Feeling more grounded in our Cuba-life, we prepared to move from Havana to Vinales, a small town in the Pinar del Rio province. As we waited in anticipation for the taxi we had arranged outside the bus station the day prior, time ticked away and, with allowance for Cuban time, after two hours we assumed the guy was not going to show up.

Being peak tourist season, we were fearful we would not get a bus ticket on the day of. With our luggage in tow and me with a crutch, Jim lined up one place at the bus station and was told to go 'over there'. He lined up 'over there' and the lady exclaimed loudly, "no tickets now!". Backing away, he hovered near the ticket booth perplexed about what to do next.

Other tourists started lining up so not wanting to be further back in the line, Jim lined up again and the woman bossily told everyone to sit down. On this went until, at 11:00am, we bought what we thought were tickets for a 2:00pm bus. When Jim double checked with a bus waiting outside, he discovered that even though it was only 11:30, that bus was going to our destination. We got the last 2 seats.

As with many foreign countries, just when we feel we are getting the hang of it, BAM!, we are reminded we are visitors who haven’t much of a clue. Thankfully, in Cuba we had the guidance and generous assistance of Susana, a ‘broker’ of casas. She was invaluable in helping us before we arrived in Cuba and while we were there.

In Vinales, and as in other places, Susana would give us the name and location of our casa. Upon arrival, sometimes the casa owners would, for a variety of reasons, have negotiated with a relative or neighbour for us to stay with them for part or all of the time. Regardless of these switches, our experience with each family was positive; these Cuban folk are a good people. We have never felt safer or treated with such open arms as we were here.

In a casa across the street from the one we booked, we got our luggage settled into our room and forged out into the highly touristy streets of this small sweet town nestled amongst the rolling hills and tobacco fields of western Cuba. The inundation of tourists swarming the streets like an ant hill were a mismatch for this seemingly innocent town in such a peaceful spot.

We ate an early dinner that included a nicely sized serving of vegetables (something that has eluded us so far). While returning to our casa Jim called out in awe, "is that Tony!?" We know at least three Tonys so my eyes were scanning for someone who looked like any one of the three. Before I could locate a familiar 'Tony', I heard our organic farmer nephew from Ontario shout “Jim Neale!”. His partner Corry screamed out in recognition and astonishment. Hugging each other with abandon, we laughed and squealed at the chances of this meetup.

The last time we saw Tony and Corry was at the family cottage two years ago, a time when all family members are vying for moments with each other, making most contact somewhat fleeting. During our two days in Vinales, we enjoyed meals together and time conversing on a wide range of topics from farming practices to Cuban politics over, for example, mojitos by candlelight in an outdoor bar or a country-style dinner on a wooden deck overlooking the town at the Balcon del Valle. The wild thing is, we had a similar chance meeting with his brother and family in Quebec City just over a year ago.

Vinales was well worth the effort it took to get there with opportunities to explore the hills and chat with tobacco farmers, drive to the shore to relish in the rural life of Cubans on the way and soak in the sun, fine sand and turquoise sea. Find a casa terrace on the roof or patio tucked away from the bustle and you'll feel like you've discovered true tranquility and silencio.

All of Jim' images from Vinales can be seen in higher resolution here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jimneale/ sets/72157666736593685