stamps in our quickly filling up passports and we were on our way again.

As soon as we re-boarded the bus we began the descent towards our destination of the wine region of Mendoza, a further 200 km away. Perhaps as a welcome to Argentina or more likely that it was 12pm, the drivers mate handed out free sandwiches and a glass of coke. Simple offerings but pure luxury in comparison to earlier bus journeys across Asia!

The landscape around us again transformed, with the same rocky mountains now leading to a sandy canyon below. Not quite the Grand Canyon but a mini version impressively carving it's way through valley ahead. As we dropped lower and lower it resembled the kind of lunar landscape of Tattooine, home to Luke Skywalker.

The desolate landscape continued as we dropped further into the valley until we reached the village of Uspallata, and from no where, the green valley reappeared. A bewildering isolated ecosystem, existing at the foot of the Andes where vegetation was lush and horses roamed freely in fields, against a spectacular backdrop of the barren rocky Andes mountains.

We followed the river as the green valley once again gave way to the cactus and scrub filled flat desert plateau. The mountains appearance changed from a dull sand colour to a variegated appearance of reds, browns, and greys, coloured by mineral deposits. Then as we were about to relax, one last breath taking sight came into view. The river we had been following flowed into a beautiful aqua coloured lake nestled in the heart of the plateau. The mountains then turned back into mere hills and signs of green life returned on the plateau wilderness. Finally, could I allow myself to rest my eyes for a few minutes? No chance, literally a few minutes later the road ran through acre upon acre of vineyards, a clear indication that we had reached the famous wine growing region of Argentina, Mendoza.

Initial evidence suggests Argentina is not going to be short of stunning scenery and with the city of Buenos Aires, followed by the Southern glacial wilderness of Patagonia on the itinerary, it certainly promises to be a sensational next 2-3 weeks!

Valentines day 2011 will not be remembered for cards, flowers or romantic dinners but as a day we shared, breaching the Andes and entering Argentina in spectacular style. Then again, maybe we will also share a bottle of Argentinean red over dinner later to celebrate.....