Opted for sleeper class on the day train from Goa to Hospet. Of the 5 classes this is the second lowest. Very pleased we chose this as got to experience real indian transport. Every 5 mins someone would offer to sell you random food and drinks. Every station stop children and women would get aboard begging. The train would still be moving fairly quickly when people would calmly jump out and into the train. Transvestites would seek men who were sleeping and wake them up abruptly by clapping their hands in their face and demand money to go away. This was much more exciting and insightful than taking the luxury option.

Got rickshaw into Hampi, which was quite a squeeze. Stayed in the first hotel we found, mainly because it had wifi, something our western ways can not allow us to live without, also necessary when you've got a travel blog to write.

Hampi is a city that was constructed between 700 and 800 years ago. It was the central hindu city for the southern part of India at the time. Today it is a surreal assortment of massive volcanic boulders, ancient temples, bazarres and the most impressive architecture made out of granite and still in surprisingly good condition. It is also surprisingly open to the public. You can just turn up at any time and just wander around these granite structures anytime night or day. If this was back home it would be guarded 247 and you'd probably need hard hats to walk round it. The more recently constructed local town is under threat by the gov't who have began demolishing their houses (which were built illegally) to make the old ruins more protected for preservation purposes. A few days before we got there some holiday huts had been bulldozed. Our hotel was due to be demolished in the next couple of years. Aswell as the incredible ruins is a large population of monkeys (and sloth bears, which luckily we did not encounter.) and cows are everywhere - outside your restaurant, or shop, or hotel. we took our food scraps to them once (they love naan bread).

As it is a holy place (with over 2000 temples), there is a ban on meat and alcohol. This withdrawal did cause us some problems with night sweats, DTs and hallucinations. However, a detox and some seriously healthy eating was welcomed and probably needed and its so cheap here its amazing. one london burger=30 hampi ( vegi) burgers.

Next few days were spent walking and cycling round these awe inspiring ruins. By far this has been our favourite stop so far, as I cant imagine there is anywhere else in the world that allows you to live among such a vast and ancient world heritage site. Though it is very sad the locals are losing their homes, I feel it is what's necessary to preserve this wonder. Just really glad we got to experience it before it's access becomes restricted. Loved Hampi! next stop Bangalore.